goneskiian Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 12mm Aren't there some 10mm too? If not, my bad. It's been a while since I've had mine off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 adreyna Yes you can use a EJ257 the only difference is the shape of the piston dome. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 The intercooler is really easy to get off. A few 10mm bolts and a worm clamp. Self serve garage is in Kent... http://selfservegarage.com If only I was closer to kent. I'll stop by the shop tomorro after my class and see the full diagnosis or atleast tell them to take apart the head it they can to see if it's not damaged. Apparently the noise sounding like a rod is coming from only one side. adreyna Yes you can use a EJ257 the only difference is the shape of the piston dome. Oh ok may I ask if it's better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I think Subaru should've added oil pressure gauge from the factory. When your "check oil" light is on it pretty much means your engine is toast. Shame it can't be calibrated. I was down to about 3.5 qts of oil and the light didn't come on. Glad I changed the oil today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 25, 2012 I Donated Share Posted January 25, 2012 Shame it can't be calibrated. I was down to about 3.5 qts of oil and the light didn't come on. Glad I changed the oil today 3.5 qts is still on the dipstick... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Yeah, on the bottom end. May have been 3.25, not sure. But it wasn't 4, so I'm glad I didn't launch at that last stoplight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 25, 2012 I Donated Share Posted January 25, 2012 According to the owner's manual, it is unnecessary to add oil unless the oil level is below the "L" marking on the dipstick. So I'm pretty sure it's fine to drive the car, even to drive it hard, when it's almost a quart down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maniaxzero Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 According to the owner's manual, it is unnecessary to add oil unless the oil level is below the "L" marking on the dipstick. So I'm pretty sure it's fine to drive the car, even to drive it hard, when it's almost a quart down. is this a sarcastic comment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Yeah, on the bottom end. May have been 3.25, not sure. But it wasn't 4, so I'm glad I didn't launch at that last stoplight i guess thats i went wrong.... i did 2:30 mins of donuts before everything happened. not count me messing around during the day. i so hate myself for this. i had checked the oil the day before and it was good. fml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Other then the piston dome shape the EJ255 and EJ257 are the same. If you think about where the oil goes in the pan during donuts, you may understand why it's good to keep the oil topped off. I pretty sure thefultonhow was being sarcastic, he's been around here long enough... Like I said, I top off my 05 every few day's. It gets gas once a week. It will turn 150,000 miles early next week. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 When doing donuts in the snow with these things, I think it's best to only give light to moderate throttle. Bouncing off the rev limiter makes no sense. If you've got the mechanical skills, do it yourself. You'll need some various wrenches and sockets. I think 10, 12, 14, 22mm?, a 10mm hex-head socket, breaker bar, and a few extensions and pry bar + another person will work. Honestly, the hardest part of taking this motor apart was to go on the internet and trust the solutions worked. I got the crank pulley off by putting short socket extensions in to get the crank and using a bar to hold it while turning the crank pulley out. The other hard part is getting the cam sprockets off - just use the timing belt method from the crank to the sprocket you are removing. Hence, why I asked if you've replaced it; you'll need a new timing belt if you use this method. Alternatively someone might have an old one laying around they could mail you for this purpose. Once I got comfortable using those methods, cam pulley off in 10 minutes total, and crank off in under a minute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 25, 2012 I Donated Share Posted January 25, 2012 is this a sarcastic comment? I pretty sure thefultonhow was being sarcastic, he's been around here long enough... I'm not being sarcastic. Subaru probably didn't anticipate people driving on the track or doing snow donuts with the oil level just above L, but the fact that they said you don't need to add oil until the level falls below L (I seem to remember it's on page 512 of the manual -- look it up) means that the oiling system was designed to work properly under normal conditions with 3.25 qts in it. Do you really think they would put that in the manual if they expected to have to pay out warranty claims because of it? Yes, I know oil on this car is important, but there is a difference between sheared and contaminated oil, and oil that is a bit low, but still within design specs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 OP - what is your oil change interval? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 According to the owner's manual, it is unnecessary to add oil unless the oil level is below the "L" marking on the dipstick. So I'm pretty sure it's fine to drive the car, even to drive it hard, when it's almost a quart down. me =/= chance taker on my DD. I don't want to deal with what the OP is dealing with until the engine gives up the ghost from natural causes. Then I'll probably swap a turbo Buick V6 into it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Other then the piston dome shape the EJ255 and EJ257 are the same. Like I said, I top off my 05 every few day's. It gets gas once a week. It will turn 150,000 miles early next week. Oh I see. Thats sweet I wish I had taken care of it like like you do, like you all do. I guess I just learned the hard way. I very harsh way. OP - what is your oil change interval? About 3,000 miles plus or minus 500miles depending on if how it's driven. So I think I've decided to go with a new block and heads. My mechanic said it be the best way that way everything can be warrantied with subaru's 12 months/12,000 milies. And on top of that I get 6 more months and 6k more miles from the shop. He said everything from my old engine would be slapped on to the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 New heads are a waste of money unless you blew a hole through them IMHO. That's almost, if not, a shortblock in additional parts cost. You might have