el5y Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Plan ahead on the shower. If you are really going to try for something like that you need to add extra bracing behind the tile where the glass door is going to be mounted. I just checked with a local glass company and they said we would need to add that bracing unfortunately we didn't so they won't do the install unless we tear open the walls and put it in. Doh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Welp, here are the long-awaited moldy room pictures. I'll have to get some of the finished state. The first picture is the same view as the third one. The second one is just left of camera from those two. Front and right of camera are clay block walls with waterproofing paint where there were 3/4 x 1.5" furring strips nailed directly to them, where the 1/8" veneer paneling was then nailed to that. The glass block windows' base row of mortar crumbled away allowing a lot of water in, and thus mold. The third picture is about 12 feet of it, where the wall right of camera had another 30 or so. Just on the other side of the wall (second picture) was another 15 or so covered by cabinets and a half-bath. While tearing it out (before I realized I was over my head) I found some newspapers used as shims by the builders dated 1942. They were only about 1.5" wide so nothing I could really read other than realizing most of the context was about the war. Cool stuff though. I think I've posted the last two pictures... that's all the stuff the mold remediation company took out of the basement... 20 foot dumpster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) The first three pictures are of the room as I started. This is where I began re-wiring the main floor bedrooms with romex in an effort to ditch as much knob and tube as possible. Yes, the room is bubble gum pink with brown shag. Fourth is the light I rigged up after re-wiring so I could paint and work on the floor. I think the ceiling was still wet at this point. Next two pictures are the color I painted (medium grey) along with rolling up the carpet and carpet pad... I was really anxious to see the condition of the original 1940's hardwood underneath. I took these pictures a week or two ago before I put the crown molding up (this past weekend) so no pics of that thus far. End plan is to put up some stretched canvas prints (black and white of course) of Cleveland and turn it into my office/man cave. I'll eventually have a black/brushed nickel ceiling fan up there, black or dark grey couch, wall mounted TV and my current, black/brushed nickel computer desk. I can't wait. I tried to get a close up of the condition of the floor... it's fairly worn (dirty from pad crumbling) so I definitely need to re-finish the floors... no big deal. Plan is to sand to bare wood and just poly over it with no stain... considering the bolder colors I'm planning for the hallway and living room, the lighter floor (white oak) is going to look really nice and balance it out I think. Last picture was my girlfriend's handiwork this weekend. The bed was about half as far from the house as it is now... she cut out a lot of grass and re-shaped it along with transferring a bush from the back yard. I traded a couple beers to my neighbor for his extra patio pavers for a simple edging for the time being. My girlfriend has big plans for this area... I just hope she's up to the task of maintaining it because I don't like doing anything like that. Mowing and weed whacking, fertilizing, sure. Gardening, hell no. Edited May 27, 2014 by baconbits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggerdan11 Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 I have been super busy in the last month. Im moving to PDX before the end of the year, and I had to finish my house so I can get it on the market: Bathroom Gut and Re-Model http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/5CC72E5C-D406-4CEA-8EF6-A9A64F754FEA_zpskpywemhv.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/0B4D1732-CAC0-4D44-9C3D-AA6C7D7BFE0A_zps6lrby9up.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/15DFA6CD-D3DC-4A63-9A71-B39F86C00E01_zpsoskbg7kh.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/FDE1B2C6-205D-4F9D-B15D-DF2010117091_zpsil2wpmyj.jpg All Done: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/E7F9B5D9-96E2-44BD-81AB-5D9DB6D5C931_zpsj0mcemii.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/FEEFD613-81CD-4915-AE6D-AFFDC5205CDB_zpswwcmfqd8.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggerdan11 Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Asbestos Siding Removal. Siding Replacement, New Exterior Steps, Paint http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/8069FB4A-C91D-4826-B94C-E1277D9563F7_zpse1sh2my1.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/3AFBE9BD-370E-4DA4-A658-2D8390039320_zps6e89crfl.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/A300CD6C-8F37-4EA4-A347-9166C5CECF6D_zpsi4slcsvr.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/19C5DA38-4DAC-4224-A63C-56B52BC6AED9_zps98qazct9.jpg All Done! http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/517ECCA7-C770-4FEE-8ECA-35157769315D_zpsl4qpjrf9.jpg http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/diggerdan11/House%20Remodel/3AC32998-50FB-460F-956F-E3C0E49EDE4D_zpsmy5zoigo.