GTO5005 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Hey guys, I was driving my 05 Legacy GT Sedan AT the other day and noticed a strange noise when I gave it some gas at a stop light. When I slowly accelerate this noise doesn't occur , however when I go up a steep incline and require torque the noise will return. The noise used to come and go however it now occurs all the time in the above situations. The sound is coming from the driver's side of the engine. This sound will not occur if I am in park and rev it ( I revd to 5k, didn't want to go any higher figuring its probably bad for the car). I checked the hoses all around the inter cooler and they seemed to be secure. I am going to throw out a guess, and say my BOV/Intercooler is cracked/leaking, anyone else have any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Since its so easy to check the gasket, yank that engine cover and check the bov/intercooler. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WHEN PUTTING BACK ON. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Take a pint size paint can and stick it in the hose off the air filter box. Then pull the small hose off the blow off valve. Blow a short blast of air from a compressor in the line, them stick your thumb over the hose and listen for leaks. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.Catalyst. Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 I just had mine inspected by a Subaru technician for similar issues yesterday, and after I had checked for apparent leak (all hoses were tight), I decided to take it in since it's under warranty. Turned out mine was bearing noise from the turbo. When I heard the noise it seemed to emit from the driver's side as well, when in boost under load. Not saying it's what you're facing but sounds awful familiar. I would liken the noise to almost a "wooden whistle" like a recorder. My spec.B [#163] Project Thread with Pictures Get CryoTuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Does that mean your turbo is going bad? Recently just went front mount with K&N intake. Never heard the whinning noise until the installs. Its also only a WOT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Smoke test is the easiest and quickest way to determine a boost or vac leak. Most shops sould charge around $50 to do it. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.2971 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.Catalyst. Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Does that mean your turbo is going bad? Recently just went front mount with K&N intake. Never heard the whinning noise until the installs. Its also only a WOT.In my case yes, they are replacing my turbo. Not saying this is true for anyone else, as I opted to have my situation done under warranty, because I'm by no means an expert on these matters. Just put it out there since it "sounded" so similar to my experience and is severe enough that I'd try and track down the source of said noise ASAP. My local Subaru mechanic had noticed a faint noise on a test drive post suspension upgrades and mentioned it to me thinking it could be indicative of failing BPV or Intercooler and said to bring it in if it got any louder or more prominent. I put in a high flow panel filter during my stage 1 tune shortly after, and it became much more pronounced when in boost. So after checking for any disconnected hoses, stressed tabs on the IC, etc.; I opted to turn it over to the pros since I have full SOA coverage at this point. Smoke test is the easiest and quickest way to determine a boost or vac leak. Most shops sould charge around $50 to do it. This seems like the best first step, and I know Mike has a lot of experience. My spec.B [#163] Project Thread with Pictures Get CryoTuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTO5005 Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 Alright, I did the test that Max Capacity suggested and I didn't hear any leaks or hissing from the BOV/IC or anywhere else for that matter. The "wood whistle" sound in my opinion seems to be the most accurate way of describing the noise I am hearing, and it did also remind me of a bad bearing as well. Castalyst's story seems identical to my situation. So now this leads me to the next step. Should I have the dealer check it out to get a second opinion? (Will they charge me for that? My Car has 63k miles). I don't really have any tuning shops close by. (Closest might be Buffalo, but that's still an hour and some drive) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Alright, I did the test that Max Capacity suggested and I didn't hear any leaks or hissing from the BOV/IC or anywhere else for that matter. The "wood whistle" sound in my opinion seems to be the most accurate way of describing the noise I am hearing, and it did also remind me of a bad bearing as well. Castalyst's story seems identical to my situation. So now this leads me to the next step. Should I have the dealer check it out to get a second opinion? (Will they charge me for that? My Car has 63k miles). I don't really have any tuning shops close by. (Closest might be Buffalo, but that's still an hour and some drive) I would get an oil analysis ASAP, if he bearing is bad in the turbo there will be copper in your oil. Blackstone saw this on my 11 sti and turned out to be a bad main bearing. They thought it was the turbo initially. Easiest thing to do is pull the downpipe and see if there is shaft play, but a shop will charge for that and I'm not sure a dealer will cover that diag under warranty, unless they determine the turbo is bad. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.2971 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTO5005 Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 If there is shaftplay, am I still going to have to pull the whole turbo out regardless? Or is there a way to change the bearing without removing the turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Loose clamp on the TB hose caused a similar noise on my car under the same conditions. Taking the sleeve off the end of the stock hose made for a better seal on the TB, and I've never had a problem since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 If there is shaftplay, am I still going to have to pull the whole turbo out regardless? Or is there a way to change the bearing without removing the turbo? The turbo needs to be removed, and discarded, really the only rebuilders are BNR and that's usually a core-exchange. -Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg%5Dhttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTO5005 Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share Posted May 13, 2012 It looks like I am going to have to replace my turbo, what is the dealer invoice? I am sure it is on this site somewhere but I have looked all over and have not found it. I think at one point in time I remember reading 1500$ somewhere. Does that sound about right? Or I might go with a 16g BNR turbo, have a friend help me, and get an etune, unless the v1 Cobb can't do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shades Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 It sounds just like a boost leak from a tube. The seals may feel tight, but the hoses are known for sucking in where you may not see it unless you take it off to see it. I had that problem and it sounded like a bad belt or loud goose sound. just my 2 cents. Good luck with the problem though You gotta push your limits to learn your limits:cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 It looks like I am going to have to replace my turbo, what is the dealer invoice? I am sure it is on this site somewhere but I have looked all over and have not found it. I think at one point in time I remember reading 1500$ somewhere. Does that sound about right? Or I might go with a 16g BNR turbo, have a friend help me, and get an etune, unless the v1 Cobb can't do that. The OEM turbos go for around $1100ish. I'm not sure the V1 AP can be etuned but it is possible. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Send that v1 back to Cobb on the trade in program. It will save you a little cash. I traded mine in, my Tuner loaded his maps in to the v2 in case I need them. I'm not good with the lap top and data logging thing so I just drive my car and meet up with him if the car need something with the tune, which it shouldn't. It hasn't been back to him since the dyno last Aug. Or sell the v1 and go with a lap top and cables. I got my vf52 from AZPinstalls for about $1100 shipped, had it the next day. Buy it from them. How much HP do you want ? see my sign, that's on stock fueling. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTO5005 Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Turns out a clamp wasn't tighten around the valve body, got it tightened up and now the sound is gone. Thanks for the help, last question, I had an AP v2 on my car, it got stolen, bought a AP v1 (Both Cobb), And now I cant get the AP v1 to work I am fairly certain that the ap v1 isn't married, but I was never able to unmarred my v2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Turns out a clamp wasn't tighten around the valve body, got it tightened up and now the sound is gone. Thanks for the help, last question, I had an AP v2 on my car, it got stolen, bought a AP v1 (Both Cobb), And now I cant get the AP v1 to work I am fairly certain that the ap v1 isn't married, but I was never able to unmarred my v2. I'm not sure the v1 can over write the v2 that was not unmarried. Give Cobb a call and I'm sure they will know. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.2971 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Turns out a clamp wasn't tighten around the valve body, got it tightened up and now the sound is gone. Told ya so:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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