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How to: Injector install / Replacement (With Pics!)


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Lightly SuperLube the injector barrel (where the injector resides) and SuperLube on the injector O-rings. Insert with a left-right twisting motion, should pop right in.

 

I'm getting ready to upgrade my to DW850s, so will probably find an old SAE socket that fits and grind-out the connection side so I have a sold "push" device as well.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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  • 5 weeks later...

Question for anyone who's done this.

Cylinders 1 and 2 seem naturally easiest to do since there's more room.

 

Any tips for the removal of 3 and 4?

I have to do this procedure soon and looked over the rear ones and it's obvious that there's less room.

 

Cylinder 3: Obviously you have to move the coolant tank out of the way, no big deal.

Cylinder 4: There's a bunch of hoses in the way...I guess just push them aside? It looks tight on space on that side.

 

Also, how long does it take the engine to die when the fuse is pulled? I want to relieve pressure with the car in the garage but I don't want an excessive amount of fumes in there either.

Edited by Joon525
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I did cylinder 4 once. As you said, it is just a matter of pushing anything that is in the way. But I recall that I did not take anything apart.

 

As for how long it'd take for the engine to die, I'd say about 10 sec or something? It does not take long really. Just crack open the garage when the car is on.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Something I found useful for getting the new injectors back into the holes was using a washer similar size as the bracket, (rubber or metal will work) placing it under the bracket and working the bracket back on with the torx screw. This way gives even pressure all around and reduces the risk damaging the injector. I also found grease instead of motor oil more effective on the o-rings for providing just enough lubrication to get the injectors the rest of the way.
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I always use SuperLube on the O-rings and lightly coat the bowls with SL too before installing the injectors.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Took me about 30 mins to do the #3 injector and the #3 coil. That's to tear it down and put it back together. Not bad I thought. Your walk-through really helped. Turned out the coil was arcing were base of the boot and the coilpack.

Muchas gracias again!

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  • 9 months later...
  • 1 year later...

This was very useful. Helps give some confidence to those of us that aren't too familiar with mechanics.

 

 

One question, I have put all my injectors back in. Do I need to prime or do something to the coolant tank to remove air from in there. I assume not but just wanted to check.

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  • 9 months later...

It's May 2019, jeez, what are people doing still reading this?

Oh, that's right, I just used it this morning to replace my fuel injectors!

Thanks a million, you made it much easier!:)

 

150k miles and 10 years on Witchunter-modified side feeds (plus 30k stock) and at this point I don't want to put enough money into the car to switch to top-feeds, pay for a whole new tune etc etc. If the Deatschwerks last a couple more years until I sell or donate it, I'll be happy.

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  • 4 years later...

@ibr_adam09 Thank you so much for putting this together! It's been a few years, but some of us are still driving our beloved LGT MT Wagons. The descriptions of tools for removing the injectors were also great, but I happened to have one of these in my tool box and it was absolutely the perfect tool for grabbing the injectors by the side holes for removal: 

Harbor freight item 37909, long reach hose grip pliers. Best $14.99 you'll spend.

Long Reach Hose Grip Pliers

20231029_164323.jpg

  • Thanks 1
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