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subysouth

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Everything posted by subysouth

  1. I hate to say it but it really seems like if you press they do it - if you don't they don't. Good luck with it. ss
  2. Subaru OEM add-on alarm for 95-99 Legacys. Requires car to have OEM keyless entry as standard or also added. $45 shipped to the Cont48 ss
  3. Up for sale is a 1st gen single DIN pocket with spring cover. I used this pocket below a single DIN unit as well in my 2nd gen Legacy. Subaru seems to like to hold onto design elements. I have heard of these installed in WRXs as well. $20 shipped to the Cont48 others please ask for shipping. Thanks ss
  4. Gonna try to make sense of this as best I can based on memory. I have owned 6 subies so bear with me plz and I apologize ahead of time if I misstep. I may not know what it is exactly so ship at your own risk if it is not clearly identified. Please see the pics. Most of these are going to be second gen parts - engine seals gaskets etc that were left over from a larger full 2.5L NA engine gasket kit. 2nd gen weird hollow bumper bolt/nut has coarse almost looks like wood screw threads on the outside with a machine screw threaded center. Holds foglight assembly IIRC. 2nd gen clutch install tool. There is a Crutchfield branded 70-8901 Metra radio wiring harness adapter. It fits 1993-2013 Subarus(some Saab and Suzukis too.) Hope they help somebody. ss
  5. The two outside tails - red/amber. Harnesses were tapped for trailer light harness but were fully functional when removed. Your harness should be PnP. Used but in very good shape. Minor scratches - no cracks. $25 + shipping/PP fee. I have the matching center section sorta concerned on the shipping cost there but if anyone has an interest I will unbox it for a pic as well. Thanks for looking. ss
  6. On my to do list was to put a period at the end of my version of this topic. Subaru warrantied the brake lines after a bit of spirited discussion. I would advise any of you facing a similar issue to avail yourself of the following linked data. https://subaru.oemdtc.com/62/wqk-47-brake-line-corrosion-2005-2014-subaru/2 Short version - if the lines fail later at an area deemed "OK" in the recall inspection Subaru seems inclined to warranty the issue. If you look at their TSB their included pic is the specific location my lines failed. If they agree to replace one line as it states in the TSB they replace them all. Unfortunately near simultaneous to all this we found a 100% leak down failure at cylinder 2 on my OB. I sold the car to a young man anxious for a project. I have pulled and rebuilt three Subaru engines in my shop over the years but my shop and more importantly time is currently otherwise occupied. ss
  7. The smart money saying its already making 350 and Audi nerfs their numbers to save the rep of the 4.2 expensive option engine. It should make 400 easy with mods and as important plenty of torques(sic Clarkson.) it handily outruns the 4.2 V8 stock. ss
  8. So with all those options there in Europe - if you weren't buying a Subaru what wagon would you buy? Audi A6 Avant of some variant is my favorite 2nd choice here - what about there? Audi stopped bringing the A6 Avant here several years ago so a new one is a nonstarter. I have a hunted a used 09+ A6 with the 3.0TFSI off and on for years. Good ones something something hen's teeth. ss
  9. Yea no biggie, I was on the Buick but I understand your point. The list of cool rides we don't get here is so infuriating sometimes I avoid the topic. Yea in the 05-09 Legacys the auto was not a really good option IMO but autos are getting better(more gears quicker shifting,) don't know about the one in the Buick but again just happy it exists as a wagon option. The wife avoids driving the manual anyway - so an auto would help the family overall in certain ways. I like the size, the engine and the fact it is pretty much a wagon. Buick dealer is 7 minutes away. The Subaru and Audi dealers - over and hour away. ss
  10. If we were wishing yea I could build you a list of wagons we can't get here that I would take over the Buick/Opel. Those are all just fantasy unless you want to wait out the grey market import clause. If you are a wagon junkie(I am,) you will go to the sketchiest neighborhood to get your fix. We have a handful of legit wagon choices here in the US of one of the most popular platforms elsewhere in the world. Anybody know why? Yea some studies have be done I hear. ss
