Max Capacity Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Don't use Subaru anti-freeze. Why pay that much when there is other stuff out there. I have Prestone in my 05 I think Peak makes a nice Global anti-freeze that is good stuff. Do a web search. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Don't use Subaru anti-freeze. Why pay that much when there is other stuff out there. I have Prestone in my 05 I think Peak makes a nice Global anti-freeze that is good stuff. Do a web search. why? because subaru super blue coolant is phosphate-type to prevent some types of corrosion. from nasioc FAQ: What aftermarket coolant can I use? This was detailed in the May 2005 issue of End Wrench which is no longer online, but paraphrased here. When adding, replacing or servicing the cooling system always use Genuine Subaru Long Life Coolant. Genuine Subaru Long Life Coolant is a phosphate (non-amine) type and is specially formulated for all Subaru vehicles equipped with aluminum engines and radiators. Coolant of other types may not provide the proper protection to aid against corrosion of aluminum parts. If an equivalent must be used, make sure it is a phosphate (non-amine) type. As a reminder, use of Genuine Subaru Long Life Coolant is mandatory on all repairs paid for by Subaru of America, Inc. that require the replenishment of coolant. This holds true for any claim type. Whenever the coolant is changed, you must add Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner. Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner has been tested and approved for aluminum engines and radiators. Do not use after-market coolant reinforcement agents, sealers and/or flushing agents as those chemicals could corrode aluminum parts. FWIW, i just put in peak 50/50 green shit in but i change it out enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Hook, line and sinker... That was from 2005 and I'm sure it's means about as much as the OEM hipe. I had a friend take her 05 Outback to the dealer to have them replace the low beam head light bulbs. She asked the Service writer if she would have to replace the high beam buls soon. He told her no because her car only has one head light bulb, that does both low and high beam. I guess I was wrong when I told her she had two bulbs in each head light assemble. I don't listen to much when Dealers or OEM talk about your should only use OEM products. Like they are the only people on the planet that know what they are talking about. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 uh. yeah. the coolant info is from the manufacturer, not the "dealer telling you to". manufacturer recommendations and requirements are one thing, what a dealer tells you can vary. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be such a "To-do" FAQ on nasioc if it was dealer BS. Phosphate rich coolant is something that the manufacturer specifies for their internal materials....i believe them, but i chose to just flush it more often, and there arent really many people with issues running the green shit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 As long as the coolant or any fluid you use meets or exceeds the OEM requirements you'll be fine. I do suggest you keep a personal note book with all the schedule oil changes and other things you do to the car. When I needed the tranny rebuilt the Service writer photo copied my liitle note book with the dates and mileage I did all the fluid changes at so SOA would see the car maintance was done. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 31, 2012 I Donated Share Posted January 31, 2012 A lot of misinformation about coolant on this page. First of all, Super Blue wasn't required/recommended until 2008. Secondly, almost all coolant these days is non-amine. Third, I don't remember the exact requirement for phosphates, but I do remember seeing that PEAK coolant meets it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I read on this forum peak global long life is Subaru long life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 When it comes time just do a web search for this. http://www.peakauto.com/antifreeze-peak-global_lifetime.shtml 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiegeSubie Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Funnily enough I'm in the exact same boat as the OP. This thread has been EXTREMELY helpful in determining to just do the rebuild. ~113,000 miles, blown engine, blown turbo. Blew the 1st turbo going through NY on the way back to VA from CT. Took it to a shop to have it repaired, it felt like a sketchy situation from the start. Eventually I get a new turbo replaced, fyi this was 2 weeks ago, and am on my merry way for $1350. The repair shop screwed me over on when I'd get it back from repair so that price isn't a direct part/labor cost. Now 2 days ago, I'm driving and I hear the whining come back from the engine compartment, the car has a shudder, and I have throttle/power feedback issues. I take the car to my local Subaru dealer for a wtf is going on and they tell me the turbo is blown. What??? Compression test shows the engine is blown too. All this stems from, like the OP, me being a bad owner, I let the oil almost run dry about 6 months ago and it all went downhill in one week. So here I am, finding quotes for an engine/turbo replacement and am using the info you guys have helped supply here to lead me in the right direction. Thank you! The monetary costs associated to my stupidly are unreal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Funnily enough I'm in the exact same boat as the OP. This thread has been EXTREMELY helpful in determining to just do the rebuild. Thank you! The monetary costs associated to my stupidly are unreal. How exactly did your turbo blow? I've read on here that there are cases that a pieces of turbo going into the engine and causing it to blow right after. you better research that a bit more. Or it could of been the oil..... as I speak they should be taking it apart. the gave me a quote for $5k I'll keep you guys posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polo08816 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I am very sorry OP toasted his motor but I thought you were supposed to regularly check your oil in most any motorvehicle. I check the oil in the Durango with 160k miles on it at every fill up even though it has NEVER consumed oil. I want to catch it before it becomes catastrophic if it does start to eat oil, not wait for an oil light... GRANTED IN THIS CAR THE OIL LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON TILL ITS BASICALLY TOO LATE and I doubt OP knew that and had an opposite experience in every other car he owned. Frustrating and saddening honetly. In my 1994 Camry, I had my low oil pressure light come on quite a few times. I still drove it like I stole it even when there was only 1 quart left in it. It burned 1 quart every 800 miles. Car had 225k before the transmission grenaded from my repeated wheel-hop happy launches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 In my 1994 Camry, I had my low oil pressure light come on quite a few times. I still drove it like I stole it even when there was only 1 quart left in it. It burned 1 quart every 800 miles. Car had 225k before the transmission grenaded from my repeated wheel-hop happy launches. You seem to have missed the importance of the manufacture of that Camry, Toyota, That Camry was not made by Subaru and it wasn't turbo-charged. