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dcgt05

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Everything posted by dcgt05

  1. Thank you! I've had my car for several years and this never happened before so I thought maybe a fuse went out or whatever makes that sound might have to be replaced but this simple fix did it! So weird that it happened. I wonder how. Anyway, I'm back to good - much appreciated.
  2. I'm sure this topic is listed somewhere already but I was unable to find it. Anyway... All of a sudden today, my 2005 stopped beeping when using the key fob to lock or unlock. It still works - the car will lock / unlock and the lights will flash but no audible cues. Any idea why and how to fix? Thanks. dc
  3. Ok, I see it now. I just didn't scroll down far enough. 1 of 108! Way better than 1 of 200! Except when someone dings or scratches the car it hurts more.
  4. Where exactly is the sticky? I want to look up my car. Sorry I'm probably asking an obvious question. I'm just not on forums very often. I looked at the top of the 'Fourth Generation Legacy' section. I looked up my car years ago and thought I read it was one of 200 but can't remember where, exactly. I live in Los Angeles and found my car at a dealership outside of Cleveland. 5,000 miles. I thought it was a typo but the saleswoman confirmed it. I'm not impulsive but I put down a deposit on the spot and flew out there to pick it up and drive it back.
  5. Would really prefer not to take apart the headliner but appears I may not have to. I called ReRack.com (can't remember how I came across them - the amount I've been Googling a solution is a complete blur). They were super helpful and I'm going to pick up a used Yakima Locking EZ Rider Flush Rail Tower Set for $70 plus the lock/key setup for another $70 and looks like I can pick up compatible cross bars on eBay for around $50. More than I wanted to spend but less than $200 for a setup that seems reliable and maybe more importantly, COMPATIBLE!!!
  6. Yup. Exact same car (assuming it's a 5MT did you know we've each got 1 of 200 ever made in this exact style/color?), same rails. So are those sedan mounts front and back or just the front and you've got something else on the back? If this is a pair, got a link to these? Junkyard is a thought. Think it's easy enough to swap out the rails or is that a whole deal? Hard to tell just looking at them. This is such a great car and a limited release but drives me crazy how hard it is to find stinkin' cross bars and my 2003 Honda Element has an AUX in for the radio but not the Subie. But that's another topic.
  7. 2005 Legacy GT wagon. I've literally spent a week now searching on eBay, Amazon, Craigslist, and 3rd party vendor sites and can't track down what should be a super simple find. Everything seems to be for raised rails, even so called universal mounts. There are also mounts that I believe fit in the rain gutters but I have existing rails on the car so I want to use them and keep additional hardware off the body and for all I know, they'd get in the way anyhow. I don't care what brand and I don't care how they look, only that they're in good condition so they don't go flying off the roof of the car and that they don't cost stupid money like options from Thule and Yakima (over $200 for just cross bars? really?). Sincerely appreciate any help!
  8. I'll take the info (thanks) but a friend of mine has the bike rack component so it appears all I need are the cross bars for the existing roof rails. As mentioned, I see a number of options for less than $100 (that budget works for me!), just none that look like they attach to the style I have. Or maybe they do. I just don't know enough about this gear because I haven't had to buy it before.
  9. Sorry, I wasn't clear. I meant are the rails fairly standard to have cross bars attached to them. That being said, looks like the answer may be no because I'm having a tough time finding appropriate cross bars because everything I find seems to be compatible with rails that have a gap between the roof the rails themselves. This ain't rocket science but I'm feeling pretty dumb. So my current goal is to simply find a set of cross bars that are compatible with the existing rails and hopefully on the inexpensive side because all I'm putting up there is a single bike. Lots of options less than $70 but everything I'm finding is for those rails with the gap.
  10. It's like I'm looking at my car but with a sweet Thule rack on it. First question...are the rails (the ones running front to back that the cross bars are attached to) something that came with the car stock or you had to add them? I bought mine used so I have no idea. Just curious. Second question...are the rails something fairly standard and you just find any ol' bike rack to add to them or they have to be specific to this setup?
  11. 2005 wagon with roof rails (no idea if these are stock or were put on after the fact - doesn't matter, I guess). Leaning towards a roof mount option but I do have a sun roof I need to be cautious of. Curious what other people have done. I don't plan on doing a ton of biking so don't want to drop a lot of money on this but I'll get what I need for something safe and reliable. Don't love the idea of rear mount in fear of chipping paint or other damage. Pricing for both a hitch plus bike rack is looking like $500+. Thanks for ideas and pictures.
