Thatguy Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 I was trying to pull my motor finally today to get the heads off due to a possible burnt valve. However it seems to not want to come apart from the engine at the bottom passenger side. I have the top apart and it looks to be separating all the way down the driver side yet is still on the bottom stud there. Then on the passenger side it does not want to separate between the turbo and the bottom passenger stud. I have try prying on it a little down there to try to get it to move. No luck. I have car out of gear, and the turbo is still on, but does not look to be in the way. I have a load leveler and two friends helping. We tried wiggling it around and all different combos with the load leveler,as well as pulling and jacking up the transmission but still will not budge. Any ideas? I did think of one thing and this is that I still have it on the jack stands in the front. I would have plenty of clearance to get the motor out with my picker but maybe it should be down to give a better angle to pull? Thanks for any help or ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 did you remove the clutch fork . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thatguy Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 No I had not, The Service manual made no mention of that though. Also it looks like that is on the other side I thought (driver side) and that side seems to be releasing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 it doesnt matter the clutch fork will hold the tob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1055 Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Should still separate either way. My best guess is that your being too gentle with it. Take a putty knife and a hammer and run it all the way down the side that is sticking. Probably have a bit of corrosion. When I swapped my engine last, it took a hammer and 20minutes of pounding the hell out of a prybar/flatblade to get the thing to budge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 did you take all the bolts out ? Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thatguy Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 Haha yes all the bolts are out. Yea maybe I just need to see if I can get a prybar down there too. So there doesnt seem to be anything Im missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 These things are known, not to want to come apart. If you have all the nut's and bolts out of the bell housing, You just need better prying. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piening2150 Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 You're not taking apart a Spec.B are you? The 6MT does require the fork to be removed, if its a 5MT it just needs MOAR prying as Max said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thatguy Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 Its a 5MT. MORE PRYING IT WAS! 3 more hours of prying and it came free! Needed to remove the UP pipe also to get to the stubborn middle pin on the passenger side. Once that came free it released really easily. As they mention above with the clutch fork, it didnt need to be removed although it might have made it a little easier since the TOB would have just slid out also. So it was about 8 hours of prying starting with thin screwdriver all the way up to a crow bar. I think what really helped is actually jacking up the front passenger side of the engine with a 2x4 and jack to pull up on that side of the trans. Once I did that a few times it started a tiny gap under the turbo so I could start prying. Also happy to find out my transmission snout appears to be smooth and intact with a TOB that was making a little noise when I spin it. So that might explain the quiet grinding I was hearing in there. Will make me feel better replacing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liljonson Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 i've done 5 clutches on subaru 5spds and the last 3 i disconnected clutch fork and saved an hour. Why struggle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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