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Dream list: $13K to get 300 whp

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I have been lurking on this site since it was created and have a question for you experts (and btw, got-DAMN, some of you are serious mental cases when it comes to extensive knowledge about aftermarket mods - I read your technical posts and would love to have about an hour to chat with you - but alas, no, and hence this post)




I bought one of the first '05 LGT 5sp in '04. It now has 88K miles, and though it has had a few mechanical issues, the car is mechanically flawless, bone stock, and is perfect except for a few paint nicks.


I have a budget right now that would allow me to do 1 of 2 things: trade in my beloved Subaru and get something (new) and considerably faster, or buy another (additional) pedestrian daily driver, and take the money I have saved by not purchasing just 1 new car, and instead mod my Subaru.


I have chosen the latter for many reasons, the biggest being that if I could have my car today, but with 350 or so bhp AND the rest of the car in balance (brakes, suspension, etc, etc), it would be the car that I would buy if I someone made it. So that is what I am going to do - buy a 350hp Subaru Legacy GT (by starting with my own stocker), and as a bonus, it will be exactly the way I want it to be. And just in case someone mentions it, I do not like the size or looks of the WRX STI in any year or configuration - I want to start with my car.


Finally, my car is worth about $10-12K grand today. Therefore, after putting in the $13K or so, I will have an approx. $23K car that is fast, handles great, and is exactly what I want. That, to me, is a bargain, and more so, it the car I want.


OK, if you have a $13K budget (and this may be too slim for what I want - but let's first see your lists) for modding your stock '05 LGT, what would you purchase for each of the following categories (I am leaving wheels and tires out of this budget and list as those are a personal preference and I already have a few 18"/8.5 wheels that I like). The goal is to have a completely pleasant, reliable, balanced daily driver that also happens to have around 300whp.


OK contestants....the categories are (list all of the items for each category if you were after the goals listed above):


New Turbo/intake and all related plumbing (include everything from new turbo to air intake to intercooler, MAF etc)

New exhaust and all related parts (complete system)


New Suspension and all related parts (coil overs, etc)


New Brakes and all related parts (full front and back set ups w/braided lines, etc)

Clutch (as long as the car is apart....)



The point of doing all of the above will be lost if the car is not balanced, reliable, and entirely drivable as a daily driver. It is possible that I would do some auto-x in addition to daily driving.



Again, the above are YOUR dream lists: what would you buy if you had $13K in your hand to go after the above goals.


Sorry for the long post, and TIA for your lists and expertise. I have learned a ton from all of you over the years and would like to someday soon post some pics of my Subaru M3 :)

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If you only want 300whp that is easy to do.


Read my sig. That's on a Mustang dyno, they are known to read low. I have IPR tmic, vf52, catless Invidia up/dp to stock mid pipe. That's all. I guess 2 grand plus tuning.


You could take the rest of the leftover money and buy a second car.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.


Engine Build - Click Here

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I'd take the leftover money and buy a used scag mower or tractor.


now back on topic. I would probably do just what Max says. I really like his build for DD

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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This is fun. I'm with max...you can get to your goal for much less (however, you DID just put in a new engine, Byron!). BUT, if i was gonna blow a ton of money, off the top of my head:


Sell engine that is in your car now along with up pipe, turbo other bits for ~$3k. Remove TBE, brakes, rotors--sell for $500


Now your budget is $15.5k.


New engine, upgraded pistons, killer b oil pan, pickup, windage tray, matching P&P headers (UEL) and uppipe (maybe GTspec), do the work yourself (what the hell would this cost, $6-7k maybe?).


Remaining budget is $8.5k


AMR turbo for $2k. TBE for $1200ish. Koni inserts / shocks / springs all around for $1k. big break kit for $3.5k with rotors and ss lines. Sways, endlinks, rear mounts for $500.


Remaining budget is $300. Your short by about $1200 that you need for a process west TMIC and a dyno tune. But most of my prices were pretty conservative for sales and expensive for purchases, so you'd probably find that somewhere along the way (i.e. a $2k AMR turbo is not necessary for 300whp).



In all reality though, if I were you I would try to reach your goal a la Max's method and add some suspension goodies and a big brake kit. Keep the rest in an engine fund for when yours goes kaboom. It will eventually.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>


Not currently in stock :(

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People on this forum spend years building and tweaking their cars to achieve a perfectly balanced DD performance car, and you want somebody to just list everything and do it for you? Are you aware of and prepared for the maintenance that will be involved with a fully built lgt? (even one that's only at the 300whp level?