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Nice work. Did you do the removal yourself or did you use an abatement company? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggerdan11 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Nice work. Did you do the removal yourself or did you use an abatement company? I did it all myself. It was a pain in the ass but we'll worth it. The worst part is that you have to put the siding in these special bags but it pokes right through the bags. So I had to put it all in cardboard boxes then I have to put the boxes in the bags. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 I did it all myself. It was a pain in the ass but we'll worth it. The worst part is that you have to put the siding in these special bags but it pokes right through the bags. So I had to put it all in cardboard boxes then I have to put the boxes in the bags. I bet the disposal ffee forthat was a pretty penny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggerdan11 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 I bet the disposal ffee forthat was a pretty penny Well I still have it in my garage in boxes. The dump fee is $200 per ton and I have about around ton, plus about $50 for bags. so not too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Wow. That's much cheaper than I would have thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Welp, finished products of the mold remediation... a couple weeks (months?) after I promised them. Ain't that how home ownership goes? First picture is looking at the small, half bath on the left with the built-in cabinets with 300 layers of (most likely) lead based paint. Musty carpet on the floor along with debris from when I took down the drop ceiling and re-wired the entire basement with 12-2. That was a trip because it was knob and tube with 10-3 spliced in which then went down to 12-2 for some 15A outlets, one of which supplied a full size upright freezer. Second picture is about 120 degrees to the right of the first one showing a cellar and the other wall (left, behind the furnace) that makes up the mold room. Ceiling tiles stacked semi-nicely from when I took them down. Third is the extent of what I pulled off and somewhat cleaned up (disposed of) in there. Notice the crumbling slopes under the windows. Other end of the mold room with some more built-in cabinets. First day of the remediation company. That would have been looking at the brown built-in cabinets from the first picture with the half-bath to the left. Looking from the laundry area with the half-bath to the immediate left. Looking from the same area as the previous picture, done. Step stool and my handy 18v Dewalt (along with random dust) from drilling and routing new electrical for re-wiring the main floor bedrooms. The bathroom had some kind of tar put on the wall. That's the extent of the asbestos floor I have... roughly 14x25. The yellow romex hanging in the foreground is from the bathroom and is not live anymore, so don't fret. I'm going to re-paint the basement with some water proofing paint (at least the walls) and it'll probably stay like this for a while... going to either borrow or buy a couple sets of saw horses and set up all of my interior doors so I can repaint them in one go (at least one side at a time). Because the floor is probably going to stay for a while, I might move the work bench over there along with wood working stuff (miter saw and radial arm saw) because it's easier to sweep on the tiles than concrete... and have a lot of space for longer boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Nice work! I like your stereo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 The mold guys tossed it! I was pissed... my grandma left it when she moved out. It had a dial for changing the radio station but a digital display of the actual station. It was great for tunes while working down there or in the garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I'm going to re-paint the basement with some water proofing paint (at least the walls) and it'll probably stay like this for a while... going to either borrow or buy a couple sets of saw horses and set up all of my interior doors so I can repaint them in one go (at least one side at a time). Because the floor is probably going to stay for a while, I might move the work bench over there along with wood working stuff (miter saw and radial arm saw) because it's easier to sweep on the tiles than concrete... and have a lot of space for longer boards. Water proofing goes on the outside of the wall, the stuff you put on the inside shall be able to breathe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 30, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 30, 2014 Water proofing goes on the outside of the wall, the stuff you put on the inside shall be able to breathe. DryLok, bro. