Rhitter Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 I only bought two 2x12s. I made sure I marked them correctly before cutting because I didn't want to have to borrow my neighbor's truck again to buy another I goofed up a couple cuts (kerf on the wrong side of the line) but for the most part, they came out pretty good for my first try. The basement floor not being level side to side doesn't help. Kerf was the hardest part. I tired drawing arrows to reminding myself which side to stay on, but between saw dust in my eyes and position who knows. It worked out well enough it "feels" level while walking on it. That's all that matters. If prior owners knew, they needed to disclose that shit Unless you can find a receipt sitting around, that sounds super hard to prove. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Receipt for what? Fire repairs? Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 NYS has a bullshit Property Condition Disclosure Statement form that they are required to fill out. It has every possible condition that can happen in a house. The homeowner can either fill it out and take all liability for everything in the house - or they can give the buyer a $500 credit and waive the form. Obviously everyone waives it. Anyways, our den is right below those joists - there is sheetrock dated 1998 on it. They lived in the house since 91. I'm gonna try to find a date on the ceiling sheetrock and prove that they remodeled knowing about the fire. We called the fire department and they have a fire on record from 89. We actually spoke to a lawyer and said the only way we could actually bring a full blown lawsuit against them is to prove they purposely misled us, or get a structural engineer to say the house is structurally deficient. I'm working on both. Alternative is to take everyone to small claims court - looking at that too. Sucks so hard. So much money has gone into fixing problems caused by the fire. All of which were hidden under paneling or carpet or missed by the inspector. It's insane. If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Most states have pretty rigid disclosure laws I think That sucks man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 NYS has a bullshit Property Condition Disclosure Statement form that they are required to fill out. It has every possible condition that can happen in a house. The homeowner can either fill it out and take all liability for everything in the house - or they can give the buyer a $500 credit and waive the form. Obviously everyone waives it. Anyways, our den is right below those joists - there is sheetrock dated 1998 on it. They lived in the house since 91. I'm gonna try to find a date on the ceiling sheetrock and prove that they remodeled knowing about the fire. We called the fire department and they have a fire on record from 89. We actually spoke to a lawyer and said the only way we could actually bring a full blown lawsuit against them is to prove they purposely misled us, or get a structural engineer to say the house is structurally deficient. I'm working on both. Alternative is to take everyone to small claims court - looking at that too. Sucks so hard. So much money has gone into fixing problems caused by the fire. All of which were hidden under paneling or carpet or missed by the inspector. It's insane. I'd take a fire damage over termites though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Welp, stairs are done. I didn't realize until the second tread was on that I had a massive brain fart aaaaand something was screwed up. I misread the stair calculator website I used and my treads were 1/2" too short on the depth. I was planning on using a 2x10 for a 9.25" deep tread to satisfy the 9" code minimum. With my rise/run, I actually needed treads 9.75" deep to meet my 3/4" target nosing, so as it is, I only have a 1/4" nose... figured I'd confess I goofed up before some astute person in here notices "Hey, something looks off"... Should anyone be building steps in the future, I think these two sites are great. I stole the "hanger board" idea from the first link and used the second one to calculate/lay out my stringers. http://www.carpentry-pro-framer.com/stairs.html http://www.blocklayer.com/stairs/StairsEng.aspx Pic 1: The hole or trench or whatever you want to call it in the floor. It looks like they used brick remnants to make a foundation for the stringers and then poured the floor. Yuck. I patched this up and waiting for it to dry before installing the stringers. Pic 2: Starting point, before hanger board installed. Pic 3: Hanger board in, copious amounts of glue and screws. Rickety wood ladder to get in and out for the time being. Pic 4 & 5: Stringers in. I didn't get a picture of the "cleat" I put at the bottom to keep the stringers from washing out, but there's a pressure treated 2x4 under the last tread that's screwed to the concrete. Again, tons of glue anywhere there is wood/wood contact because I don't want any squeaks. Pic 6 & 7: Finished product Pic 8: Pour one out for my Diablo demo/framing blade... I broke a carbide tip off one of the teeth, somehow. Just need some trim work, put up some walls going down the steps, bead board, and I'm going to call it done. Then I can start building shelves and a new work bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 figured i'd throw in a little good instead of my problems. finished up the nursery a day before he was born (3 weeks early!) before: During: After: If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 27, 2016 I Donated Share Posted October 27, 2016 Why did you go down to the studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I built a thing to clean up some things. Yes, the fasteners are bearing the load but I'm not storing engine components or cinder blocks on these, so there's not much load/weight on them. I somehow bought the 