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Lifetime 5k Oil Changes Safe?


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You must be new to Subaru oil debacle.

:-)

 

When Subaru released 05 Legcay GT they had 3750 miles OCI for heavy duty and 7500 miles OCI for regular duty. The oil specification was "anything 5W30" is good for most conditions.

Roughly one year later Subaru changed OCI for turbocharged cars, they cut it in half without changing oil specification. Probably a lot of warranty claims caused this change.

In 2010 or 2011 Subaru speced synthetic oil and 7500 mile OCI is back again for turbo cars.

 

I guess if they prescribed synthetic oil from beggining it would be 7500 all the time.

 

I suspect engineering spec was blocked by marketing as synthetic means expensive and SOA did not want to do this.

 

Krzys

 

PS 05 GT, 141K, stock everything, 7.5K OCI - AVCS solenoid failure

 

Yep I'm new to Subies, but not to turbos. It's funny to hear you talk about Subaru specing out synthetic to prevent problems. We had another brand car with a turbo that spec'd semisynthetic. They had a rash of turbo problems. They covered our Garrett turbo when it went at 36k miles. The seals on the turbo impeller shaft went bad. I wanted the Subaru to put synthetic in our N/A and he didn't really want to do it.

 

Any problems with oil and the horizontal design?

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FWIW, A friend just siezed her 2.5i outback the other day. She went 5000 miles since her last oil change. Seems the engine ran out of oil.

 

I hope you guy's check your oil and know how much your drinks ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I see the OP is in Passaic County. I am assuming NJ? (I am originally from Clifton) In that area I would say 5k is safe on dino oil but in stop and go traffic on RT 3,46,80,23,17 etc dino oil will get worn pretty fast. A safer best is do a good synthetic like Motul or Amsoil and keep an eye on the oil quality and if you burn any. Synthetic should hold up better to the heat and keep the motor healthy. If the oil is staying clear and smooth you can easily push it to 7500. The NA motors are pretty stout. If you need anything we are right down the GSP at 138.

 

-Jake

 

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my current mileage 86k mi. my last oil change interval was 7800mi. i checked it but never needed to top off. burned maybe 1/4 of a quart. it was black though, and engine did run better after the oil change. i've changed my oil at different intervals, 1k (LOL), 3k, 5k, and 7k. i think right around 5k is the sweet spot. around 2k, the oil is still dark honey color.

 

also those burning oil should check the PCV valve. mine was burning about 1qt every 3k at around 50k miles. cleaned it and its good as new. no burning.

 

i keep hearing of 2.5i's blowing/seizing right before 100k. are there any 2.5i's at 150k? 200k? i think when people don't change their oil the PCV gets clogged easier and with age it stops working properly, then the car starts burning oil. its also not in the maintenance schedule for the new cars (probably because its hard to get to), so it never gets changed. the car ends up burning oil faster and faster, eventually with the average person not checking their oil, the motor blows/seizes.

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my current mileage 86k mi. my last oil change interval was 7800mi. i checked it but never needed to top off. burned maybe 1/4 of a quart. it was black though, and engine did run better after the oil change. i've changed my oil at different intervals, 1k (LOL), 3k, 5k, and 7k. i think right around 5k is the sweet spot. around 2k, the oil is still dark honey color.

 

also those burning oil should check the PCV valve. mine was burning about 1qt every 3k at around 50k miles. cleaned it and its good as new. no burning.

 

i keep hearing of 2.5i's blowing/seizing right before 100k. are there any 2.5i's at 150k? 200k? i think when people don't change their oil the PCV gets clogged easier and with age it stops working properly, then the car starts burning oil. its also not in the maintenance schedule for the new cars (probably because its hard to get to), so it never gets changed. the car ends up burning oil faster and faster, eventually with the average person not checking their oil, the motor blows/seizes.