  11. Uh yea - check the stats: 2.0L(the "perfect" displacement for a four) Ecotec, AWD as close to a real sport wagon we will likely get from Buick. There is of course a better version they won't bring here. Technically I should call it an Opel probably. Lowish and long, more capacity than an Outback thank to the length. Length does not hurt mileage. The CoG is prolly 4 inches higher than the OB but an inline four is a f**k all of a lot easier to work on every day of the week. I will make it turn rest assured even at 4K+ lbs. It's in my opinion a well-engineered piece. And that's no joke. ss
  12. I didn't think you were questioning my credentials(I question my credentials btw - I have important looking papers with my name on it but I do really stupid stuff daily) and wasn't tooting my horn just seguing into the fact that I had a straight talk with a tech in the garage outside the service manager presence. Coupla minutes is all it takes to see where each other are and I think I got as straight an answer as was possible given the circumstances. He knows I take car of my car personally. It has been subtly modified from the outside but he obvious caught the changes from the underside. He likes my coilovers for instance. Yea I have a pic of the block if I can find it - barely rusted at all. How does a distribution block rupture anyway? ss
  13. I wish I could but I am 99.9% sure it is at the top of the line pictured right there and thusly impossible to get a pic of with the line on the car. The first line of disinformation I got at the dealership was the problem was at the distribution block and that was all that was covered in the recall. Not only is that fundamentally illogical, that is not what the recall says. I think these lines are failing in those gaps in the black coating at these plastic looms, there are 2 locations in the rear lines. For clarity, other than the head machine work, I rebuilt the engine in my 1997 Legacy GT in my shed. I have been on the forums as far back as i-club - pre-NASIOC. I am not as active now - life and all but I am a Subaru old timer. I wrote a Subaru brake tech article that was published as far away as Japan(that netted a valuable friend there and allowed me to start buying parts direct from Japan) and got me props from DBA Brakes directly. Point being, I have more than a passing understanding of cars generally and how they work as pretty much all of us do here. But the Subaru dealer started the same exact place most dealers start when trying to avoid responsibility - BS. Again I guess I expected more. It may be that the car dealer part overcomes the quality car manufacturer part. IDK ss
  14. Yea that's what I am saying, after the dealer "checked" my car they were complimenting me on how great the underside looked given the origin state. My car was presented as a single female owner garage kept blah blah. I drank the koolaid and had it shipped in and it looked exactly as stated. It was indeed a single female owner always dealer serviced - they pulled the full maintenance logs at the local dealership. She paid her dues believe me. There is absolutely minimal rust under the car. That's why I am calling garbage on the brake line material. If you talk the talk with the tech guys in the garage they know it's garbage. They know Subaru knows it is garbage. The straight talk is Subaru is in damage control mode - not honest owning up mode. And that is fine - we will wait and see how it pans out and I will vote with my wallet next go round. I have pitched these cars to friends and family on engineering and quality. I am fully responsible for at least four purchases beyond my own 5 purchases. I can reverse that position tomorrow and explain why. ss
  15. I hear you again I just expected Subaru to be above that cut line of manufacturers using impervious brake lines. I am pretty sure the wife's Honda has them. I am going to start making a list. I stand by what I said though, if Subaru does not repair it I am done with them. There are too many good cars out there now. I am seriously considering replacing this with a Buick. Yea I just said that. I figured you guys might benefit from a pic of my situation. If you line looks like this - assume if it working now it won't be in short order. And trust me you have to get your camera seriously buried up in the car to see this. That crenulation on the line is warning enough, I have basically no flagrant rust on the line or the underbody itself. I would consider the rust on even a 10 year old southern only car minor - for the NE I would view it as below minor - and yet my rear brake line burst. ss Yea those Dodge guys are well - Dodge guys. I think the uber truck would be F250 chassis with a Cummins I6 with an Allison behind. I personally gave up on the diesels - too much maintenance for my use purposes. I have the 6.2L gas motor in my current truck and I love it.
