Max Capacity Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Just to wrap this up from my standpoint and give advice to anyone that may read this.... I put in a new wheel bearing assembly from Subaru and the cruise works fine now. Whereas the cruise did not work fine with either of the two wheel bearings that I bought from an auto parts store. So I can only assume that there is some sort of defect in the magnetic strip in the two aftermarket wheel bearing assemblies that I tried. Would you care to tell us what name brand wheel bearings those were ? I used a Moog for my left rear and had no problems. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 I have used Moog without issue as well. I have also used OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstape Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 The first one was Moog and the second was Driveworks. I also did replace my front passenger side bearing about six months ago with a Moog bearing and had no issues. I am wondering if the supplier of the magnetic strips (probably Moog and Driveworks uses the same supplier) that go into the bearing made some changes, or had some quality issues that were not detected before assembly? Maybe Moog and Driveworks buy their bearings from the same manufacturing plant and brand them differently too? Just speculation here.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkevin99 Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 Original poster here... Problem solved. As someone posted earlier, it was the aftermarket wheel bearing assemblies. I originally used Moog. After the CC wouldn't work, an understanding friend at the auto parts store warrantied them and gave me Beck/Arnley. Same problem. I then found out I could get OEM hubs from Fred Bean for $124 each and put those on last night - problem solved! While I had things apart, I did some measurements. The distance from the part of the hub that goes against the spindle to the surface of the ABS magnet ring is .050" greater on the OEM part, putting the magnet that much closer to the ABS sensor. I'm assuming just that little is the difference... It's interesting that this was enough to make the CC not work but the ABS still worked fine. Computers. I wish I had checked Fred Bean's before I bought the aftermarket hubs. My stealership wanted $254 for each hub, so the aftermarkets at ~$100 seemed like a good bargain. If I had known I could have gotten the OEM hubs for $124 I would have gone this route in the first place... Interestingly, I replaced the rear hubs first with aftermarket (Moog) hubs and they work just fine. BTW... Except for the CC issue, there's nothing wrong with the pair of Beck/Arnely hubs, they have less that 1000 miles on them. If anyone wants them you can have them for the cost of UPS, just let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 You mean these: http://www.infamousperformance.net/media/02/a207916131f6f861f0aae3_s.jpg Subaru Legacy GT Front Wheel Bearing While I tried to assist, I did not get the sale (not the first, not the last, not the worst thing that could happen). I dont push sales in the open forums, I just try to help like a member. But, I am pleased you chose to buy from (Ryan) Fred Beans Parts and supported a forum vendor. Glad you got it all worked out in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Can someone explain how the sensors are tested? The stealership already took my money and claimed they couldn't reproduce the cruise problem. I'm done with them. I'd gladly pay another shop to troubleshoot. I just put a new Moog front left hub on (mixed result I see on here). Wish I looked a day earlier because I would have got the Fred Beans part for $30 cheaper. I had swapped both hubs 2 years ago and that broke my cruise (didn't put 2&2 together at the time). Now one of my eBay crap hubs is bad and out of warranty. If my Moog hub works, I still may not know it if the other ebay hub is crap. If I can get the sensors tested/diagnosed, it will save a bunch of work. I get the erratic cruise behavior, then blinky light. My guess is that only one hub would be used for sensing speed for cruise, no? If I were designing it, that's the simply way to go. My ABS still works so my guess is the sensors. I can't believe that the ABS signal would differ from the speed signal enough to cause one to work and the other not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 You can not use Moog front hub's. Replace it/them with OEM. I guess the one you get from NAPA, either timkin or SFK work too. I took my Moog back to the auto parts store I bought it from and they gave me my money back. Did I hear you say your's came from ebay ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 You can not use Moog front hub's. Replace it/them with OEM. I guess the one you get from NAPA, either timkin or SFK work too. I took my Moog back to the auto parts store I bought it from and they gave me my money back. Did I hear you say your's came from ebay ? Yes, eBay, Detroit Axle via eBay. I thought some have had the Moog work for them though. I realize it may not help to know if my eBay/Detroit Axle part is on the other side up front and causing the other half of the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Well kind of does, you need to replace both. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTurbo Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 I'm having the same issues with mine.... additionally, my car seems a lot slower than before the new wheel bearing was installed. I just noticed that after a week of driving with the new wheel installed on the front right passenger side, just today i noticed a dramatic change in power and MPG. 1st thing i notice was that an hour worth of driving and my gas tank is already half way empty. I wasn't like that yesterday or the week before. I also notice that it feels like something is dragging it down... especially on the freeway. I feel like i really have to step on it to get it going.... I was wondering if anyone has experience the same thing in loss of power and their MPG gone bazaar. Any thoughts on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Need more specific data to diagnose. But sounds like you are in limp mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Get the CEL code read at any auto parts store for free. then report back. Also get that wrong hub out of there, replace it with a OEM one. