Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Inlet Leak


paintpollz

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply
I've had my turbo(s) out and off the inlet about six different times, it's holding up. there's nothing wrong with the 07+ inlets, at all. unless you really flexed something significantly to crack or break something off. The turbo seal on the inlet is doubled up compared to 05-06, so it takes a lot of rape to get that one to tear.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mega Users
i think you should figure out where the leak is before you go buying things

 

ok. not sure how much time i wanna spend ripping shit apart and putting it back together but oh well.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
Link to comment
Share on other sites

how do you know its the inlet? you hear hissings but there's like 5 tubes there as well. listen closer or spray and figure that part out before ripping shit out. you dont need to rip shit out to find a vac leak, and when you rip shit out, good luck boost testing successfully.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chris has a god point. I'm guessing it's the flex part of the oem intake tube. I replaced mine over the weekend because the turbo end was torn.

 

It's much easier with the intake manifold and TGV's on the bench. You can remove the 6 bolts that hold the TGV's to the heads and fuel lines, a few electrical connectors and the whole black intake manifold, may be a coolant line or two also.

 

You'll need the TGV gaskets to replace them.

 

I can see where it may be possible to replace the tube with the intake on the car, but it must be a royal PITA. You would at least have to remove the tmic....oh yea, you don't one.

 

Sounds like its getting time to buy your own house.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mega Users
Chris has a god point. I'm guessing it's the flex part of the oem intake tube. I replaced mine over the weekend because the turbo end was torn.

 

It's much easier with the intake manifold and TGV's on the bench. You can remove the 6 bolts that hold the TGV's to the heads and fuel lines, a few electrical connectors and the whole black intake manifold, may be a coolant line or two also.

 

You'll need the TGV gaskets to replace them.

 

I can see where it may be possible to replace the tube with the intake on the car, but it must be a royal PITA. You would at least have to remove the tmic....oh yea, you don't one.

 

Sounds like its getting time to buy your own house.

 

i know tell me about it....i gotta finish up the bike before i start on this one.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mega Users
Easier to move as its solid and much more flexible then the stock inlet. Its tight but a nice inlet should slide in without having to unbolt IM.

 

 

 

 

Where you have circled isn't any where near the turbo location. If anything; there is a nipple on the inlet in that area that goes back to the BPV.

 

Carb spray works wonders, give it a shot and report back.

 

Carb spray, thats the key.

 

Yes, where I circled isn't anywhere near the turbo, but the farther you stick your hand down there, the closer you get.;)

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mega Users
how do you know its the inlet? you hear hissings but there's like 5 tubes there as well. listen closer or spray and figure that part out before ripping shit out. you dont need to rip shit out to find a vac leak, and when you rip shit out, good luck boost testing successfully.

 

If its not the inlet itself, its something connected to it. When I pull up on it, it holds pressure, push down, and it releases. Don't you think it's safe to say that if not the inlet itself, some hose connected to it has to be the culprit? From what you have been telling me, there is no reason why the inlet would be cracked or broken in anyway. Unless the shop that did the IM gaskets screwed something up when they were in there.

 

The reason why I'm beating this to death is because I have to set expectations for myself and other people. I don't have garage space to work in whenever I want. I need set time aside for this stuff and coordinate with the parents, people who I'm borrowing tools from, etc. I'd like to have somewhat of a plan before I start diving into this thing. And you people are the ones I need to consult with to figure this all out.

 

What I now know and can expect (because of the help from you guys), is that I need to pull the IM to avoid nuclear frustration, and by doing that, I'll need to replace the TGV gaskets. Other than that, its carb spray and patience that's gonna solve this one. If I get in there and something is cracked or ripped, then I'll be down for a few days, and the parents are just going to have to deal with that.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, if you want to collect parts then do it all at once, that's fine, i guess. but it could be something simple too, the fact that pushing and pulling changes the hiss is odd, but cracking the tube of the inlet is extremely rare so i find it hard to believe its that. i'd say start with carb cleaner, then maybe a handheld mirror/flex mirror to try and visualize it if possible. if you loosen or remove the IM, you cant boost leak test it any more, so figuring out where the leak is with everything still attached is superior. it may or may not be able to be visualized via a mirror
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mega Users
if you loosen or remove the IM, you cant boost leak test it any more, so figuring out where the leak is with everything still attached is superior.

 

my lord and savior, carburator cleaner

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mega Users
what did you find out?

 

nothing yet Im still bored at work. thats why Im posting so much. Im assuming chris is in the same boat.

 

what the hell are you still doin around, shouldn't you be serving and protecting right now?:);)

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my 40 + years of playing with engines and mechanical stuff, if it changes when you move it, that's a crack or tare.

 

If it happened all the time, that's, a hose fell off.

 

Does that make sence ?

 

I have my old intake tube in the trash box in my shed. I can post a picture of it later so you can see the flex spot in it if you'd like.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mega Users
From my 40 + years of playing with engines and mechanical stuff, if it changes when you move it, that's a crack or tare.

 

If it happened all the time, that's, a hose fell off.

 

Does that make sence ?

 

I have my old intake tube in the trash box in my shed. I can post a picture of it later so you can see the flex spot in it if you'd like.

 

that's what I'm thinking, that's why for 25 bucks, its nice insurance to have the part there if you need it. but like chris says, why go spending if you dont know for sure. :rolleyes:

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
Link to comment
Share on other sites

that's what I'm thinking, that's why for 25 bucks, its nice insurance to have the part there if you need it. but like chris says, why go spending if you dont know for sure. :rolleyes:

 

That's just because he's chris...:rolleyes: lol

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently replaced my turbo intake hose because it was ripping at the turbo connection. I replaced it with a new stocker from the dealer without removing the intake manifold. It was a major PITA. But do-able. Definitely no fun.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mega Users
oh man. I unloaded a half can of carb cleaner all over the inlet, over every connection. no luck....not sure what to do from here.
"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Easier to move as its solid and much more flexible then the stock inlet. Its tight but a nice inlet should slide in without having to unbolt IM. Where you have circled isn't any where near the turbo location. If anything; there is a nipple on the inlet in that area that goes back to the BPV. Carb spray works wonders, give it a shot and report back.

 

I meant near the turbo relative to near the bettery or firewall, etc. Was stating the obvious and should have been more clear. Speaking of more clear... I assume you mean the properties of silicone but can you re-explain the inlet thing to those who don't understand how it can be solid AND much more flexible without a little more clarification.

 

i might just start parting the car out.

 

Dibs on the armrest

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use