Stasis Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Wow, awesome write up! I am tryihng to find those in LED type, but either way has to be done soon. NONE of those work on mine LED will probably give hot spots, i'd just go for the normal bulbs tbh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 LED will probably give hot spots, i'd just go for the normal bulbs tbh This. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Ah, well thank you for the advice. I currently have no climate control unit lights...so i need that done soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fire Away Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Does anybody have a how to on flushing the cooling system on an EJ22? Mine definitely needs to be done. I found threads on burping which were helpful but not one on a full system flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Remove the thermostat and lower radiator hose. Pump water through the radiator fill cap. Usually how I have done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Does anybody have a how to on flushing the cooling system on an EJ22? Mine definitely needs to be done. I found threads on burping which were helpful but not one on a full system flush. I think you can get it done at a quick lube relatively cheap. Depending on weather conditions and where you can work on the car. It is a little chilly here in ILL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PorkchopSandwiches Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Thanks for the awesome write-up 'stang. Alldata hardly has any repair manuals for these cars so it's nice to find great guides like this with all the pictures. I should be re-doing mine tomorrow. I'm just going to wire new bulbs into the old twist-in housings and put the green caps over them. I've done that before with lots of success when redoing lights in factory radios. Saves a bit of money over buying from the dealership and if you keep a stash of the baseless 12v bulbs around you can use them to replace a dash bulb in just about any size of neo wedge housing. Snip the wires of the burnt out bulb here (circled in yellow) on both sides http://i.imgur.com/zFVVLte.jpg Untwist the wires and remove the bulb and any left over wire. Remove the green gel filter cap from the top of the bulb. Be very careful because the rip easily. Thread a new 12v generic bulb into the housing and wrap the wires through the grooves using needle nose pliers the same way the old one was threaded in. Cut off any excess wire and put the gel filter cap over the new bulb. http://i.imgur.com/elCTow5.jpg Now you have a new neo-wedge bulb. I can probably post actual pics of the process tomorrow if there's interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 i've got a feeling that you arent going to be too happy with the light distribution/pattern when you're done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PorkchopSandwiches Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 i've got a feeling that you arent going to be too happy with the light distribution/pattern when you're done If you do it right, it's identical to the stock bulb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grocery-Getter Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Why not use white led's. Just have to fit the resistor and aim them. but well worth the trouble. I'll do a write up on my spare unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 theres plug and play led lights from superbrightled.com that work well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sludgeroo Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Still haven't found the thread for the 01 wrx console swap. Didn't someone sticky it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 information in this thread had been merged with the Aftermarket parts guide, post 2 but as for the center console swap.. line up the mounting holes near the shifter and radioo bezel, mark and trim the overlap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sludgeroo Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 I knew you had to trim the overlap but all mounting holes line up otherwise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 the two under the shifter and the two under the radio bolt up, the three at the very back dont, but the others secure it enough to keep it from moving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oxymoron36 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Anyone know where i can find a how-to on a 2.5 engine removal? everything is under construction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Do you have an FSM? If not, send me your email via PM and I'll send you a copy. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colonelkeystone Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 . . . . or just download them from here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/second-gen-factory-service-manuals-literature-186552.html -ZM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 (edited) Starter Motor: Contact Replacement EDIT: If any of these images ever fail to load properly, shoot me a PM. It appears Facebook sometimes alters the links to images and I have to update them before they work. Once you've removed the starter, you should be looking at this. If you flip it around, you will see a plate with three, small 7 mm bolts. In this photo, I've already removed one. This is the cover to the solenoid assembly. Remove these three bolts, and take the cover off (mind that there is a gasket between the cover and the housing.) With the cover removed, you should be able to see the plunger assembly, and the two copper contacts on each side. You can simply remove the plunger by pulling it out. Note when you remove the plunger, that this long (greased up) spring may or may not come out with it. You will need to swap this over to the new plunger (if it didn't come out, just make sure the new plunger goes into it when you slide it in. You can see the scoring and wear on the copper disk at the top (bottom in this photo) of the plunger. Next, remove the bolt securing the power bridge from the starter motor to the solenoid. This reveals another nut (and there should be one on the other side in plain sight) that is recessed into a rubber base. You can get at this nut with a wrench from the side, as it protrudes up but only by about a millimeter. Kind of annoying, but they both turned rather easily, so it didn't cause as much of a problem as you would think by looking at it. Only unscrew one side at a time or you'll have a LOT of parts to keep track of. You can see the stack of parts you will be working with. Once you remove the nut, pull off the rubber seat. It has a washer inside it too, so don't lose that. You can see here the collection of parts. From right to left, you have the bolt, a small and large rubber gasket, then a metal spacer, then the copper contact you will be replacing (L-shaped, so you can see it protrudes out to the left from underneath) then a thin metal plate that is attached to that small wire connector underneath. You probably don't want to mess with that too much, and then the square head of the copper bolt. I'm not sure how robust the wire connecting that thin metal plate is, so I suggest just pushing the bolt through, that way you can take it out and slide the copper contact out without disturbing the location of that metal plate too much. Then just slide the new one in, and then push the bolt back through! Don't forget the two rubber spacers. The contact on the other side is slightly different. There is no metal plate connected to the small wire on that side, so you can actually push the bolt through and remove all the parts. On this side, the bolt is fatter, and has splines (you can just barely see them in this photo) so that it seats against the copper contact and doesn't move. I tapped the old one off using the head of my wrench, and pressed the new one in using lockjaws. Then put that back together, reconnect the power bridge, slide in the new plunger, put the cover back on and you're good to go! Here are some comparison photos of the wear on the old contacts. You can see a clear groove where the copper has been completely worn away over the past 265k miles of starting. Finally, a close-up of the old and new plungers. Edited January 20, 2017 by Stang70Fastback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 This thread is dead Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Lol, it's not properly laid out. It shouldn't be a giant thread full of DIYs. It needs to be an actual SUB-FORUM into which we can post individual DIY threads... someone call a moderator! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Nice walk-through. I made this into a .pdf. Okay to host it on Subimods.com - too large to host here? Full attribution to you as the originator/creator of the walk-through. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Sure. Where, exactly, is it going? I don't care, just curious, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Lol, it's not properly laid out. It shouldn't be a giant thread full of DIYs. It needs to be an actual SUB-FORUM into which we can post individual DIY threads... someone call a moderator! +1. second gen DIY subforum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Sure. Where, exactly, is it going? I don't care, just curious, lol. Thanks again for writing this up. I did a few minor edits to it and added in FSM specs for the grease and torque listings. It's located here on ScoobyMods.com. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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