  16. Yea but figure if you are washing it once a week you are suppressing the the damage from the salted roads what 10% overall? Not much of a plan IMO again - Subaru knows there is salt on the roads - they galvalume the unibody, the brake lines are equally as immovable and hard to service. Just use a better material or if you chose a crap material to save a penny own up to it when it doesn't work out. The Ford Chevy debate could go on forever. I don't think Ford owners think Chevy drivers are gay so much as suffering from ahem shortcomings. GM trucks are considered poser trucks around here - you know like dude is saying "it's a real truck I swear - the dealer told me so." If you ever want to crawl under a modern F250+ you might be shocked. These trucks are built like tanks. The 150 and 250+ series trucks are worlds apart as well. The good ole days are right now I think. If you are saying you have a 1987 Chevy with spotless original brake lines that is truly impressive. That vehicle would be a pile of rust here, and based on what you are saying worse there. And on that point I should say vehicles rust here quite a bit. As a crow flies I am about 1.3 miles to the Gulf of Mexico, a big ole bowl of salt water. I lived on Pensacola Beach for several years, aluminum wheels look like a bowl of flour in about a year there. Beyond that we regularly enjoy about 1000% humidity and numerous 90+ degree days. All super encouraging for rust. I am stunned when I go to the Knoxville area and see a 1980s Ford Granada just driving around totally unrestored - just a daily driver. Here that car would be a long forgotten pile of rust. Low humidity up there I am told. ss
  17. Yea true that too, off course those are really roads too, just not paved roads. ss
  18. So you might ask why does a person on the MS Gulf coast have a Subie. It corners really well in the torrential rain we see here real regularly and we have significant extended family near Knoxville mountain country. Win-win. Its the Swiss army knife of cars, especially the wagons. You can fit a 50 gallon water heater in the box in the back. Yea I have done it. Oh yea and that driving skill in torrential rain netter me a careless driving ticket a year or so ago. Had to look that one up. Had the reckless one before. I'm saving money for that surgery tho. ss
  19. Yea when I say one of the best snow and ice vehicles I mean snowy and icy roads. IIRC the recipe for success there is moderate ground clearance, light weight, low CoG and awd/4wd. It's a joke of a mud truck if that's what you mean tho - truly. ss
  20. Yea I guess opinions are varied here but I guess I would expect Subaru(one of the best cars made for the snow and ice - full stop) would have prepared the car for the salt that often comes with snow and ice. There are all sorts of metals that completely ignore salt. If they are building cars with buried systems that only hope to last past the warranty period - I guess I need to pick another manufacturer. This is my 5th Subaru but if they do not make this right - it will be the last. I have had two F250s(I daily drive an F250) that came used 7-10 years old from salt states without a speck of rust on the brake lines. This idea that an owner should be out in the driveway jacking their car up in the winter and washing salt out from under their car is unrealistic to me. Maybe next spring but it aint happening in the months of dead cold winter. This recurring GM truck analogy isn't hitting home with me. If you like GM trucks you are unlikely to want to hear my opinion of them. I expect better out of Subaru. Maybe that is turning out to be an unrealistic expectation. ss
  21. And when I say the line burst I mean the pedal dropped to the floor and I got zero brake. Pumped - dropped - zero brake out of the pedal. You could feel the piston hitting the end of travel in the MC in the pedal. I brought the car down from speed after swerving into the empty lane and later nursed it home on the hand brake. The MC was empty when I got it home to inspect it. I can not see the burst line directly but it appears the top of the line is what broke open probably pretty impressively based on how quickly it got rid of the fluid. It showered the underside of the car with fluid in that area. ss
  22. To clarify I had a rear line burst in traffic at speed. I'll let you do the math there and I can without a doubt say I was lucky there was an open lane to put the wagon into otherwise repairing the lines would not be a concern. My car spent its first six years in CT before coming here. It was inspected here 2 years back and the dealer said it was fine. I do not believe the longevity of the lines is consistent with a reasonable expectation of lifespan. 60% of Subaru's sales are made right here in the US. My car was built in the US. The US has been salting the roads for decades. Do the math. I have heard copper mentioned here twice. Funny story - way back in my youth I had collected enough funds to secure a 1984 200SX Turbo. I burned the first turbo down in about 9 months. It cost about $1000 USD circa 1990 to repair. That got my attention and it turns out there was a design flaw in the oil feed line to the turbo - it ran up and over the engine at the firewall and would drain itself every time you shut down the car, so the torbo would start "dry." I cut the oem line out - flanged about $2 worth of copper tubing from Home Depot and routed it low and under the engine and problem solved. I loved that car - so light. No electronic nannies. It talked to you if you were feeling lonely. ss
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