famaya26 Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Ok guys tomorrow I'm changing the rear brake pads. I'm planning on replacing y rotors next year around late Feb - early March. If I replace the brakes should I get the rotors resurfaced. I'm on a tight budget and don't want to go around spending money I don't need to spend. Pads are just worn out, prior owner had them installed in 2010. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danger Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 How many miles are on the rotors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee07 Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Some people will disagree but I never resurfaced my rotors when putting new pads and it brakes just fine, no vibration or anything, nice and smooth like a brand new car. If the rotors are thick enough and still smooth, just put the new pads in and call it done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 If the rotors are thick enough and still smooth You must not be too harsh on brakes if this were the case. In general, this is a turbodog'd recommendation. It is highly recommended to turn rotors when you put new pads on. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 You must not be too harsh on brakes if this were the case. In general, this is a turbodog'd recommendation. It is highly recommended to turn rotors when you put new pads on. This^^^ I put new pads on and the vibrations were still present the problem is turning rotors is almost as expensive as new basic ones from your local parts store. For my 2.5i new blank rotors are $36 to turn them cost $30 per Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 If they're not warped or scored real badly there's no need to turn them. You do want to check them with caliper to make sure they're still thick enough to use. You can sand them with sandpaper a bit to help new pads bed in better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Like what your seeing here for answers, it's a judgment call. I have done it both ways. Worst thing is you may have to take them off and have them turned. The proper way is to have them turned when you install new pads. Make sure you use anti-seize compound on the nuts and bolts. I have found it helps to put anti-seize and 8mmx1.25 bolts before you put them in the rotors to back them off the hub. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted July 17, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted July 17, 2012 Ok guys tomorrow I'm changing the rear brake pads. I'm planning on replacing y rotors next year around late Feb - early March. If I replace the brakes should I get the rotors resurfaced. I'm on a tight budget and don't want to go around spending money I don't need to spend. Pads are just worn out, prior owner had them installed in 2010. dude, your'e good. If I was on a tight budget, I'd do the same thing you are doing. If not, I'd always replace rotors and pads together. I'm doing a full brake job soon on my car and my girlfriends accord. How many miles did you get out of your rears? I have 60k on mine right now. "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted July 17, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted July 17, 2012 I have found it helps to put anti-seize and 8mmx1.25 bolts before you put them in the rotors to back them off the hub. ah man, I wish I did that "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 ah man, I wish I did that That's because your young and haven't learned the hard way...I'm full of ideas to make my life easier. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 I had new rotors and pads put in shortly after I got my car... Had about 39K miles then. Used OEM Subaru blanks and Hawk HPS on all 4 corners. I replaced them again at about the 62K mile mark, and I only did the pads since I had no vibration issues or scoring on the rotors. I replaced them with Hawk HPS. I rebedded them in, and called it a day. I'm at about 70K now and things are still running great. I personally think this is the right way to go about things, although resurfacing the rotors or replacing them completely isn't wrong... it's just more expensive and unnecessary if your rotors are fine and you do the bed in procedure correctly. It's important when switching pads to something different (i.e. going from OEM Subaru Hitachi brand crap to Hawk HPS) to re-bed in the new pads because you need to get the transfer layer onto the rotors. I've heard that HP+ and HPS are similiar enough to each other though that it doesn't require a re-bed when switching back and forth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 I replaced the Hawk HPS (F/R) with OEM before this latest trip. Had ~60K on them. Fronts were at 60%, Rears were at 10%. Did not turn the rotors (130K on them) as they were all smooth and vibration free before the re-install. had plenty of rotor left if I do need to turn them. Rebedded the new pads, all is good and tight. Feel like the rears are definitely on-point now. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 You put stock pads back on after HPS? Dear God....why?? How did you manage to make your HPS last 60k? I got something like 20k out of my set at best and I don't track or autocross... But I do drive hard in NYC...hmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Because I had a trip coming up and I had a new F/R set in the parts locker and no time to get a new set of HPS. Definitely feel/tell the difference in initial bite, but okay otherwise. Will go back to HPS And to your second question: 5MT baby - matched revs, engine braking, and taking das foot off the brake pedal as soon as I come to a full, complete stop, use the parking brake to hold against drifting. I've learned over the years that pad deposition from hot, stopped brakes wears out pads pretty fast. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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