heard of the banjo bolt filters - they are on the heads and should be replaced/removed. Don't let a $4 bolt screw your new engine. One supplies the turbo and the passenger side head, the other supplies the driver's side head. Verify that the mechanic is cleaning the crap out of that oil cooler as well. You might as well dump the catted uppipe and put in an OEM/quality aftermarket catless unit for peace of mind. It will have zero effect on emissions other than cold start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Your right compsurge, I did talk to another shop here in Seattle (R&H Garage) thanks to Berzerkio and Seattle and they seem to know what they were talking about. From what I've heard they really good with Subarus and they also tune in house. They gave me a better estimate and recommended just like Maxcapacity a new ej257 shortblock. They will machine the heads and check for any damage on them and then slap it it all back together. Plus they gave me a 24 month 24k mile warranty for labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Win! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Your right compsurge, I did talk to another shop here in Seattle (R&H Garage) thanks to Berzerkio and Seattle and they seem to know what they were talking about. From what I've heard they really good with Subarus and they also tune in house. They gave me a better estimate and recommended just like Maxcapacity a new ej257 shortblock. They will machine the heads and check for any damage on them and then slap it it all back together. Plus they gave me a 24 month 24k mile warranty for labor. Good to hear, that is how it should be done. You should make a list of the things we're telling you and talk to them about doing these small things. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerklo Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Your right compsurge, I did talk to another shop here in Seattle (R&H Garage) thanks to Berzerkio and Seattle and they seem to know what they were talking about. From what I've heard they really good with Subarus and they also tune in house. They gave me a better estimate and recommended just like Maxcapacity a new ej257 shortblock. They will machine the heads and check for any damage on them and then slap it it all back together. Plus they gave me a 24 month 24k mile warranty for labor. I am glad they could help you out! Make sure to post up and let us know how everything works out... I need to swing by that shop soon and check it out. The ringland thread is having me thinking about getting a tune a little bit before I had planned on originally... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 correct max, thats what i plan to do over the wkend! but first i need to figure out how to come up with 5k! right i have about half the money, enough to get it started but i need to know if i can get the rest before they start working on.! yea berzerklo, they know their stuff! i was impressed on everything they was telling me and acouple of projects they've done and are currently on. they told me since my car is still able to turn on, that there is a slight chance that my block can be saved and built back up with forged pistons and a new crank. that would save me acouple bucks instead of getting a new short block, and ill be capable of handling more power later on! but for now i need to come up with the cash.... ya you should totally stop by and check then out they sound like they know there stuff and ive personally heard good stuff about them on subbies.... when i went today they had a built forester project car about to get on the dyno with a fmic. talk to hunter he looks a bit young but knows his stuff. tell him tony the kid blown legacy told you. lol but the real review about them will be after they work on my subby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Good to hear, that is how it should be done. You should make a list of the things we're telling you and talk to them about doing these small things. Ok so I'm going to have my car towed in later this afternoon to R&H Garage here in Seattle. And just you mentioned I need to make a list of what you guys think I need and recommend as well as a todo list just make sure they do everything right. Can you guys help me this is what I have so far. "Subrina's Open Heart Sugery" 05 LGT 5eat 113k miles - Timing belt and Water pump at 103k - New Turbo at 111.5k - New OEM ej257 short block (or ej255?) - ALL New Gasket Sets - New banjo bolt filters (or should I remove them? Just the passenger or both? Or just replace them? - Replace all old hoses -*Mobil 1 oil (what do you guys recommend?) - Subaru antifreeze - Catless UP pipe? (inexpensive suggestions?) - Remachine Heads and check for valve damage ToDo's - Check the turbo for signs of turbo oil seal failure (shaft play, oily residue all over center housing rotating assembly). - Clean the oil cooler, intercooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 the ej257 is only like $200 more than the ej255. might as well get the 257 for the nitride crank and slightly larger cumbustion chamber. you'll probably want a new oil cooler. it will be a royal pita getting the old one cleaned enough. run dino oil for break in!!!!!!! for the first 1500 miles then switch to synthetic (not mobil 1 or royal purple, dont ask why, just accept it), syntec 5w-30, pennzoil 5w-30. only banjo filter you should keep is the avcs one. find a catless 04-07 sti uppipe or 07+ lgt catless uppipe, they're cheap. get the complete timing belt kit with included water pump (gates) you'll need a thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adreyna Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 the ej257 is only like $200 more than the ej255. might as well get the 257 for the nitride crank and slightly larger cumbustion chamber. you'll probably want a new oil cooler. it will be a royal pita getting the old one cleaned enough. run dino oil for break in!!!!!!! for the first 1500 miles then switch to synthetic (not mobil 1 or royal purple, dont ask why, just accept it), syntec 5w-30, pennzoil 5w-30. only banjo filter you should keep is the avcs one. find a catless 04-07 sti uppipe or 07+ lgt catless uppipe, they're cheap. get the complete timing belt kit with included water pump (gates) you'll need a thermostat. Thanks I'll add that in. I guess ill just go with the castrol gtx Subaru recommends. Since I just did the timing belt can I just transfer everything over that was replaced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 i suppose, if all that stuff was just replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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