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Axle replacement.


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need to replace front passenger axle.

dealer price was 479.99?!?! 0_o

 

Oreiley auto parts said they don't carry em, napa said they have to order it..

plan on doing it myself doest look too complicated.

any suggestions as to where i should get a replacement?

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I think there are DIY instructions on here. I did my left front 2 years ago. $80.00 from Advance Auto Parts, for a 100% new axle.

 

You need to break the torque on the 32mm axle nut first, then remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint, loosen the castle nut. Leave it on the threads to protect it when you hit the LCA with a 3-5lb hammer. After a few hits try to pry the LAC down from the ball joint. If need, hit it a few more times, it will pop free.

 

When seating the new axle if you have hard time, jack up the LCA to raise the spindle level. take a piece of 2x4, place it over the end of the axle, hit the 2x4 with the BMFH. It should drive the axle in past the "C" spring.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 1 month later...

FWIW - Warning

 

I went with the GSP axle #NCV66002 from Advance Auto Parts for my

2005 Legacy GT.

 

The job was easy and I was very excited to get this issue out of the way for around $70 since my factory passenger inner boot was torn in half.

 

The first time I started the car, it vibrated as if I'd replaced a motor mount with a steel block at idle and in gear. I have been trying to diagnose the new issue for a month thinking I had damaged something or had a bad plug, etc.

Last night I looked around the internet a bit and read that it's a common enough issue with replacement axles on Subarus.

 

I'm going to rebuild my factory axle and put it back in instead. The vibration is just too much.

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I've read many ideas on why this seems to happen. Some say the new Chinese axles are too short. Some say they are too tight, or too loose. Some say they are cheaper/smaller internally. I really don't know.

 

In all cases that I've read about, returning to a factory axle (New, rebuilt, junkyard, etc.) fixes the problem. I don't know that every GSP axle presents the problem. Maybe GSP has dealt with different suppliers over the years. It's not specific to GSP either.

 

I'm really looking forward to getting back to a smooth idle existence! I hate to sit at stoplights now.

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I'm not entirely clear on that. It looks "new" and I have read that rebuilding is not as cost effective as it used to be. There was no core exchange THANK GOODNESS! I hate to have to find another Subaru axle somewhere!
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Ok my long story, I bought a 100% axle from Advance Auto parts in Aug 10. $80.00, it came from International Auto which was about 2 miles away. Advance told me they could have it in 45 minutes.

 

From back in my Honda Civic day's, Advance Auto Parts had Life time guaranty axles, with my discount I paid $28.00, they were rebuilt. I had replaced one of them four times before I got a good one. Another time it took 3 to get a good one.

 

A few of the bad ones would vibrate when driven.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I have always had great luck with Raxles. A bit on the expensive side but you get what you pay for. We all know the quality control of the Chinese made stuff.

 

The raxles unit did not have any vibration issues. They use a high quality rubber boot with synthetic amsoil grease. Quality clamps that will not loosen which I believe is what happens to the OEM unit. New parts all around, besides the shaft.

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