You're probably going to want a 16g, some T1's, and some bushings. The rest of the details you really need to do some research to get a better idea of. People are much more inclined to help you with specific questions or issues, not "I have $xxx, build my car for me please", there are shops you can pay to do that.

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BNR 18g w/ upgraded actuator & new fuel lines- $1000

1000cc injectors - $550

225 pump = $100

itsme fmic = $800

CNT catted dp = $350

STI uppipe = $100

k&n typhoon 73mm intake = $200

grimmspeed ebcs = $100

gfb bov = $230

stromung cbe (if u can find one) = $1000

dyno tune = $600

TOTAL = $5030



hotchkis sway bars = $230

avo reinf bracket = $100

kartboy endlinks = $200

KW or RCE coilovers = $1500

avo chassis braces = $300

TOTAL = $2330


drivetrain & misc:

competition stage 2 clutch w/ flywheel = $650

tsk3 clutch kit = $160

full kartboy bushings kit =$100

kartboy STS = $150

killerB oil pickup tube & oil pan & windage tray = $650

brembo big brake upgrade w/ stainless lines/fluids/etc = $2500

TOTAL = $4210


brings you up to $11,570. use the leftover ~$2k for cosmetic upgrades/gauges/whatever u want.

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Are you doing any of the labor itself? If not, then you really don't have too much of a

budget. If you want to tackle all categories, you may have half at reasonable performance

levels and lacking in the others. Everyone does things different and so it may not work for you.

I'll have to load my spreadsheet that I put together a few months back when I started

going stage 3.

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Again, the above are YOUR dream lists: what would you buy if you had $13K in your hand to go after the above goals.


Don't get me wrong, I like my lightly mod'd spec.b and think it's an excellent all around value, but there is no way I would ever pour $13k into it or make an amount of mods that could not be easily put back to stock.


Keep in mind, when you are done, your car will not be worth $23k. More like $12-14k.


The private party (or higher range of trade in) value of your car plus $13k is a very solid down payment on any number of newer high performance vehicles around $35k to $55k (new or used) that you and the ladies will find quite enjoyable. S4, S5 or 335? Camaro? Corvette? Mustang? C350? E350? CLS63AMG?

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2012 STi shortblock $1850

wiseco pistons $515

covert oil pickup $130

AMR CXR500 20g/td06 8cm $1350

Process West tmic $1020

DW 850cc injectors top feed $480(got a deal)

DW 65c fuel pump $130

GS EBCS $110

Invidia catless DP $200

SPT CBE v2 free

AEM CAI $150

total: $5935




BC racing coilovers $900

Rallitek sway bars front and rear $350

AVO HD endlinks front and rear $160

AVO rear support brackets :$100

Hawk HPS pads $70?

GS MCB $120?

total: $1700


that's my current shit, more than 300whp but it's not easy with a 5EAT

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but yea you're right :lol: sometimes i forget other people dont do their own labor


Yea, every time I get a little lazy and decide to maybe have something done, I am instantly reminded why I do my own labor "Oh, so it's going to cost $150 for you to spend 20 minutes pressing in that $65 bushing? Now that I think about it, I'm not really THAT busy this saturday"

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13k for only 300whp and DIY labor?



Pw tmic

750cc dw injectors

65c dw fp

Gs ebcs

AVO panel filter

Cnt catted dp

Stock mid y pipe to prodrive mufflers

Gfb response bov


Rce t1 coils w/ 9k springs w/ camber plates

WL rcck

Avo offset bushings

Avo subframe reinforcements front and rear

Hotchkiss fr sway bars with reinforcement brackets

Ts pitchstop

Group n tranny mount

Tranny mount bushings

Cobb sts

Avo Shifter bushings front and rear

Brembo front and rear brake kit

Technafit ss brake lines


Clutch masters fx300 clutch

Wrx singlemass flywheel

Gs lw crank pulley

Cusco front and rear LSD's

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Have about $11k right here with all parts installed myself with the exception of

the front Konis which I needed new strut housings. Also and in an Infamous

tune. Missing a few prices that I still need to dig through papers. All new

parts with the exception of the AP BBK and the rear Brembo calipers, and

the Invidia downpipe.



