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Info on OB to GT suspension geometry. (Removing spacer)


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I did the same. Got legacy gt wagon struts and Springs and it lowered just fine. I went the extra mile and converted to full legacy spec about 1000 miles later. It didn't really make a difference in the end that I could tell. I also got rubbing with outback sized tires at full lock. Went a little lower on the sidewall and that fixed it. Speedo is off a bit now though...

 

As for the steering rack I kept mine obxt. The driveshaft should be changed though if your taking out the subframe spacers. The center mount is different so with the lowered subframe it puts it an a less than ideal angle.

 

Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk

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what do you guys think is fair asking price for all the components, minus struts/springs to do this swap? Going to look at a LGT part out today. Im assuming all of it needs to be blasted and painted and new bushings installed.

 

Basically going to him with this list and picture. Ive got a 5EAT, so Im assuming nothing needs to be done to the shifter. And I don't "need" the heat shield.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3843386&postcount=37

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what do you guys think is fair asking price for all the components, minus struts/springs to do this swap? Going to look at a LGT part out today. Im assuming all of it needs to be blasted and painted and new bushings installed.

 

Basically going to him with this list and picture. Ive got a 5EAT, so Im assuming nothing needs to be done to the shifter. And I don't "need" the heat shield.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3843386&postcount=37

Iirc I paid about 250 for all my components minus the struts. Had to have the parts shipped though.

 

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Took delivery of an entire rear lgt subframe, from brake rotor to brake rotor. Is everything the same as Outback? I may just sand blast, paint and rebuild this one if it will bolt right in.

 

Rear diff ratios are different, right?

 

I don't know the answer to your question - but make sure to remove the front spacers too if you are going down that path.

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Ive also got the trans mounts and the front LCA brackets. I think all Im missing is the steering u-joint. The guy just gave me the whole subframe, diff, hubs, rotors and calipers instead of pulling the stuff I wanted off of it. If the whole thing will bolt up, Im going to start cleaning it up and painting it. Need to do the same to mine anyways.
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  • 1 month later...
I have a LGT Wagon, im looking for the parts to make mine an outback. i have baja springs that i may put on outback struts and a lift kit from SJR, my 2000, that will fit the real. mine sits on spec b suspension now. I use mine for hunting off roading. Has a built long block makes 312Hp on a mustang dyno, in street tune. i was thinking about just doing the struts and not the lift blocks because they don't give any more clearance to the oil pan, exhaust, rear diff. the blocks are only a body lift. but may want to try it both ways. Ive lifted a 97, 99, and a 2000 ob wagons. 97 with king springs, 99 with springs and 2" spacers, and 2000 same way. any help or parts would be appreciated.
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I have a LGT Wagon, im looking for the parts to make mine an outback. i have baja springs that i may put on outback struts and a lift kit from SJR, my 2000, that will fit the real. mine sits on spec b suspension now. I use mine for hunting off roading. Has a built long block makes 312Hp on a mustang dyno, in street tune. i was thinking about just doing the struts and not the lift blocks because they don't give any more clearance to the oil pan, exhaust, rear diff. the blocks are only a body lift. but may want to try it both ways. Ive lifted a 97, 99, and a 2000 ob wagons. 97 with king springs, 99 with springs and 2" spacers, and 2000 same way. any help or parts would be appreciated.

 

I have my OBxt springs and struts if you are interested?

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
Bringing this dead thread back to life! I only need a couple of parts to complete my spacer removal list, one of them being the driveshaft. Does anyone have any experience with the Dorman aftermarket replacements? Does DSS make a one piece aluminum driveshaft for a 4EAT Legacy?
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  • 1 month later...
I FINALLY got an 06 OBXT from Rosenthal Acura Mazda in Gaithersburg, Md. Avoid these fuckers like a fat ugly bitch w/AIDS! Im going 2 lower my OBXT, although, I have an 05 LGT for most of the parts Im not trying 2 go as far as the car on this thread. So whats the next best way of lowering my OBXT. Thanks 4 the advice.
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I FINALLY got an 06 OBXT from Rosenthal Acura Mazda in Gaithersburg, Md. Avoid these fuckers like a fat ugly bitch w/AIDS! Im going 2 lower my OBXT, although, I have an 05 LGT for most of the parts Im not trying 2 go as far as the car on this thread. So whats the next best way of lowering my OBXT. Thanks 4 the advice.

