07spec_b Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Check battery voltage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 just curious, did you check your fuel pressure ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 I haven't checked voltage or fuel pressure. I can check these. When the a/c is on the maf only goes up to 4 g/s from 3 g/s which isn't in a different cell. Plus, the A/F learning #1b is still around 1%. The maf calibration is still stock. The tune is just the ots cobb stage 2 map. I plan on tuning with opensource in the very near future because I just picked up another lc-1 to log with. Once I figure out the idle fuel trim I plan on fine-tuning the open loop fueling and re-calibrating the maf anyways. Even with the stock intake, it seems that it can always be a little better; it was this way with my impreza. Thank you for the help and suggestions. I may have to bite the bullet and find a shop to do a smoke test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 yes, so your maf scale is stock, if learning a is still way off, something mechanical is wrong..thus meaning you should do a smoke test. there's no reason to be adjusting your scaling with stock intake/filter/injectors, you'd just be bandaiding a mechanical issue. learning b range is hard to hit consciously, so it will usually bounce from a range to c range while stopping and starting driving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Update: I did another vacuum/boost test and again there were no leaks. The inlet held 15 psi solid and then blew the tester out of the inlet. I tweaked the ots stage 2 tune because I don't really like it and installed my wideband. I'm getting a netbook this weekend and am going opensource. Here is my latest learning view from last night after idling/driving for 2 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Looks good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Update: I did another vacuum/boost test and again there were no leaks. If you have no leak, why are your idle fuel trims at +4? Something is off. With a stock intake and MAF scaling you should almost always have negative fuel trims. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I've seen stock wrx's, lgt's with no vac or boost leak confirmed via smoke and compressed air test still have slight positive trims. from what I've gathered, slight improper airbox seal with the filter have caused small positive changes, or tiny maf seal leak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I will check the airbox and maf again. My understanding is that anything +/-5 is ideal. I am not an expert though and do appreciate the help. Next step is to check for a leak at the exhaust manifold, crossover and uppipe connection. I will also check the o2 sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Anything 0 to -5 is ideal. The stock MAF scaling is set up to run the motor rich at zero trims and almost always has subtract a little to run at stoich. Having said that, idle trims can bounce around a bit. LV is just a snapshot, you could log the car idling and see what the average trim is. Have you cleaned the MAF sensor? Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 The Maf sensor has been cleaned and it has a new oem air filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 what did you use to clean the MAF ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 what did you use to clean the MAF ? Maf sensor cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 just checking.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shello007 Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 So just to clarify guys, My A/F bounces around during driving, from -25%to 25%. is this ok? I just changed my inlet hose also, and ended breaking a nipple on my Vaccum switch ( Solenoid beneath intake manifold). Anyway, replaced it. I know from previous Smoke down test I may still have a slight intercooler leak, but by A/F learning #1 is pretty stable now; within +/- 3%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Can you be more specific which sensor you broke, exactly? Was your inlet tube torn, leading to a replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shello007 Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Inlet was torn. The nipple was part of the purge sensor solenoid( Vacuum Switch). It is actually attached to the same bracket that holds the boost controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Inlet was torn. The nipple was part of the purge sensor solenoid( Vacuum Switch). It is actually attached to the same bracket that holds the boost controller. Question... Which way does the arrow on your purge valve point? Inlet or fuel tank? My brother and I were opposite. I believe it points to the inlet tube line, but I'm not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shello007 Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Correction... I've been told by the dealership that Subaru uses similar names for different parts. Unless it's the same part we're talking about, the sensor I'm referring to sits directly beneath the intake manifold, with two nipples pointing towards the front of the car. There's another sensor infront, beneath the alternator, is that the one you're referring to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Just the evap emissions valve (it goes to the purge solenoid, the intake, and the fuel tank). http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=123493&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1342645429 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shello007 Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 So just to clarify guys, My A/F bounces around during driving, from -25%to 25%. is this ok? I just changed my inlet hose also, and ended breaking a nipple on my Vaccum switch ( Solenoid beneath intake manifold). Anyway, replaced it. I know from previous Smoke down test I may still have a slight intercooler leak, but by A/F learning #1 is pretty stable now; within +/- 3%. Correction, A/F Learning still all over the place, from -10% to 10% times, ( but usually in the 7% region). Vacuum pressure ranges from -9.6 to -10. Which is better than before. So, I don't really suspect a vacuum leak. Double and triple checked all hoses. Also, I have a K&N Typhoon intake..car is tuned for it. All answers/ suggestions welcomed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 check your PCV crossover tube. Is it full of yellow gunk? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shello007 Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Here are two pics showing where the hose was disconnected at the purge valve and where the other end of the hose is connected. The third is a piece I found (credits to boostin) highlighting where the purge valve should connect according to the fsm. Do you know if the lack of the foam around the purge valve 'thingy' affects it's efficacy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 The yellow thing is just a coupler I think. It might be used for padding the hose from the alternator. The black three port is the purge valve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Have you checked your exhaust prior to the first oxygen sensor for leaks? It's the one by the FR wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.