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2nd Generation (and possible others) DIY Guides

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  • 2 months later...
Does anybody have a how to on flushing the cooling system on an EJ22? Mine definitely needs to be done. I found threads on burping which were helpful but not one on a full system flush.


I think you can get it done at a quick lube relatively cheap. Depending on weather conditions and where you can work on the car. It is a little chilly here in ILL

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Thanks for the awesome write-up 'stang. Alldata hardly has any repair manuals for these cars so it's nice to find great guides like this with all the pictures. I should be re-doing mine tomorrow. I'm just going to wire new bulbs into the old twist-in housings and put the green caps over them. I've done that before with lots of success when redoing lights in factory radios. Saves a bit of money over buying from the dealership and if you keep a stash of the baseless 12v bulbs around you can use them to replace a dash bulb in just about any size of neo wedge housing.


Snip the wires of the burnt out bulb here (circled in yellow) on both sides



Untwist the wires and remove the bulb and any left over wire.

Remove the green gel filter cap from the top of the bulb. Be very careful because the rip easily.


Thread a new 12v generic bulb into the housing and wrap the wires through the grooves using needle nose pliers the same way the old one was threaded in. Cut off any excess wire and put the gel filter cap over the new bulb.



Now you have a new neo-wedge bulb.


I can probably post actual pics of the process tomorrow if there's interest.

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Starter Motor: Contact Replacement


EDIT: If any of these images ever fail to load properly, shoot me a PM. It appears Facebook sometimes alters the links to images and I have to update them before they work.


Once you've removed the starter, you should be looking at this.




If you flip it around, you will see a plate with three, small 7 mm bolts. In this photo, I've already removed one. This is the cover to the solenoid assembly. Remove these three bolts, and take the cover off (mind that there is a gasket between the cover and the housing.)




With the cover removed, you should be able to see the plunger assembly, and the two copper contacts on each side. You can simply remove the plunger by pulling it out.




Note when you remove the plunger, that this long (greased up) spring may or may not come out with it. You will need to swap this over to the new plunger (if it didn't come out, just make sure the new plunger goes into it when you slide it in. You can see the scoring and wear on the copper disk at the top (bottom in this photo) of the plunger.




Next, remove the bolt securing the power bridge from the starter motor to the solenoid. This reveals another nut (and there should be one on the other side in plain sight) that is recessed into a rubber base. You can get at this nut with a wrench from the side, as it protrudes up but only by about a millimeter. Kind of annoying, but they both turned rather easily, so it didn't cause as much of a problem as you would think by looking at it. Only unscrew one side at a time or you'll have a LOT of parts to keep track of.




You can see the stack of parts you will be working with.




Once you remove the nut, pull off the rubber seat. It has a washer inside it too, so don't lose that.




You can see here the collection of parts. From right to left, you have the bolt, a small and large rubber gasket, then a metal spacer, then the copper contact you will be replacing (L-shaped, so you can see it protrudes out to the left from underneath) then a thin metal plate that is attached to that small wire connector underneath. You probably don't want to mess with that too much, and then the square head of the copper bolt.




I'm not sure how robust the wire connecting that thin metal plate is, so I suggest just pushing the bolt through, that way you can take it out and slide the copper contact out without disturbing the location of that metal plate too much. Then just slide the new one in, and then push the bolt back through!




Don't forget the two rubber spacers.




The contact on the other side is slightly different. There is no metal plate connected to the small wire on that side, so you can actually push the bolt through and remove all the parts. On this side, the bolt is fatter, and has splines (you can just barely see them in this photo) so that it seats against the copper contact and doesn't move. I tapped the old one off using the head of my wrench, and pressed the new one in using lockjaws.




Then put that back together, reconnect the power bridge, slide in the new plunger, put the cover back on and you're good to go!


Here are some comparison photos of the wear on the old contacts.




You can see a clear groove where the copper has been completely worn away over the past 265k miles of starting.






Finally, a close-up of the old and new plungers.



Edited by Stang70Fastback
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Nice walk-through. I made this into a .pdf. Okay to host it on Subimods.com - too large to host here? Full attribution to you as the originator/creator of the walk-through.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Sure. Where, exactly, is it going? I don't care, just curious, lol.


Thanks again for writing this up. I did a few minor edits to it and added in FSM specs for the grease and torque listings.


It's located here on ScoobyMods.com.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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