 

Hey man, I'm all over earlier posts in this thread. Take it from me--I've spent more than $3000 on various setups and, at the end of the day, I wish that I would've started with where I am now: just spend $500-600 on a set of JDM LGT SpecB's. DO make sure to add the .5" spacer in the rear, and I HIGHLY recommend the rear LGT LCAs.

 

Start with that.

 

If you're curious, send me a PM. I'm near Rockville, off the Red Line.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BIL1FJZjRSN

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BNm9LSPjJAz

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  • 3 months later...

I was in the process of doing this, and I want to add some fresh hardware. I looked up the diagrams and got this. I've already got bushings, but is there anything else you recommend adding to this list?

 

Rear (per side):

902350001 x2 (tophat to body)

902350027 x1 (tophat to suspension)

031012000 x1 (washer for "0027)

 

Rear Lower (per side):

901000177 x1 (suspension to LCA Bolt)

900335056 x1 (suspension to LCA washer)

20550AA010 x1 (suspension to LCA nut)

 

 

Front upper (per side):

902350013 x3 (tophat to body)

902350027 x1 (tophat to suspension)

20326AA120 x1 (tophat cap)

20320AG00A x1 (tophat - if needed)

 

Front lower (per side):

20540AA090 x2 (camber bolt)

20560AA04A x2 (camber washer)

20550AA010 x2 (camber nut)

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I was in the process of doing this, and I want to add some fresh hardware. I looked up the diagrams and got this. I've already got bushings, but is there anything else you recommend adding to this list?

 

Rear (per side):

902350001 x2 (tophat to body)

902350027 x1 (tophat to suspension)

031012000 x1 (washer for "0027)

 

Rear Lower (per side):

901000177 x1 (suspension to LCA Bolt)

900335056 x1 (suspension to LCA washer)

20550AA010 x1 (suspension to LCA nut)

 

 

Front upper (per side):

902350013 x3 (tophat to body)

902350027 x1 (tophat to suspension)

20326AA120 x1 (tophat cap)

20320AG00A x1 (tophat - if needed)

 

Front lower (per side):

20540AA090 x2 (camber bolt)

20560AA04A x2 (camber washer)

20550AA010 x2 (camber nut)

I have some of these bolts if you're interested. Ended up reusing my stock bolts and can't return now sadly. I think I just have the rear bolts, but I can snap a photo of the invoice for part numbers and PM you tomorrow

 

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk

Edited by funkycharms
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  • 3 months later...
I FINALLY got an 06 OBXT and Im ready to lower it and Ive got access to an 05 LGT for most of these "do it the right way parts". It'll b dailyed and I want to, for the time being, put LGT struts on it and Fortune 500-510s in the near future and I need help on what I have to swap out for lgt struts and if theres anything else Ill need when I get the Fortunes. C'mon y'all, help a brutha out
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What are you actual questions? This thread is the do it right and all the parts you will need to do it thread.

 

If you are asking the bare minimum, it's:

LGT struts and springs (you can reuse your Outback top hats)

 

You will bottom out a bunch with this setup. Highly recommend, Legacy rear bumpstops, Legacy rear upper control arms, after-market rear camber adjustment (whiteline UCA camber bushings, or Megan camber arms, or whiteline camber and toe arms), and a 1/2 inch rear strut spacer and extended studs/bolts for it.

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What are you actual questions? This thread is the do it right and all the parts you will need to do it thread.

