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CapnJack

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Curious what you guys would do. Install better C02 monitoring / encapsulate the asbestos ducts and run it into the ground? Or gut the whole heating system and replace it? I have had three different HVAC people look at the system and they all say the same thing - strongly recommend replacing. But, then I have my Dad who says leave it alone.

 

There is a gas-fired furnace in the subfloor area. This is a forced-air unit with a blower to

distribute conditioned air through a ducting system. The furnace is in the crawlspace. The input capacity is rated at 100,000 BTUs.

The furnace was manufactured in 1991; it is in very worn condition.

 

Not equipped with a safety disconnect switch to allow servicing; we recommend a proper disconnect switch be installed on the electrical power provided to this unit. The furnace has an outdated brass gas connector, which may fail and cause gas leakage and we

recommend a new, proper gas supply connector be installed.

 

The heat exchanger in the furnace is very rusted. We advise installing carbon monoxide detectors in several interior rooms to warn occupants if the exchanger produces hazardous gases. Heat exchangers should be carefully examined as part of routine servicing. Only a small portion of a typical heat exchanger is accessible to visual inspection and unobserved holes or cracks may be present.

 

The ducting is the rigid type, which is wrapped with an apparent asbestos material. The ducting is not insulated and has many poorly sealed or unsealed joints and connections, which will reduce system efficiency.

 

Lox Nox (?) rods have deteriorated and are laying on the burners causing some rollout.

 

Fan limit control is not working correcting. Fan stays on for 20 minutes after the heater turns off.

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Asbestos is fine as long as it's not disturbed. In my first house (54 years old in 2001 when purchased) we had coated duct work probably just like yours Rhitter. We just left them alone when we replaced the furnace. At one point I added a vent to a bathroom I was remodeling and just carefully encapsulated and removed a small portion of the asbestos around a duct where I was tapping in for the new one.
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I'm not sure about keeping the ducts but it can be tough to replace them too. Whatever you do with them is probably going to cause you to have asbestos fibers flying around in your house - even keeping them. And if you have a kid you shouldn't take any chances. If you were old and retired then it wouldn't matter - you would probably pass from other stuff.
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How many ducts, how long, etc? Is it really that much for abatement?

 

Don't have a quote yet, most have guessed around $1.5-2k. About 100 feet. Maybe a little less. One of the runs is a giant 12-18 inch pipe. The asbestos is deteriorating and starting to fall of in some (just a few) places.

 

Home inspector mentioned on the down low to just encapsulate it and move on.

 

I'm not sure about keeping the ducts but it can be tough to replace them too. Whatever you do with them is probably going to cause you to have asbestos fibers flying around in your house - even keeping them. And if you have a kid you shouldn't take any chances. If you were old and retired then it wouldn't matter - you would probably pass from other stuff.

 

I have 0 experience with this and this is what I am most concerned with.

Edited by Rhitter
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Talk to a pro about encapsulation and letting be. It may adversely effect your home value at time of sale however.

 

I think your estimate is low btw. Ductwork and pipework are pricey.

 

In the bay area, anything sells, no matter how shitty. You want to do enough work that it causes a bidding war :D. Every house goes for 10-50% over asking.

 

The $1.5-$2k was just for abatement. I have a quote for $2k for all new flexible ductwork, which as far as I know isn't as good as the hard sided stuff that I have.

Edited by Rhitter
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Wishing I was home to be able to help my dad out with some of the projects hes been doing the past couple weekend. Just been getting picture updates. He replaced the rear sliding door with french doors.

 

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Then took out and walled in a window in the kitchen.

 

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Then took down all the old cabinets and is getting ready to put up new ones as well as a new counter along the wall where the window was filled in.

 

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Currently next to the fridge is a temporary island that we got years ago to add counter space but I believe the plan after the new counters are in and the cabinets in that it will no longer be in the kitchen. All the old cabinets are also being taken out to the garage to add storage space out there.

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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Built some shelves in my basement Friday on my day off. I had the guy at Home Depot rip the OSB down to 2x8 footers because their panel saw will make it straighter than me with a circular saw. :lol::rolleyes:

 

Again, not crazy about fasteners supporting the load so I made it a bit better by Liquid Nailing all wood-wood contact other than the OSB tops to the frames. Most of the stuff that will be on here is lighter (holiday decorations, etc) but I do have tools and whatnot on some of it. Worst case, I add some more legs in the middle of the spans to help support it all.

 

For those who want to build something similar:

28-30 8ft 2x4s

4 sheets OSB/plywood ripped to 2x8 feet

250+ deck screws (frame)

Drywall screws (secure OSB to frame)

2 10oz tubes of Liquid Nails

 

Rounds out to about $150-$170 depending on what you get, which isn't bad considering rinky dink wire shelf units that are 18" deep by 48" wide by 60" tall or whatever are $80...

 

Last pic is starting to organize my stuff and moving it off my work bench so I can, like, actually work at it. I was looking around the basement for containers of some type to put all my miscellaneous plumbing and electrical bits into until I realized I have a bunch of empty paintball boxes... perfect. :lol: It also shows that dreadful terracotta clay block I'm stuck with - the white Drylok makes it tolerable down there and seem much brighter and bigger.

 

I've got 80+ 22oz beer bottles off camera on the shelf waiting for my next brew session too. :cool:

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Talk to a pro about encapsulation and letting be. It may adversely effect your home value at time of sale however.

 

I think your estimate is low btw. Ductwork and pipework are pricey.

 

You were right, low estimate for ductwork. This is what it has come out to. Option 1 leave it all alone just install a new furnace (and dedicated electrical), Option 2 do everything else.

 

Unsure what I'll do.

 

http://i.imgur.com/uhHCx2V.png?1

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Seems cheap for abatement of that much stuff.

 

I'd be inclined to have it removed because upon selling your house, I think the value would be negatively impacted more than $2,000. Plus new, high efficiency ducting, etc is a selling point... albeit at a $5,400+ expense.

 

It's easy to spend others' money...

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agreed. abatement portion seems cheap. Who's doing it? Make sure it's a licensed abatement contractor. Abatement prices are ALL over the place too. Get a quote on your own for the abatement portion to see if you can shave off a few bucks.
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