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Teh DM's KSport Coilover Review


Drift Monkey

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DM and others, can I get some more details about the drop and KSport?

1. Are the top-hats noisy?

a. Have you noticed any additional road noise after the coil-over install? (assuming you didn't add new tires at the same time [which could contribute to road noise])

2. What is the history of KSport? Has anyone had any experience with them? Do they have a history of making high quality suspension parts?

3. What is the max ride height? Can you achieve stock ride height/ground clearance if needed?

4. Do you still feel good about these coil-overs from Ksport?

I apologize if I overlooked questions that have already been asked (I have read the thread).

 

Thanks for any feedback you can provide!

 

-JGR

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it's too bad I didnt have enough seat time behind the wheel of the car itself. I'll give you the base points of what the car was set at and the parts that I know of on the car that is relative to the suspension:

 

Atech Wheels (18"x8") = 20 lbs

Falken Azenis RT-615s @ 225/40/18 = 25 lbs

Shock settings Front/Rear = "1/2 stiff; 3/4 stiff" said DM

Spring rates = 7kg/7kg

Tire Pressures Front/Rear Hot = 38/36

Ride Height =ummm, really low??

Camber Front/Rear = ~-2.3/~-1.5

Perrin Rear Sway = middle setting

Gas Tank = 1/4 tank

 

I didnt have have a hard time getting early on the gas and making the rear end feel loose.. the problem that I felt out of the car was the ability to make the car lift-throttle steer going into the turn as simple as mine (I really think that's dude to set up and that more R&D from my behalf would have fixed it).

 

I did notice the car bounced a lot up front when DM drove the car for his 3rd and 4th run with his car. I am sure that's due to the mismatch dampening vs the front spring set up, of course, that's also the probable cause of what made it easy for me to be hard on the gas and get the car to turn in because it was pretty possible to feel the front end to lift or even out the weight loads so that the front tires are not overloaded from the steering AND accelerating duties.

 

When it comes down to it, I think the K-sports could hold their weight in a daily driving system.. I would have to say that K-sport would have to develop a more aggressive set up to actually compete in national level solo2 or track days. I remember seeing that the production model has the 7kg/9kg setup.. this will allow the car to actually (hopefully) rotate when it's in the condition of lift-throttle oversteer. Currently the car is not liking my late-braking approach or even weight transfer approach to the turn. After that said, I think the coilovers are a good entry level setup, but they are easy to hit the limit to the higher level of demand from performance drivers like myself.

 

I would have to say, these are an alternative to the Tein Flex (not better or worse, just "different").. as far as durability, that's another story.

 

 

Keefe

Keefe
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I did notice the car bounced a lot up front when DM drove the car for his 3rd and 4th run with his car. I am sure that's due to the mismatch dampening vs the front spring set up, of course, that's also the probable cause of what made it easy for me to be hard on the gas and get the car to turn in because it was pretty possible to feel the front end to lift or even out the weight loads so that the front tires are not overloaded from the steering AND accelerating duties.

So, is this something that can be tuned right on the current 7k/7k spring setup, or would you recommend different spring rates for the Ksport dampers?

 

Thanks.

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Thanks for the write-up... care to comment further on the following?

 

Of course like any coilover, if you operate out of its suggested operating suspension travel range and lower the car too much and the amount of harsh roads can shorten the life of the shock. Currently looking at DM's current ride height, I feel that it's beyond its suspension travel range.. It's possible that the shocks are very close to bottoming themselves out, but I am not sure since I didnt do the zip-tie test. Another reason why I made the comment of durability is that I am not sure the history record of the K-Sport the company themselves (even though it seems to be the same company that creates D2 coilovers for DTM racing).

 

 

Keefe

Keefe
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So, is this something that can be tuned right on the current 7k/7k spring setup, or would you recommend different spring rates for the Ksport dampers?

 

Thanks.

 

I think it takes time to dial in the right specs that is doable for autox, track, and street. I really think the front end might need some adjustments to get that "cut spring bump ride" up the front. I think it's a decent coilover to have, it just needs some alignment changes, and some R&D to tailor the system to make the coilovers work for the driver's needs.

 

 

Keefe

Keefe
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spring rate is available at 9kg at the rear by buyer's demand but the default rate is set at 7/7 for both safety and liablity concern as not everyone that buys the kit are going to do SOLO2 AutoX day in and day out which is why ksport offer the option to purchase custom spring rate.