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Cold be a chassis code, in which case the standard code checker wont read it. Or it will read a generic P0700. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTurbo Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Thanks for the response. As of right now, there is no check engine light on. Can it still throw a code even if there is no check engine light on? And the after market wheel bearing I got is a Moog, which I got from Napa which they call it the premium brand. I read that Moog was suppose to be good too. I'm having the shop redo the job tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 I've read mixed things about the Moog as far as cruise compatibility goes. Not sure what to believe yet. I just installed a Moog from Autozone but haven't driven it yet due to stripped brake caliper bracket. In the mean time I found that the neutral sensor might be causing the cruise to kick off. That thread here. I found an OEM from fcpimport.com for the same price as the Moog and it will be here Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Moog is ok for the rears, not the fronts. Trust me on that one. I have posted here about it. Got home from work one day, took the Moog front hub out, put the old bad OEM hub in, the CC worked great. Called the dealer, picked one up that evening, took the bad hub out, put the new OEM one in, cars been fine since. That was over 12 month's ago. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swimboy1993 Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Dont flame me for not wanting to read the entire thread, but if its anything but OEM it can have issues. I had brand new hub assemblies from an auto store, cruise didnt work since I put them in. 7 months later my small Subaru shop mechanic said its probably the bearings in the aftermarket assembly. Our cars are very finicky, and need oem. After buying OEM and putting them in, no more cruise issues. My .02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyGTurbo Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Yay! I just got mine re-installed and it fixed all the issues I had regarding the wheel bearing. When I brought it back in, I gotten into an argument with the service manager regarding OEM vs aftermarket. He argued that their aftermarket part was superior to OEM and that there shouldn't be a problem with the wheel bearing. I argued back and and ask them if they had ever changed a wheel bearing on this Subaru before. His answer was "we've worked on all kinds of Subaru." I then showed him the post on this forum and made him read it. Because of this, i was able to get it replaced without being charged twice with a OEM wheel bearing. Thanks lgt.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 Glad we could help. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 I have had a Moog work... once. All we sell/install at my shop (for front wheel bearing assemblies on LGT's) is OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 As of right now, there is no check engine light on. Can it still throw a code even if there is no check engine light on? Yes, the light is related to the engine and emissions. If you have other codes it's not necessarily set. Almost any P code sets it, but if you have an U, C or B code it's not necessarily set. Some codes can make the ABS indicator light up while other lights up the airbag warning instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 A ways back in this thread there was reference to a Beck Arnley hub not working. I kind of find that a stretch because Beck Arnley does not manufacture anything at all. They are simply a re-packager and most of the time, it's OE replacement parts that they put in their boxes. I'm not doubting the issue, but I wonder why they didn't have the OE hub/bearing assembly in their box. If you purchase an ignition coil from them, it's the OE Subaru part. Same with the cam and crank sensors-OE Subaru parts. I used to rep Beck Arnley and that was one of the strongest selling points-"They supply OE parts at aftermarket prices" and with all of the issues that seem to be appearing on these hubs, I'd be especially surprised if they didn't have the OE hub in their box. Oh well...LOL...some things DO change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulew Posted October 1, 2013 Share Posted October 1, 2013 Ok, after replacing one of my two bargain basement hubs with an oem (left front), my cruise has not cut off yet but it still fairly erratic. It appears that both hubs are used by the cruise. I still don't understand how abs is ok while cruise is not. I will have to wait for funds to do the other or our of necessity if the right side goes bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ece_tim Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Well guys, I just found this thread (sorry for the necro) on searching for symptoms after just replacing both of my front hubs. I used Moog brand hubs from Advance Auto Parts and the car drives great, but the cruise doesn't work and exhibits the same symptoms described earlier. Guess I'll order the hubs from FBP and swap them out soon :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Well guys, I just found this thread (sorry for the necro) on searching for symptoms after just replacing both of my front hubs. I used Moog brand hubs from Advance Auto Parts and the car drives great, but the cruise doesn't work and exhibits the same symptoms described earlier. Guess I'll order the hubs from FBP and swap them out soon :/ If they are new you should be able to get a refund for them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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