 

If you are asking the bare minimum, it's:

LGT struts and springs (you can reuse your Outback top hats)

 

You will bottom out a bunch with this setup. Highly recommend, Legacy rear bumpstops, Legacy rear upper control arms, after-market rear camber adjustment (whiteline UCA camber bushings, or Megan camber arms, or whiteline camber and toe arms), and a 1/2 inch rear strut spacer and extended studs/bolts for it.

 

Aside from some new bolts and such almost exactly the swap I did, pic is potato phone quality but shows the difference from bone stock as I got it and current ride height on top.

1305695361_AfterandB4.thumb.jpg.704ca6d9554706ffb77627d515d3def1.jpg

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Thanx 4 responding. I want 2 know if I should swap out the rear trailing arm plates since they r closer 2 the body 4 the sake of suspension geometry. what "bolts and such" r u talking about exactly? Im trying 2 get a crystal clear picture of how do it so Ill have no unanswered questions. Do u have a log 4 what u did 2 lower your OBXT?
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Thanx 4 responding. I want 2 know if I should swap out the rear trailing arm plates since they r closer 2 the body 4 the sake of suspension geometry. what "bolts and such" r u talking about exactly? Im trying 2 get a crystal clear picture of how do it so Ill have no unanswered questions. Do u have a log 4 what u did 2 lower your OBXT?

 

Please, please write in full sentences. You will get better help the more articulate you are.

 

The minimum you need to lower the Outback right is:

1. Lower shocks (Legacy)

2. Springs for those shocks

3. Legacy Bumpstops

4. Legacy Upper control arm

5. Some sort of rear camber control.

 

There are a bunch of different combinations of parts to satisfy those above requirements. Most of us with lowered Outbacks leave the "Outbackness" - i.e. the body lift on when we drop our cars. A few have done complete conversions to Legacy Spec. It's all about how far you want to go, your time and your budget.

 

Swapping out the rear trailing arm mounting bracket should help the rear wheel to be better centered in the wheel well.

 

"bolts and such" is just because these are now older cars, it's sometimes easier to use new bolts instead of reusing old bolts.

 

However, define your goals for us.

1. If you want to completely remove the Outback body spacers. Follow the directions in this thread.

2. If you just want to lower your Outback, read here (no pictures, because photobucket)

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lgt-wagon-suspension-swapped-into-outback-xt-140548.html

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I might wana go an inch lower than stock LGT ride height at the most cuz I dont wana have speed bump/driveway clearance issues and it does snow a bit here in Richmond, Va. so thats a consideration as well. Ultimately, Im wana get height adjustable coilovers (Fortune Autos likely but that price) in the future but closer 2 earth is the immediate goal. How necessary r the camber adjustable bushings 4 the rear upper control arms now and is it mostly 4 clearance w/the rear wheel arches and molding?

Thanks y'all

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I keep answering your question with the same information and you keep asking the same question. Are you just looking for more people to confirm what I am saying. Anyway, I'll reiterate:

 

Minimum, LGT shocks + whatever springs you feel like.

Issues that you WILL run into with this set-up

Issues 1 - rear travel: due to the Outback rear bump stop and UCA you have about 2 inches less travel than a LGT.

Fix: Legacy bump stops and upper control arm (UCA)

 

Note: being an inch lower than a Legacy will make this a lot worse/ Especially if you ever carry people and gear in your car.

 

Issue 2. There is no rear camber control stock on these cars. That means when you lower your car three-four inches you will have extreme amounts of camber. This will cause excessive tire wear and with stock sized tires (225/55/17) you will run into inside fender clearance.

Fix: rear camber bushings (cheap and sort of effective) or camber arms (whiteline or megan).

 

Note: I am slightly higher than Legacy and I have worn away my inner fender liners due to rubbing when I carry cargo. I have the Whiteline bushings. I am fixing this by installing Whiteline camber arms.

 

So once again,

The minimum you need to lower the Outback right is:

1. Lower shocks (Legacy)

2. Springs for those shocks

3. Legacy Bumpstops

4. Legacy Upper control arm

5. Some sort of rear camber control.

 

Unless, the above issues sound like you are willing to live with them. In that case just get LGT shocks + whatever springs you want (an inch lower than a Legacy is very low on an Outback with Outback sized tires) and deal with the resulting tire wear and inner fender rub.

