Oil Change Intervals & Turbo Operation Tips

[JJr]

Welcome 5400 miles, wow, Barn find! Change it, get the good stuff in. Been using Rotella T6 5w-40, 84k, does not use or burn oil, OCI 3.5k, pulled the banjo filter and changed the UP to a STI catless. What did you pay for it. I'm changing my timing belt at 105 months ( 3/14) just like SOA suggests. I wonder what everyone would say about this LGT with 8.8k change the belt or leave it.

GL great buy, enjoy the car.

[seabass07]

I see a service bulletin on Amsoil's site saying, "Subaru has since published Service Bulletin #02-110-10R indicating that 2010 MY and prior turbocharged engines continue to require oil and filter change intervals of 3,750 miles". I called Amsoil about this and the tech said to follow what the service manual says so which is it? Heed the service bulletin or I'm ok changing every 7500 (5000 by my method)?

 

Anything else I should be aware of being a new Subie owner?

 

Dan

 

Go by the service bulletin, not the manual. They did the bulletin for a reason, huge numbers of turbo failures. And get that shitty mobile 5w30 out of there.

[Gasaraki]

I use full synthetic and I change my oil every 3,333 miles give or take. But i'm anal like that.

[bluesubie]

I'm the new owner of a 2005 Legacy GT 5-speed manual. Bought it just last week with only 5400 miles on it - yup, you read that right. Flew to Ohio to pick it up and drove it 2400 miles back to California. Before I picked up the car the dealer changed the oil with standard Mobil 5W30.

 

Manual suggests oil changes at 7500 miles but I'll do 5000 if only because it's easier to remember.

 

Questions: Is the oil that's in there now ok until 10,000 miles or do I want to get that regular stuff out of there and replace it now with the good stuff?

 

I see a service bulletin on Amsoil's site saying, "Subaru has since published Service Bulletin #02-110-10R indicating that 2010 MY and prior turbocharged engines continue to require oil and filter change intervals of 3,750 miles". I called Amsoil about this and the tech said to follow what the service manual says so which is it? Heed the service bulletin or I'm ok changing every 7500 (5000 by my method)?

 

Anything else I should be aware of being a new Subie owner?

 

Dan

Yes, do NOT run Resource Conserving Mobil1 5W-30 unless you drive like an old lady or drive easy highway miles. Use Mobil1 0W-40.

 

But since you changed the oil already, drive about 1,000 miles and add some 0W-40 or 15W-50 if it burns/consumes oil. Check the oil level weekly. Regardless of what you decide to do, do not run Mobil1 5W-30 beyond 3,750 miles.

 

Like seabass says, the oil change interval in the manual has been superceded.

http://drive2.subaru.com/Sum08/Sum08_Turbo.htm

 

You can probably extend the interval if you use a robust oil like Mobil1 xW-40, Rotella T6 5W-40, or German/Belgian Castrol 0W-30/0W-40.

 

-Dennis

[dcgt05]

Thanks everyone for your feedback and links - much appreciated. For JJr who asked, I paid $15,776 before service plan, taxes and fees and taxes on fees that brought it up closer to $18K. Here's the crazy thing - I had another one in my sights that I test drove just 45 mins. from home. 87K miles asking $12K. Had an appointment to get it checked by a mechanic before buying. Was screwing around online not even looking for another car when the *new listing* on AutoTrader popped up.

 

JJr - what is "changed the UP to a STI catless"? Does this deal with the screen getting clogged as mentioned in the service bulletin or the 3750 oci still needs to be followed?

[Captain Ned]

JJr - what is "changed the UP to a STI catless"? Does this deal with the screen getting clogged as mentioned in the service bulletin or the 3750 oci still needs to be followed?

The UP, or uppipe, runs from where the 2 exhaust manifolds meet to the hot side of the turbo. It was common in the pre-10 turbos (big change in plumbing for the '10-'12 LGTs) to change out this pipe for quicker spooling or to remove the cat that sits before the turbo to eliminate any chance of turbo damage due to the cat falling apart.

 

Since you live in Cali, pulling any cat would likely get you in trouble with the smog cops.

[JJr]

Thanks everyone for your feedback and links - much appreciated. For JJr who asked, I paid $15,776 before service plan, taxes and fees and taxes on fees that brought it up closer to $18K. Here's the crazy thing - I had another one in my sights that I test drove just 45 mins. from home. 87K miles asking $12K. Had an appointment to get it checked by a mechanic before buying. Was screwing around online not even looking for another car when the *new listing* on AutoTrader popped up.

 

JJr - what is "changed the UP to a STI catless"? Does this deal with the screen getting clogged as mentioned in the service bulletin or the 3750 oci still needs to be followed?

 

Wow what a deal, basically brand new, ask the dealer about all the time sensitive services (ie. timing belt change I'm curious what they will say) Since what a UP is was explained, you may not be able to change it out if you have a service contract (check with the dealer you bought it from) In 2007 they removed the catted UP from the LGT, I don't think that changing to a cattless UP would make any difference in passing smog in Cali either the STi UP looks the same. How come so few miles?

[dcgt05]

Apparently the car was picked up at auction. No idea why it's been sitting around for so long with so little mileage - would love to know. Maybe I'll cyber stalk the original owner and ask... Dealer replaced all fluids, checked and cleaned the brakes, and replaced the "drive belt(s)".

 

Read all the links you guys sent - thanks. I got a kick out of the two service bulletins emphasizing the importance of proper orientation of the screen in the banjo bolt with clear pictures showing them in completely opposite positions on each bulletin.

[Xcasinonightzone]

wow. this thread has been informative and useful. I have used mobil1 5w-30 since I bought it 3 years ago and it looks like that is about to change. To be honest, my last oil change was at a 6k interval, and the one before that was at 5k, always 3k before that, the last two were just out of pure laziness and lack of time. Should I be worried? Anything I should look for?

[bluesubie]

wow. this thread has been informative and useful. I have used mobil1 5w-30 since I bought it 3 years ago and it looks like that is about to change. To be honest, my last oil change was at a 6k interval, and the one before that was at 5k, always 3k before that, the last two were just out of pure laziness and lack of time. Should I be worried? Anything I should look for?

You're probably fine but a used oil analysis is a better indicator to tell you the condition of your oil than asking us.

 

The GF5 oils that came out a couple of years ago are actually showing decent uoa results (although I still prefer a more robust oil for my application). Depending on your particular application (mods, driving conditions, etc.) that 6k interval could have been pushing it a bit. If you happend to be using the High Mileage M1 5W-30, then that oil is a bit more robust. Higher High Temp High Shear, higher viscosity at 100C, and higher levels of ZDDP than the regular stuff.

 

-Dennis

[Xcasinonightzone]

You're probably fine but a used oil analysis is a better indicator to tell you the condition of your oil than asking us.

 

The GF5 oils that came out a couple of years ago are actually showing decent uoa results (although I still prefer a more robust oil for my application). Depending on your particular application (mods, driving conditions, etc.) that 6k interval could have been pushing it a bit. If you happend to be using the High Mileage M1 5W-30, then that oil is a bit more robust. Higher High Temp High Shear, higher viscosity at 100C, and higher levels of ZDDP than the regular stuff.

 

-Dennis

 

 

Thanks for the response! Just sent a request to Blackstone for a free testing kit. I'll let the thread know what it says.