92-5/8 studs versus the 8 footers sooooo these aren't quite 48" long - 46" - but I used up the extra sheet of OSB I had leaned on the wall. Good for getting mostly holiday stuff up out of the way. I found some plans that I slightly modified for my use/space. If you want to build the full width ones, two 4x8 sheets of plywood or OSB, 13 2x4s, box of 2.5" deck screws totaling ~$85, plus a couple hours gets you 4 shelves, 2 feet deep by 8 feet long plus 4 legs. Pretty cheap for the amount of space you get - twice the storage space for the same price when compared to those wire rack kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Looks good! you should do an entire wall of them. My buddy did custom wood shelves in his basement, and it looks pretty bad ass, and of course, they're super useful! Nothing takes just two hours. The easiest projects end up tying me up for a day for some stupid reason!!! My buddy used to own a retail store, so I have about 3-4 commercial metal racks in our basement, they work pretty well for big stuff. To be honest, those $40 plastic racks that hold like 800 pounds are pretty damn good too. They are moisture resistant too, which is nice when your parking it on concrete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 The feet were made out of some scrap pressure treated 2x4s I had. Everything I plan on building in my basement that contacts the floor will be pressure treated or somehow isolated from the concrete after seeing what moisture does to wood (my old steps)... I plan on building another two sets of these, just 8 feet long each, 4 shelves high, to store other junk on, just to the right of where these current shelves are. I have an odd length of basement wall between the current shelf and to the right that I'm not totally sure what to do with. Work bench, more shelves/storage, etc... I haven't decided. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Why did you go down to the studs? Photos don't show how bad the walls were. 3/8" sheetrock with about 4 layers of wallpaper and even more layers of paint. It was easier to replace the rock than fix the walls. And it allowed me to re-wire the rooms. The whole house has a mix of aluminum and copper. If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I attached a quick doodle of my basement, kind of to scale. I known for a fact that the space I have to play with (currently totally empty) is 17x25 with about 25x12 covered in 9x9", likely asbestos floor tile. I thought about putting more shelves in that corner, moving the work bench over there along with more shelves... All kinds of stuff. If I move the work bench, l might frame in a little room where the current bench is and make a man cave out of it - wall it off from the steps toward the furnace, then straight toward the cellar. Any idea what asbestos abatement costs for flooring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 9X9 will also likely have it in the mastic adhesive too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 It's all over the place. $5 a square foot or so, dependent on how affixed they are, and whether the mastic is hot too. I've seen over $10... And as low as a few bucks., Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 My neighbor had similar tile but half as much... he said his all popped up whole, 99% of the time so no (minimal) fibers floating around. The mastic had to be chipped off the floor with a 6" chisel which I'd rather not do. I thought about soaking them with a hose and soap, popping them up, asbestos-friendly landfill, and then getting one of those wet concrete grinders and grinding the mastic off but that all seems like a TON of work (even more mess) and something that just makes sense to pay someone to do it the totally right way. The tiles are in good condition so I thought about leaving them too... just a couple popping toward the corner where I had a water problem a long time ago. Part of the reason for moving the work bench there was sweeping up dust and such is a lot easier on those tiles than on concrete, wiping up paint, etc, but then I've read constantly sweeping could fray the edges of the tiles and get fibers in the air... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Put flooring on top of the tile if still stuck down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Put flooring on top of the tile if still stuck down. This. I know an abatement contractor or two. You really don't want fibers floating around your house and lungs. Nasty shit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Rent an electric hammer with a spade chisel. I did that for removing ceramic tile and tile mastic from the post tension slab in my last house before I installed a floating hardwood floor. It worked well, but use ear protection. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 And learn about containment, disposal, negative air, and personal protective equipment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Rent an electric hammer with a spade chisel. I did that for removing ceramic tile and tile mastic from the post tension slab in my last house before I installed a floating hardwood floor. It worked well, but use ear protection. That works very well for hard tile. I used an air chisel and my air compressor to do a small room once. It was MUCH better than doing it with a hammer and chisel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Yeah, come to think of it, it wasn't an electric hammer, it was an air chisel. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I bought a cheap one on amazon for like $40. Worked great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Abatement is overrated, floor tile was one of the safest uses asbestos. Covered over with luan it's even safer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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