 

Quick grammar lesson because it's starting to piss me off. 4 does not equal for. 4 is actually four. It's a number not a preposition. We don't ask for much, but please stop writing like you are texting.

 

I did some minor fixing of your post below. See how much easier it is to read?

 

I might want to go an inch lower than stock LGT ride height, because I don't want to have speed bump/driveway clearance issues and it does snow a bit here in Richmond, Va. So, that's a consideration as well. Ultimately, I want to get height adjustable coilovers (Fortune Autos likely but that price) in the future. Closer to earth is the immediate goal. How necessary are the camber adjustable bushings for the rear upper control arms? Is it mostly for clearance w/the rear wheel arches and molding?

Thanks y'all

Edited by Rhitter
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I might wana go an inch lower than stock LGT ride height at the most cuz I dont wana have speed bump/driveway clearance issues and it does snow a bit here in Richmond, Va. so thats a consideration as well. Ultimately, Im wana get height adjustable coilovers (Fortune Autos likely but that price) in the future but closer 2 earth is the immediate goal. How necessary r the camber adjustable bushings 4 the rear upper control arms now and is it mostly 4 clearance w/the rear wheel arches and molding?

Thanks y'all

 

I have a ready to install setup that may fit your needs...

 

Tokico HT-S Struts with TEIN-H Springs and top hats

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I keep answering your question with the same information and you keep asking the same question. Are you just looking for more people to confirm what I am saying. Anyway, I'll reiterate:

 

Minimum, LGT shocks + whatever springs you feel like.

Issues that you WILL run into with this set-up

Issues 1 - rear travel: due to the Outback rear bump stop and UCA you have about 2 inches less travel than a LGT.

Fix: Legacy bump stops and upper control arm (UCA)

 

Note: being an inch lower than a Legacy will make this a lot worse/ Especially if you ever carry people and gear in your car.

 

Issue 2. There is no rear camber control stock on these cars. That means when you lower your car three-four inches you will have extreme amounts of camber. This will cause excessive tire wear and with stock sized tires (225/55/17) you will run into inside fender clearance.

Fix: rear camber bushings (cheap and sort of effective) or camber arms (whiteline or megan).

 

Note: I am slightly higher than Legacy and I have worn away my inner fender liners do to rubbing when I carry cargo. I have the Whiteline bushings. I am fixing this by installing Whiteline camber arms.

 

So once again,

The minimum you need to lower the Outback right is:

1. Lower shocks (Legacy)

2. Springs for those shocks

3. Legacy Bumpstops

4. Legacy Upper control arm

5. Some sort of rear camber control.

 

Unless, the above issues sound like you are willing to live with them. In that case just get LGT shocks + whatever springs you want (an inch lower than a Legacy is very low on an Outback with Outback sized tires) and deal with the resulting tire wear and inner fender rub.

 

Quick grammar lesson because it's starting to piss me off. 4 does not equal for. 4 is actually four. It's a number not a preposition. We don't ask for much, but please stop writing like you are texting.

 

I did some minor fixing of your post below. See how much easier it is to read?

 

Thanks 4 the all info u blessed me w/on a subject Im clearly ignorant of, but not your limited tolerance that ignorance, culminating n a lovely soliloquy of condescension BUT n ur haste u 2 point that out, u didn't answer the question I asked your smartish ass which was about the immediate need 4 adjustable camber bushings on the rear upper control arm 4 which I still eagerly aw8. I thought this was cool place where the"each 1 teach 1" philosophy was the main reason 4 its existence and not where posts r graded. So if the way I choose 2 express myself, in context no less, "pisses u off", then have a Coke and smile and STFU cuz u r under <0 obligation 2 respond, u chose 2 respond, which Im thankful 4. So u gonna b an adult (love that juxtaposition dont u) and get over the minutia or have an icy cold Coke:icon_ques

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