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uppipe diameter question


suboogru

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for the money, just buy an 07+ LGT, or 04+ sti uppipe and call it a day. that's all you needed to say

 

This^^^

 

turbodog, you make so many blanket "all or nothing" statements it's ridiculous. You assume you know everything about everything and everyone--you don't.

 

A gutted stock uppipe works better than every single aftermarket upipe on the market

 

Surely you've tested every single aftermarket pipe then to check the validity of this statement? Are you effing kidding me?

 

 

Thanks for pointing out such a robust study from a complete stranger that nobody here knows or trusts. Different car, different engine, but that's really beside the point.

 

You've managed to buy into a line of BS from aftermarket vendors who want to sell you an overpriced and lil fitting peice of pipe.

 

Thanks for assuming you know anything about me or my car. I run an STI up pipe because it suits my needs just fine. However, I'm not going to run around saying there's never a reason to run a different pipe on a different car to achieve different goals.

 

I would still just gut the stock uppipe and see the same performance. If you can't handle gutting the pipe, I would re-evaluate your ablity to work on cars.

 

You are suggesting that the average person make things more difficult than they need to be. Doing this adds potentially several hours to an UP install, which can lead to rushing the job--never a good idea. There is also a chance, no matter how small, that a piece of cat material is left behind which can easily result in a busted turbo. I paid $45 for a used STI pipe--worth the insurance of potentially borking my turbo that has a replacement cost of ~$1000. Also worth it to save time on my install, and I sold my stock piece for $35 anyway. I would recommend strongly that others spend $10 to make their lives easier and to mitigate any chance of leaving trace material material behind.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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This^^^

 

turbodog, you make so many blanket "all or nothing" statements it's ridiculous. You assume you know everything about everything and everyone--you don't.

 

 

 

Surely you've tested every single aftermarket pipe then to check the validity of this statement? Are you effing kidding me?

 

 

 

Thanks for pointing out such a robust study from a complete stranger that nobody here knows or trusts. Different car, different engine, but that's really beside the point.

 

 

 

Thanks for assuming you know anything about me or my car. I run an STI up pipe because it suits my needs just fine. However, I'm not going to run around saying there's never a reason to run a different pipe on a different car to achieve different goals.

 

 

 

You are suggesting that the average person make things more difficult than they need to be. Doing this adds potentially several hours to an UP install, which can lead to rushing the job--never a good idea. There is also a chance, no matter how small, that a piece of cat material is left behind which can easily result in a busted turbo. I paid $45 for a used STI pipe--worth the insurance of potentially borking my turbo that has a replacement cost of ~$1000. Also worth it to save time on my install, and I sold my stock piece for $35 anyway. I would recommend strongly that others spend $10 to make their lives easier and to mitigate any chance of leaving trace material material behind.

 

I make strong statements because there are incredibly strong misconceptions on this board. I stand by my statement that a gutted stock uppipe "works better" than every aftermarket peice ever produced, and, costs less. Please prove me wrong.

 

The sti unit is equivalent of a gutted stocker, except might provide better turbo response due to the consistant diameter. So for $45 it's certainly a very good option.

 

AFAIK all the 2.0's and 2.5's wrx/sti/lgt/bt/fxt/obxt/9-2's all used interchangeable uppipes with a 45mm inner diameter, so what applies to the 2.0l wrx certainly applies here.

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No.

 

If you want to make "strong" statements, back them up on your own time/dime.

 

I already did above - if an aftermarket unit does not have a flex section and 45mm inner diameter, it will fail to outperform a gutted OEM. The only aftermarket I know of with a chance is the TXS, and I highly doubt it has the long term durablity of the stocker.

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I like my overpriced ceramic coated Grimmspeed uppipe. If I had to go back and do it again, I'd still buy it.

 

Nice looking unit. I question their choice of inlet diameter, and their whole concept of porting the exhaust manifold out to the gasket diameter. The entire OEM manifold/upipe is already port matched to itself, the heads and turbo.

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I give up. It's pointless to argue with you because you fail to answer the questions / problems that are raised with regard to what you claim and instead choose to go off on tangents or just repeat what you said previously. Saying the same thing more than once doesn't make it more right, nor does it prove the point you are trying to make.

 

Good day, sir :)

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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I give up. It's pointless to argue with you because you fail to answer the questions / problems that are raised with regard to what you claim and instead choose to go off on tangents or just repeat what you said previously. Saying the same thing more than once doesn't make it more right, nor does it prove the point you are trying to make.

 

Good day, sir :)

 

You have not made any substantive arguement nor referenced any sources.

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Nice looking unit. I question their choice of inlet diameter, and their whole concept of porting the exhaust manifold out to the gasket diameter. The entire OEM manifold/upipe is already port matched to itself, the heads and turbo.

 

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/tuning-electronic-engine-management/134329353-protune-redo.html

http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f75/grimmspeed-ported-exhaust-manifold-high-flow-crosspipe-30561/

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There's a thread here with direct flow comparisons of a stock up vs an aftermarket up, and the results are significantly in favor of an aftermarket piece. I don't feel like trying to find it on my phone tho.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oem-catless-vs-aftermarket-up-pipe-debate-132863.html?p=2863069

 

Full disclosure alert: test was conducted by Grimmspeed.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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So I just read that. They don't mention what the test setup is like for the inlet of the uppipes under test - is it a velocity stack, or free air, or is there a stock manifold (of mis-matched diameter in the case of the grimmspeed unit) attached to it?

 

IMHO, the only reason the GS unit flows better in their tests is the opening is larger.......:lol:

 

Also, I believe flow benching is usually more accurate for the intake side of an engine, on the exhaust side there are far too many real world factors:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_flow_bench#Limitations

 

Exhaust port conditions

The flow simulated on a flow bench bears almost no similarity to the flow in a real exhaust port. Here even the coefficients measured on flow benches are inaccurate. This is due to the very high and wide ranging pressures and temperatures. From the graph above it can be seen that the pressure in the port reaches 2.5 bar (250 kPa) and the cylinder pressure at opening is 6 bar (600 kPa) and more. This is many times more than the capabilities of a typical flow bench of 0.06 bar (6 kPa).

 

The flow in a real exhaust port can easily be sonic with choked flow occurring and even supersonic flow in areas. The very high temperature causes the viscosity of the gas to increase, all of which alters the Reynolds number drastically.

 

Added to the above is the profound effect that downstream elements have on the flow of the exhaust port. Far more than upstream elements found on the intake side.

 

Exhaust port size and flow information might be considered as vague, but there are certain guidelines which are used when creating a base-line to optimum performance. This base line, of course, is further tuned and qualified through a dynometer.

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This thread has gone full on retarded!!

 

http://static.fjcdn.com/comments/the+word+intelligence+is+also+the+polar+opposite+of+dolan+_0a6e3bd1f9d88e169795acdf58dd97ee.jpg

 

LGT.com..................where questioning common knowledge and the status quo will not be tolerated!

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Thanks everyone. That helps me a lot. I ultimately went with the perrin though because I liked the look of their sticker

 

Clearly the most important criteria!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(fffffffffuuuuuuuuuu........................:spin:)

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