Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

New Leggy owner- transition to synthetic w/ high mileage?


Recommended Posts

I only put 2.5 quarts of oil in to offset the 60 weight oil I use. Twice the weight, half the volume. That's OK right?
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply
talking about engine design, s2k and subie are day&night different... and our dear Subie has a turbo which has a banjo bolt filter ...:redface:

 

I'm driving the non-turbo version. There is a banjo bolt issue on early s2k's too. Not sure if it is the same issue, but they all had to be replaced. Not really sure what the banjo bolt even is. I had an AP2, so i never had the issue.

 

Does a higher weight synthetic work fine? If i use Amsoil should i stick with 5w30?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just removed the banjo bolt all together.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm driving the non-turbo version. There is a banjo bolt issue on early s2k's too. Not sure if it is the same issue, but they all had to be replaced. Not really sure what the banjo bolt even is. I had an AP2, so i never had the issue.

 

Does a higher weight synthetic work fine? If i use Amsoil should i stick with 5w30?

 

For our customers and ourselves we generally run 5w30 in the winter and 5w40 in the summer and for track applications.

 

-mike

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm driving the non-turbo version. There is a banjo bolt issue on early s2k's too. Not sure if it is the same issue, but they all had to be replaced. Not really sure what the banjo bolt even is. I had an AP2, so i never had the issue.

 

Does a higher weight synthetic work fine? If i use Amsoil should i stick with 5w30?

 

how is this "05 legacy gt unlimited with 98xxx miles" a non-turbo version ... :confused::confused::confused:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

galiff, just use a good 5w-30 in your non-turbo 2.5

 

Learn to check the oil and top it off as needed between the 3500 mile oil changes. It doesn't matter if the oil is dino or man made.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm....(get's up walks out and checks the oil.....)

 

Guess I'm one of the lucky ones. Mobile 1, 2,500 miles no consumption at all. The oil is still clear but a few shades darker. Car just clocked 50k.

 

Giving some thought to changing given what I'm hearing. And checking on a more consistent basis, though I think the guys that are doing it twice a week or less are being a anal...:icon_mrgr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, already? What weight dino oil was it using previously? What weight synthetic did you switch to and brand? Sorry to hear man

 

Previously 5w30. Switched to 5w40 Pennzoil Platinum. Really regretting it. Edit: New oil pan and filter replacement 150 miles after switching to synthetic. Not sure if it's a coincidence or not. Either way subaru is asking about $700 to replace the pan and filter. So butthurt right now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well it seems like they flushed the old oil and put in some new stuff. Probably dino 5w30. Hope they didn't just mix it in considering of what I previously had in there... Car seems to be running a bit more sluggish though. Definitely not as crisp as before. Think I should call them and ask em if they used dino 5w30 or just assume they did considering it's their standard haha. (You know what they say about assumptions..)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

just a guess.

 

Subaru folks seem to blame oil for their motors woes instead of the car maker & sometimes the person looking at them in the mirror. Mobil 1 is most popular synthetic so most likely in the most cars and when one has problems folks jump on the band wagon its the oil. The only real way to tell is a used oil analysis but seems extreme to me.

so true!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there are oil analysis posts around the forum that shows 5w-30 mobil 1 wears much faster than other, store-bought brands and end up "thinner" quicker, potentially leaing your main and rod bearings at risk, also this can account for the unusually high consumption people experience with mobil 1 5w-30

 

As a contribution to this thread, I had a thunderbird that had over 200k miles... It ran like a champ with Castrol Synth blend or standard high-mileage. I replaced the trans in it and the rear main seal, and wanted to see how it'd run with Mobil 1 5w-30.

 

After about 1-2 weeks it blew a head gasket. I'm not using Mobil 1 again, and I will not switch a dino oiled car over 150k to synth ever again. The Legacy has had Castrol Edge 5W-30 the whole time I've owned it (80k miles when purchased up til 120k miles today), and it does not burn any oil. Runs great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have 2 '05 Turbo 5 speed manuals.

 

Baja with 95,000 miles.

 

Outback with 20,000 miles.

 

Mobil 1 was constantly being topped off.

 

Changed both vehicles to Motul over 70,000 cumulative miles ago.

 

Oil level never fluctuates, (read burns) since.

 

Just a thought.

 

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problems encountered by changing to synthetic with a high mileage engine is going to come from the superior cleaning characteristics of synthetics. The synthetics will clean gunk out of the motor at such a rate that an oil filter change after 500-1000 miles is a good idea. If you see new leaks with the synthetic, it's because gunk was clogging them up and it got cleaned out. A blown head gasket was either totally unrelated or carbonized oil was helping to seal the gasket and it was going to blow at some point anyway.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well it seems like they flushed the old oil and put in some new stuff. Probably dino 5w30. Hope they didn't just mix it in considering of what I previously had in there... Car seems to be running a bit more sluggish though. Definitely not as crisp as before. Think I should call them and ask em if they used dino 5w30 or just assume they did considering it's their standard haha. (You know what they say about assumptions..)

 

Any news on the leaks? Have they stopped since switching?

 

 

I'm kind of more sketchy about switching it up due to reported issues considering the cleaning properties when using synthetic. With that said, i don't think i'm going to risk getting any unwanted leaks given i'm financially recovering from this purchase along with the timing/water pump service

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright, I'm back. Leak is just about gone at this point! Awesome news, I know. And to think Subaru was trying to charge me $700 to repair it. I think what MAY have happened is what Dirty Dan mentioned.

 

All I know is that it's leaking less and less. Almost nothing now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't forget to change your oil filter and top it off. The sludge that gets cleaned ends up in the filter and you don't want it restricting the flow or by-passing.

Just for something to chew on, there are several base oils used in synthetic oils. The most common is PAO (it's also the cheapest). The "high mileage" oils add a small amount of ester base oil. The reason is ester based oil was the original Mobil 1 base oil, and the one that leaked out of most motors in the 70's. What the ester does is soften and swell the gaskets, because it chemically attacks the rubber gaskets. A small amount in the oil blend can be a way to seal up old hard, worn gaskets and seals. It also has substantial cleaning affect, much more than PAO, and far superior lubricating properties. Ester is one of the most expensive synthetic base oils, but to run it unblended, the seals in the engine, must be compatible with it or it will cause major leaks. I tried it once in the mid-70's and back then I could change the oil (filter & 5 quarts of Castrol GTX) for about $5. Mobil 1 was $4.95 a quart. I lost a quart in less than 1000 miles and it was the same cost to change it out as to buy 1 quart and refill. What it did do was clean out my 30,000 mile motor such that it never held the same oil pressure afterwards as it did before. I didn't use a synthetic again until the mid 90's after I went to a Castrol school and found out why.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use