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted February 1, 2012 I Donated Share Posted February 1, 2012 The oil light flickered on quite a few times on my brother's 01 Forester too. The engine burned a quart every 500 miles when we took it out (tens of thousands of miles later), but it ran fine. Granted, the oil light was never on solid, it just flickered on when slowing down and/or turning. I don't think it's a Subaru thing, I think it's a TURBO Subaru thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiegeSubie Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 I don't know how exactly, but I did find out from the Subaru dealer that the turbo I paid for and the turbo I got by the NYC repair shop were two different things. They suggested to me that the yellow coding written onto it is common with junkyard parts for categorizing and that I in no way got a brand new turbo even though that's what I agreed to buy and was told they installed. I got hosed. I called the guy as soon as I found out and told him I get my money or I'm coming after him. He quickly conceded to pay the money back once I deliver him the turbo he installed that blew 2 weeks later. I'm not great with cars, if you're looking for a technical, how it blew, I couldn't tell you, they didn't take it apart at the dealer. The first one I blew had a cracked shaft however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 I don't know how exactly, but I did find out from the Subaru dealer that the turbo I paid for and the turbo I got by the NYC repair shop were two different things. I'm not great with cars, if you're looking for a technical, how it blew, I couldn't tell you, they didn't take it apart at the dealer. The first one I blew had a cracked shaft however. OH SNAPS! um idk much about these things and I'm pretty sure some of the members here can back this up. First of all you should never put an use turbo unless you know it ran perfectly and its been check out by a proffesional that there is no problems with the shaft. Secondly, If they screwed you over like that putting in a turbo you did not pay for especially if you paid for a new one and you got an used, and the stealership or another shop can prove your engine blew by fault of the "new" that was installed. that shop that sold and put on the turbo should and has to pay for the damages the caused. I would really look into that. you might just found yourself a free new engine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Hey Guys!! I got great news!! Turns out I only spun, more like melted my #3 bearing. Everything else is perfectly fine. There was no damages to the cylinder walls, block, or heads. So the shop is just going to give me a new STI crank shaft, new bearings, forged pistons, and of course boar out and sleeve my block. He also told me he would just remove both banjo filter, gutt my up pipe and remove the EGT Sensor. While its there in the shop I told him to flush my tranny and differentials, since I don't event know if they've been done before. Is there anything else that I should do while the car is in the shop that I should or you guys recommend me doing? I figure its already there and in pieces might as well make the most of it. I know if I get down pipe I can open source it to get a bit more ponnies and better gas mileage with a stage 1 tune. But is it really worth it? Or should I just wait till i brake in the new rebuild engine and get more cash? I know I said I don't want to spend much cash on it but I don't want to miss out on doing something now that its in the shop and pay for it again later to dissasemble everything again later? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 just get a new oem ej257 sti shortblock and reinstall. a lot less down time and a lot less labor intensive. secondly, adding a downpipe is stage 2. and if you're worried about gas mileage than sell the car now. get it back to how it was before the blow then work on your goals- AFTER you've researched more into mods. you clearly don'y know what you're talking about thus far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 +1 on oem ej257. Only do the shop suggested build if you are going to put a big turbo and upgrade fueling. Stage 1 (stock downpipe) or stage 2 (high flow cat downpipe) really don't require such an engine build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 just get a new oem ej257 sti shortblock and reinstall. a lot less down time and a lot less labor intensive. secondly, adding a downpipe is stage 2. and if you're worried about gas mileage than sell the car now. get it back to how it was before the blow then work on your goals- AFTER you've researched more into mods. you clearly don'y know what you're talking about thus far. hahaha thanks! I'll think I'll just do that, I'm done spend money on cars and driving them stupidly. One last thing that Sparked my curiosity is that he told me I have B25 heads which are STI heads, and my ej255 block is exactly the same as an STI ej257, other than piston and crank (but I'm getting and STI crank). So does this mean I have, more like our cars, STI engines with different turbos and ecu's to make up for the added weight or sedans have. Sorry if that sounds a bit to noobish but i just want to get it clarified by some of the older or more knowledgeable members in here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 +1 on oem ej257. Only do the shop suggested build if you are going to put a big turbo and upgrade fueling. Stage 1 (stock downpipe) or stage 2 (high flow cat downpipe) really don't require such an engine build. I probably will but not anything in the near future. I guess I'll just be ready when I decide too. PLus its a cheaper option! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 the ej257 and ej255 are different. your HEADS may be the same but the block is NOT. the 257 has a nitride crankshaft and a slightly larger combustion chamber. in all it can withstand more power than the 255 and the bearings seem to be a bit more resilient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted February 2, 2012 I Donated Share Posted February 2, 2012 Yes, the early EJ255s are very similar to the EJ257. The later ones are a bit different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 I guess your both right, well I'm already getting an ej257 nitrate crank and upgraded pistons so it'd be able to hand more power later down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 what im saying is it takes longer to split your block and install items than it does to just bolt in a new sti block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Are they replacing the rods too ? I may have missed that, but I didn't see them listed above. I also have agree with bmx, just get a new OEM EJ257 unless your looking for big HP numbers. Have your heads freshened up, you'll be good for most turbo's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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