Dbl_D718 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 I've noticed recently that I can't get into 4th gear without it grinding if I'm driving spiritedly. Of course if I'm driving like that, I pull it into gear pretty hard/fast, so it usually engages after a quick grind, but it doesn't happen on any other changes...only into 4th. Does this mean the syncros are going/already bad? What kind of shop time would I be looking at to have the dealer replace/repair? I have an extended warranty on the car...how likely would they be to deny coverage if I didn't remove my bolt-ons before asking for the repair, do you think? Seems like it's more of a wear part than being damaged by stage 2.5 power levels. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 Also, I was already planning to change the fluid since it's due. Would a fluid change help or should I wait until the problem is repaired so I don't have to pay for fluid twice? MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 I'd think about putting the oem DP and TMIC back on. Then take in and see what the dealer say's. I'm not thinking the fluid is going to help. Have you been doing the 30,000 mile tranny fluid changes ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 The fluid was changed about 40k miles ago before I bought the car; the car has 72k on it now. I found a respected import/performance shop in town who agrees that my level of power mods shouldn't wear out the syncros prematurely, so they won't report the mods to the warranty provider. They're going to look at it next week. Does the transmission have to come out for this repair? MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 The fluid was changed about 40k miles ago before I bought the car; the car has 72k on it now. I found a respected import/performance shop in town who agrees that my level of power mods shouldn't wear out the syncros prematurely, so they won't report the mods to the warranty provider. They're going to look at it next week. Does the transmission have to come out for this repair? Yes, you also should replace the 75w-90 every 30,000 miles. Some like to use 3qt Redline lightweight shockproof and the rest Motul 300. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 Fluid will be changed either during the repair, or as soon as they tell me the trans isn't coming out. But assuming they pull the trans to repair it...is there anything extra I should have done while it's out? Maybe just do all the syncros? If one's bad, maybe they're all worn? I might ask what they'd charge extra to do the clutch/flywheel too. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Yes, what people don't understand is there are some things that are nessary and smart to do at the same time. You will need more then just a syncro. There are lock nuts and lock washers and typically bearings that will need to be replaced. Yes, it's a good time to have the FW resurfaced and a new clutch installed. For some reason I seem to be one of the few that have good luck with Spec clutches. I just installed a Spec 2 clutch on my new engine and really enjoy. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 A lot of members have had great success with their synchro issues by switching to Subaru's super-refined 75W-90 fluids for their transmission and differentials. More info here. And absolutely agree with Max about the change intervals. Do it consistently at/about the 30K interval and keep your gearz happy. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 ^ Yeah it was my bad for putting off the fluid change. But since it's grinding already, I might as well get it fixed at my warranty provider's expense, eh? Depending on the additional cost, I may put up the extra money to have the rest replaced while they're in there. Same with the clutch. I'm going to get a 16g at some point but won't ever go past that in terms of power, so I don't think I need much of a clutch upgrade with the 6sp, right? Maybe just get a new OEM clutch? MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 NOOOOO!, IMO do not put a OEM clutch back in that car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Well I've only just started to research which clutch I might want. ACT HDSS seems reliable but with more noise than average. Clutchmasters FX300 gets lots of good reviews but I don't think I want a kevlar clutch because if I screw up and overheat it, it's done, so I'd lean towards the FX100 from them. Haven't had a chance to read much about the Spec clutches yet. We'll see. What about a stock STI clutch? MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiskeyTango Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 I do mine at 15k. Its just cheap insurance. Have a trans go once and you will find out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 If you keep the steel FW you should not have any noise from the clutch. I haven't done much research on sti clutches. May the plines are different. Guy's like m sprank and BAC5.2 would know. Or contact Mike at AZPinstalls.com or JSCspeed where I got my Spec 2+ from back in 07. For some reason I have never been a big fan of ACT. Spec helped me out when I needed a FW back in late Jun 07, since then I have met one of the guy's that works there through his drag race civic. We happen to have the same last name. I have sold him parts from our civic. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 NOOOOO!, IMO do not put a OEM clutch back in that car. The OEM SpecB 6MT seems to have better success than the OEM LGT 5MT ones. That said, a 16G upgrade shouldn't stress the stock SpecB capabilities and an OEM STI should be a subtle, and even more reliable bump in capabability. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 That's kinda what I thought. The spec.B 6sp clutch should hold all the power I plan on making, but I would like a little more aggressive bite on launches (which I hardly ever do) so an OEM STI clutch might be just right for me. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 FWIW, my 4th gear synchros went out after about 10k miles (bought my '07 new). I'm not THAT bad of a driver so the synchros may have issues. Since they were replaced I haven't had any issues now at 85k miles. My clutch gave out around 60k (5k miles after I got tuned for stage2) putting about 280ft-lbs to the wheels. I swapped to the STI clutch - including pressure plate - and am now putting down 360ft-lbs with no signs of slippage. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 ^ That's the info I was looking for, thanks. How does STi clutch/pressure plate feel? Did you get the flywheel too? MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 It is just a bit stiffer than the oem. I really like it. And yea i got the flywheel as well. Flywheel + pressure plate were used. Then ToB and clutch disk I got straight through the dealer from 07 STi. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proflatlander15 Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 I had a grind going into fourth gear and changed my fluid to 3qt Redline lightweight shockproof and the rest Motul 300 and it has shifted like butter ever since. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Why not go straight Extra-S? Not sure of the efficacy of mixing fluids and expecting full-spectrum protection. Just my $.02 - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Why not go straight Extra-S? Not sure of the efficacy of mixing fluids and expecting full-spectrum protection. Just my $.02 I guess you have never talked to BAC5.2... He highly recommends that. He's kind of good with tranny's... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Gone Extra-S, not going back. And BAC would know wear and compression/lube and abrasion elements if anyone on the site does. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtoearth Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 if you could lmk what happens, i got a nasty grind downshifting 5th to 4th even with a nice slow granny shift and a quick clip of 4th going 3rd to 4th 1000 miles till i hit 60K i'm afraid to bring it in because i know their gonna say *user abuse user abuse* just to save them self some $$$ got amsoil in the case Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Start with fluid change first, then investigate other issues. @SBT, I have Extra-S in mine now, but I think I'll try the Redline + Motul on my next change since the 5 gallon buckets of Extra-S have gone up $80. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 I should probably also put this out there: before considering any rebuilds on the factory trans, consider replacing the entire transmission at $3800 (2007 Spec B 6MT) or $3100 (5MT) from Heuberger if the price difference is small enough for your comfort level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.