 

 

Oh wow thats good to know, because my car is at almost 69k and ever since I bought it with 51k it has been burning a quart at 3-3.5k so I have to top it off always before I change the oil at 5k. I am going to look into cleaning the PCV and see if it helps me as much as it did you.

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i keep hearing of 2.5i's blowing/seizing right before 100k. are there any 2.5i's at 150k? 200k? i think when people don't change their oil the PCV gets clogged easier and with age it stops working properly, then the car starts burning oil. its also not in the maintenance schedule for the new cars (probably because its hard to get to), so it never gets changed. the car ends up burning oil faster and faster, eventually with the average person not checking their oil, the motor blows/seizes.

 

I'm at 87k right now so we shall see. I have subaru change my pcv valve every 30k, and my consumption has always stayed the same.

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My consumption has stayed at around 1qt every 4k-5k for the past 87k, even with new pcv valves. I drive the car off the lot with 3 miles and its just always done that. So I'm happy it hasn't changed, but its still a little irritating.
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ic. i've just been lucky i guess. i don't totally baby my car, but i do let it warm up for atleast 1min from a cold start, even during summer days. winter time a little longer, but usually no more than 5mins unless i'm inside the house running getting ready for work. i then take it easy until it warms up completely. i don't know if that makes a difference.
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ic. i've just been lucky i guess. i don't totally baby my car, but i do let it warm up for atleast 1min from a cold start, even during summer days. winter time a little longer, but usually no more than 5mins unless i'm inside the house running getting ready for work. i then take it easy until it warms up completely. i don't know if that makes a difference.

 

 

I do this as well and have done it with all my cars. I usually wait untill the engine idles down and then go, so naturally in the winter it takes a little longer. I have never had any issues doing this. This is only the 4th car I've ever owned so maybe I just dont have a big enough ratio yet lol.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some of you guys would poop a little if you talked to someone in Europe, Asia, etc. They'll routinely go the equivalent of 15K+ MILES on the same oil/filter. We're talking NA, gasoline engines using conventional oils.

 

I'm sure you guys have seen/heard of BITOG. If you want to understand everything motor oil, it's the only place to go.

 

Regardless, I like 5-6Kmi oil/filter changes. I always do them myself and use decent stuff.

 

Joel

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  • 3 weeks later...

They told me to go more than 8K, but that is pushing it, even for me. This was cheap dino oil at Walmart.

 

Awesome numbers! All your wear metals are very low, as is the silicon, indicating your engine air filtration is great. I believe no potassium indicates no traces of coolant in the oil.

 

Good stuff. You can bet 7500mi would be a very safe sweet spot for most of us with the 2.5i.

 

Thanks for posting that.

 

Joel

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Awesome numbers! All your wear metals are very low, as is the silicon, indicating your engine air filtration is great. I believe no potassium indicates no traces of coolant in the oil.

 

Good stuff. You can bet 7500mi would be a very safe sweet spot for most of us with the 2.5i.

 

Thanks for posting that.

 

Joel

 

No problem. I've tried synthetic oils as well, even Rotella 5w-40. Same wear numbers essentially, so I've stuck with the cheapo stuff. Sure, the EJ25 burns oil a little bit, meaning you need to top off a quart around 4-5k miles, but wear numbers look good at the 7500 mile interval and more.

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No problem. I've tried synthetic oils as well, even Rotella 5w-40.

 

Yep, I LOVE Rotella-T 5w40 and 15w40 for my small air-cooled stuff. 5w40 flows as easily cold (if not easier) than your typical conventional 5w30 does.

 

I used to experiment quite a bit with different oils & viscosity ranges in my vehicles when conventional oil was a dollar something a quart and synthetic was $3. Not so much anymore!

 

That- and I try to maximize fuel economy. A 40wt in a 2.5i is going to get you a tiny bit less MPG. If you lived in the Tropics or changed your oil every 15-20Kmi, 5w40 would be the only way to go.

 

Joel

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