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 DryLok, bro. Only good for very minor moisture problems. It will destroy foundations otherwise. Hydrostatic pressure needs to be relieved somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 (edited) Running my dehumidifier nearly constantly to maintain 55% RH isn't the best way, me thinks. I had water seeping (running) down the wall during a really heavy rainfall a couple weeks back. DryLok or something of the sort could fix that. Digging up and tarring the block on the outside or some other method like that isn't in the cards right now. I don't have a sump pump either so using one of those systems won't work either. In any event, the plan (currently) is: Monitor and maintain a lower humidity level in the basement than before (trying to stay under 60% or so) DryLok (or equivalent) the walls for appearance and humidity sake Finish main floor renovation (less kitchen and bath for now). Floor refinishing is slated for week of July 4th. Replace exterior doors. Replace basement steps (rot starting at bottom due to water problems that spawned mold problem) That will probably take me through the end of summer, after which I will replace all 14 windows using my company bonus, tax refund, and money out of pocket sometime next spring. Edited May 30, 2014 by baconbits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Seems like different countries/jurisdictions, have slightly different takes on how and when to let concrete breath. Regardless, DryLok will ONLY work on unpainted foundation walls. Otherwise, you're wasting your money putting it on. Looking at your to do list Bacon, I've been there! Before I finished the basement, I replaced the bilco doors, made major bilco foundation repairs, replaced the basement step system (to the bilcos), put in an interior curtain like drain (Basement Systems), replaced the two small basement windows, drylok'd, put in a dricore subfloor, and then moved onto framing and finishing. Put in a basement bathroom too. That was fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 30, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 30, 2014 Bacon, have you considered setting up a french drain in your basement while everything is exposed? If you do the labor you can probably do it for fairly cheap and it's a pretty bulletproof solution. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I had water seeping (running) down the wall during a really heavy rainfall a couple weeks back. DryLok or something of the sort could fix that. Digging up and tarring the block on the outside or some other method like that isn't in the cards right now. I don't have a sump pump either so using one of those systems won't work either. DryLoc over a seeping wall is most definitely not a good idea. Not only will it not bond well, all it is going to do is hold water in the wall leading to foundation deterioration and potentially shifting during freezing since the water can't drain (not sure where you are located though). On top of that, the water will eventually find a way back in. Basements are a pain. I'm currently finishing mine and have done a ton of research. While opinions about vapor barriers, insulation, flooring, etc. can vary, one thing everyone seems to agree on is that painting the walls with anything should only be considered "just for looks" and is not a solution for a water problem. I don't recall if you said you were going to finish it, but if you are, you wouldn't want to have all your hard work go to waste if you got a decent amount of rain. I had less than a quarter of an inch of water in my basement last year and it ruined everything that was finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Only good for very minor moisture problems. It will destroy foundations otherwise. Hydrostatic pressure needs to be relieved somehow. I can confirm that. The PO of my rental home drylocked the basement, but didn't do anything to repair the leaking gutters. The basement walls are crumbling because of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I'd rather deal with the cause (water getting in through wall) than dealing with the symptoms (water on the floor). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 30, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 30, 2014 Yeah, obviously drylok-ing is for very minor issues and you still need to correct whatever is causing water to pool up against the foundation. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I'd rather deal with the cause (water getting in through wall) than dealing with the symptoms (water on the floor). Understandable, and this is the best thing you can do. Regrading the outside, sealing the exterior wall, adding draining lines along the exterior, etc. are how you would accomplish this though. That's pricey and isn't always an option hence why most people don't do it. I couldn't do those things so I went the french drain route. Have you tried to identify the source on the exterior? Sometimes rerouting a downspout is all it takes to keep the water from getting inside. Patios, driveways, or sidewalks that are slopped towards the foundation can also be the culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I think the clay tile (house built in the 40s) has collapsed somewhere along the back wall of the house. The property slopes from the backyard towards the front so unless I re-grade the entire backyard, it'll slope towards the front of the house no matter what I do. I can change it a little near the house (flower beds along house), but not a whole lot. That's the plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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