  12. I'm highly allergic to paying stupid prices for cheap parts. I did find a pretty good deal on some used handles through eBay and got those as backup but after realizing that the handle was totally fine aside from the bottom hole being blown out, I simply got a $2 bracket at the hardware store and a washer. I cut the bracket with a Dremel and shaped it on my bench grinder for the bottom hole and used the washer as is for the top hole just to reinforce it. Glued in place with JB Weld and voila! No way this handle is going to fail now. I may even do the same thing to the other handles just to reinforce them.
  13. Those prices are great! I bet even with shipping it's still a good deal compared to what I'm finding here in the US.
  14. Daaamn...literally 2 screws to just pull it out and the part itself can't be worth more than $5 manufactured. That's a F of a markup! This might motivate me to just make one out of wood, as if I have time for that...
  15. This plastic part is so poorly made I wouldn't be surprised if all of us have suffered the vertical pull handle break. Any ideas on where to get this part without paying an arm and a leg? I've Googled all over but can't seem to find a good source. To clarify, this is the part you grab with the rubberized grip to open/close the door - basically a vertical post.
  16. Thanks for the tip! Here's the link... 44K seems like really low mileage for anything to fail. I live in Los Angeles so I guess it's a good mix of city and highway driving.
  17. Trying to upload a short video so you can hear the noise but it keeps failing. I'm getting a second opinion this weekend from another mechanic I've used for years so that should settle the issue. Car is at (ready for this?) 44K miles, OEM everything (except the air filter and an electronic boost upgrade). Seems odd anything regarding the clutch would start to fail so early and I do not abuse this car at all when driving. I drive it fast but I don't peel out and burn up the clutch. I'm hoping that at such low mileage I will only have to replace the bearing because everything else will be a-ok. Love the idea of doing it myself but simply do not have the time and can't afford any problems if I run into trouble.
  18. Thanks for your thoughts on this. I'll have to post a video tomorrow but if (when) I do get it fixed, do you have a rough idea what I'm looking at for cost? I know it depends on where I am, who the mechanic is, etc. but am I looking at a $200-ish repair, an $800-ish repair, or somewhere in between? The mechanic said because it's quite a bit of work to pull it apart I may as well replace the clutch while I'm at it but if the clutch is ok and it's just the bearing, would I be saving enough to justify just replacing the bearing?
  19. It makes that noise at the slightest touch and doesn't seem to really change much throughout the range of travel. What does that mean and what do I need to think about it?
  20. All I know is the mechanic said pilot bearing. He didn't even think there was a problem and I had to point it out. I suppose that's how subtle it is though to me driving it every day, I notice it like it's screaming at me. The slightest press on the pedal will initiate the noise. Possible it's not wearing out and somehow it's just noisy now?
  21. I'm experiencing a sort of light scratching / whining / grinding noise when I depress the clutch. It also feels like the clutch isn't as tight just as it engages. Took it to a mechanic who said it's just the pilot bearing but otherwise the clutch is fine and I shouldn't do anything until I experience something more significant. Wondering how concerned I should be about this. Anyone else ever have this experience? I'd like to trust the mechanic and appreciate he's not trying to throw my car on the lift and empty my wallet but also don't want to experience a catastrophic failure far from home.
  22. This is what I'm talking about. Spray adhesive would be too messy. I think I need something I can apply along the sagging part and just push it back into place. For some reason this picture uploaded sideways. Turn your head to the left 90 degrees.
  23. Some of the foam door trim/weather stripping has come unglued and is sagging. Minor repair but not sure what's best to glue it back. Any suggestions? Obviously I want something that won't eat into the foam and will also hold up to high heat in the summer.
  24. Popped my cabin air filter cherry today. It was a pain but not too terrible and I didn't have to pull apart the entire dash, thankfully. Anyway, the only reason I even thought about doing this is the dealer mentioned it in their notes a few years back when I had the car in for something entirely different. It was dirty as hell and my question is, how did they know? Is there some way to get eyes on the filter to see the condition without pulling the glove box apart? Or did they just assume this based on the age of the car and their records having never done it? How often should it be changed on average? I live in LA where there's plenty of pollution but not so dusty. I'm thinking once every couple of years but I don't really know.
  25. Just to be clear (because I went to AutoZone today to check out the options), the recommendation for "POWER STEERING FLUID" is to use "AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID"? That's what the manual says - just don't wanna do something really stupid. And it mentions "Dexron III" compatibility. I was looking at the back of a bottle of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and it said recommended for use in applications requiring Dexron IIIH and Dexron IIIG. What's the difference? Do I even care so long as it has "Dexron III" in the name?
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