 

As a vendor and customer myself with ksport, I can say that anyone that encounter any durability issue within the warranty period will be well taken care of. That is our gurantee.

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Add a RSB to the mix...and there is more input. Would you suggest going with 7/7 and a large RSB to achieve proper rotation or would 7/9 with a adj or small bar be better with stock power? I am waiting for my set to arrive and planning on power upgrades soon. I am thinking that 9 in the rear will reduce squat and increase rotation in a good way in a wagon. Correct?

 

I think it takes time to dial in the right specs that is doable for autox, track, and street. I really think the front end might need some adjustments to get that "cut spring bump ride" up the front. I think it's a decent coilover to have, it just needs some alignment changes, and some R&D to tailor the system to make the coilovers work for the driver's needs.

 

 

Keefe

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I run 8/6 with some agressive valve dial-in for my shocks and I set my RSB to full stiff and redo the alignment and tire pressures, my car is set to a level where it can over steer like the best of them when not on throttle.

 

It really depends on how tail happy you want the car to be. There's a lot of other factors that really come into play. For my car, I opted to have harder springs in the front to transfer more weight to the front quickly (stiffer springs = faster weight transfers) to get the front end to bite.. when this happens, the rear end gets light for me under braking (hydraulic or engine).

 

If you opt for a stock feel, the GT has naturally softer springs in the front and harder on rear. What this means is that you can be on the gas longer on the GT to maximize on-throttle weight balance (since the car is not going to squat THAT much on you to the point where your front wheels wll lift, but it DOES take off the weight off the front wheels so that you are at the limit of the front wheels' tracton circle of "lateral grip vs. accerlation".

 

As I said before, you would really have to understand what you need to make the car feel the way you want it to feel. Driving style is important as some people prefer to late brake (like me) and not even be on the brakes when I am dong a turn-in since I am early on the gas to get the rear end to sit and take weight off the front to allow just enough of grip for turning and thus also get a head start on building boost back up coming out of a turn to rocket down a straight.

 

Keefe

Keefe
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DM - it sounds like my 245x35/18 on 18x8 +46 on my OBXT will be nearly the same as yours. Still rubbing?

 

Ksports arrive in two weeks.

 

 

Well...I have 225/40/18 Azenis RT-615...not exactly a "true" 225 series tire (closer to 245). :lol: That and you have a 1mm extra on me (I'm on 45). The only thing I can think of is the rear weather strip thingy....but I never rubbed that, even at stock height...:confused:

 

Must be some crazy ass build tolerances at the SOA Illinois plant! :lol:

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DM - it sounds like my 245x35/18 on 18x8 +46 on my OBXT will be nearly the same as yours. Still rubbing?

 

Ksports arrive in two weeks.

No rubbing....the rears never did. Just don't lower the front too much (leave at least a finger gap).

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No rubbing....the rears never did. Just don't lower the front too much (leave at least a finger gap).

 

Yeah what he said, i'm running 18x7.5 5Zigen RX-6 with 225/40/18 Falken Azenis RT-615 with about a finger gap and no rub'n here in boston with crappy roads.....

 

Like he's said, make the adjustments to the coilovers before you install, you'll save yourself tons of time, and it's easier/smarter to start high and drop it slowly with testing inbetween....or so I found out be'n way to low to start :D

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I look forward to...

 

Thanks for the heads up. My first set of coilovers...it will be fun learning to setup and adjust.

 

+1 My first set too.....Easy install (minus the strut bolts) its easy to adjust them, just tought to get it right :lol: .....but it's fun to learn,adjust..... learn, adjust. Just letting you know from my mistakes ;)

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+1 My first set too.....Easy install (minus the strut bolts) its easy to adjust them, just tought to get it right :lol: .....but it's fun to learn,adjust..... learn, adjust. Just letting you know from my mistakes ;)

The strut bolts are easy if you would have listened to me. :lol:

 

Many, many mistakes..:p

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Just reread this thread, did a search for a Ksport install thread and did not see the "secret" to strut bolts. Secret?

Secret: use a long breaker that extends to the ground so nobody has to hold it (and you have almost unlimited resistance). Put a ratchet on the other end and jack it up with a jack until loose. Hammer and punch (screwdriver in my case) to get the bolt out. Rinse and repeat.

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