Koni Sport 750

Swift Springs 275

Kartboy Solid Endlinks 150

AVO Stout Mounts 85

Perrin F/R 25mm swaybars 280

SPT Lower Brace 129

R-REV Sports F/R Strut Braces 215

AVO Offset Control Arm Rear Bushings 125

AVO Control Arm Front Bushings 59

Energy Swaybar Bushings 25



5Zigen 18x8.5 ET 48 FN01R-C 650

Hankook Evo V12 245/40/18 550



AP Racing 4-pot Front w/ 2-piece rotor and hat (drilled and slotted) 1000

STi Brembo 2-pot Rear (Brembo slotted) 540

Hawk Pads Front 120

Stainless Brakelines (AP Front, Technafit Rear)

Onkel rear E-brake shoes and brackets 450

Grimmspeed Brake Booster Brace 85



Invidia Up Pipe 125

Invidia Catted Downpipe 300

Stromung Quadtip Exhaust 900

Torque Exhaust Hangers



KSTech 73mm Intake 200



BNR 18G w upgraded actuator 910

Grimmspeed 3- Port EBCS 90

Go Fast Bits Respons BOV 200

Deatschwerks 850CC Injectors 455

Deatschwerks 65C Fuel Pump 139

IP&T Filtered Oil Line Kit 175

PTP Turbo Blanket 80

TurboXS FMIC (satin black intercooler, wrinkle black piping) 889



Competition Cluth 2100 550

Kartboy Shifter Bushing 30

Kartboy Rear Shifter Bushing 35

Group N Engine Mounts 235

Group N Transmission Mounts

Group N Pitch Mount

Kartboy Crossmember Mounts 30

Subaru Short Throw

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I had made a list like this when I was recovering from my ACL surgery and had nothing better to do hahahaha.

Slots in way below $13,000 however, which makes me wonder if there's anything I'm missing :p Anyone have anything to add?


Stage 1 ($1,160):

COBB AccessPort ($600)

Cusco Sway bars ($325)

Kartboy STI Endlinks F&R w/spacers ($230+$5)



Stage 2 ($1,380):

ERZ catted down pipe ($280)

COBB Up pipe ($200)

DBA 4000 Series Brake rotors F&R ($520)

Hawk HPS Brake Pads F&R ($200)

Goodridge GStop SS brake lines ($180)



Stage 3 ($2,900):

BC BR Coilovers ($1,000)

SPT Catback ($1,100)

AVO Top-Mount Intercooler ($800)



Stage 4 ($2,230):

AVO380 Ball-Bearing Turbo ($2,000)

AVO Fuel Pump Assembly ($230)




STI Front Lip ($100)

Work Emotion Kai ($1,800)

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-grill-done-right-plus-fog-bezel-matching-62899.html?p=1191120#post1191120 (free!)

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/headlight-clearing-w-pics-3737p2.html (free!)

Window tints ($???)




http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/plug-n-play-aux-mod-2005-6cd-radios-18504.html ($80)



Total Prices:

Total mods: $9,460 with wheels, $7,660 without wheels.

Car: ~$16,500

Car + Mods = ~$25,000



Alternate plan for brakes:

Brembo front brake kit ($1,540)

Brembo rear brake kit ($1,720)

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Im fairly certain I went way over budget



PTP Turbo Blanket






Prodrive EBCS

Infamous1 Road Tune

DW 850cc Injectors


Fuel Hose Reroute

GTSPEC Headers with Thermotec wrap and spray

GTSPEC Up-Pipe with Thermotec wrap and spray

Stromung CBE

Torque Solutions Exhaust Hangers

ERZ Catted 3” Downpipe with Thermotec wrap and spray





Whiteline front and rear sway bar bushings

KW2 COILOVERS (fresh rebuild)



AVO Rear Sway Bar Mount Reinforcements



Technafit Lines

DBA 4000 Rotors

D31 Drag Gunmetal 18x8 +48

Hubcentric rings

Forged Lugs

KDW2 245/35/18

GMS Radiator Hoses

GroupNLeft Engine Mount

GroupNRight Engine Mount

GroupN Trans Mount

GroupN Pitch Stop

Whiteline Front Roll Center Kit


Whiteline Positive shift kit

Whiteline Steering rack bushings

Whiteline Rear Differential Bushing inserts

Whiteline Rear Differntial Mount Bushings

Kartboy Front shifter bushing

Kartboy Rear shifter bushing

GrimmSpeed Gaskets

KillerB Windage tray

KillerB Pick Up


Battery, smaller than OEM

Perrin Lightweight Crank Pulley








Cleared lamps with HID and Halos DRL disable, relay+ wiring and HALO wiring to Fogs Rewire Fogs as DRL

LED Interior Lighting Kit

New Fuel Pressure Regulator


R-Rev Grill (already had actually)

R-Rev Eyelids

R-Rev Type-S Spoiler

R-Rev K2-Style Window Spoiler

R-Rev Strakes

R-Rev Mudguards

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Just make sure to buy a brand name intercooler. It is fact that knock offs and cheap garbage flow worse then brand name. Not all cores are created equally. Used three different intercoolers on my car in the past year.
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