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Distinguishing the SPT short shifter


MasAyinde

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Well if I bend the linkage then the clevis will be too high to match up with any point on the stock shifter's range of motion. The only solution is to cut and weld the shifter first, then bend the linkage and move the shifter back and forth until I see where the hole on the shifter and the clevis match up. It will be a little closer to the firewall, but hopefully not too much.
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If the adapter is the same thing as other STS, then why are the gear throws longer in 1,3,5 then 2,4? I don't believe I experience that using my Kartboy STS. I'll take a video later but I'm pretty sure about that.

 

The more I think about it, the more I'm willing to admit I was wrong.... But now I want to know, it should behave like other STS though based on, but why doesn't it? Like you said, it just moves the shift point up.

 

Granted, the knob's position will be slightly different because the Perrin's pivot point has been moved forward relative to where the shift knob is, BUT that shouldn't affect the throw lengths between 1,3,5 and 2,4.

 

:confused:

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I can agree with you on that some, and the only thing that I can say that would possibly be the culprit, is you need to turn the shift arm 180* in the ball socket to install the perrin so the stock attachment point is facing to the rear, so take the forward facing bend in the shifter and now thats on the rear. That may be the reason for the difference in the throws, but at the same time bending that secondary arm shouldn't cause any damage to the trans and can only help correct any geometry mess up's/clearance issues. It may not completely fix the shorter throws either.
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So if you buy a STS the distance from the ball to where the arm that goes to your trans still moves up thats right? but if you do that with a perrin adapter then your making it wrong?

 

From what I can see a STI STS shifter is a new physical shifter and also both the lower support arm, and the connecting arm that goes to the trans, so if he takes the two stock parts he has and tries to replicate what the STI shifter does then I see nothing "wrong" with that. also all the other aftermarket STS are simply the arm so they do nothing more than the Perrin adapter, so if you think the Perrin is a wrong then the others must also be doing the same amout of wrong, leaving only the STI as the right way.... Thats if I'm understanding you correctly.

 

note the three arms included... yes the one with the bushing in it doesn't matter since it doesn't move, but the other two make up the shift geometry as a whole.

 

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/i/m/imagemakercanqtx0p_1.jpg

 

The worst he can do is make it physically harder for him to shift by messing up the geometry, I doubt it would cause any damage to the trans itself since the shifting parts in the trans wont be modified.

 

Whats weird is I am doing a 6 speed swap and purchased the Spec B STS for my swap.

 

I already had and STI shifter with a lengthened rod that came with the transmission.

 

When I compared the two it did not look like the pivot point was any different.

 

So I don't know if the STI shifter is a shorter throw like the Spec B Short Throw shifter or if the STI shifter I had was in fact a short throw shifter.

 

Here is a not very good pick of the two side by side. The Silver one is the Spec B STS

 

http://gallery.me.com/gregnauman/100050/IMG_0641/web.jpg

 

See how the pivot point distance from the ball down in the rubber boot to where the rod connects to the shifter handle is about the same length.

 

This is the part that usually changes when you get a short throw. My cobb double adjustable for my 5 speed could change the length of this portion

 

http://gallery.me.com/gregnauman/100050/IMG_0639/web.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
So after sitting down and going through everything with the welding shop by me and waiting I week, I called and they said that they haven't been working all week since the flooded and they've been trying to clean up and get their equipment working. Hopefully I'll have it sometime this week.
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See him prying up the corner? Except in our car, I believe that corner piece isn't a separate piece you can just pop off.

 

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/powertrain/134303880-perrin-short-shift-adapter-diy.html

 

If you read the instructions on the Cobb double adjustable it tells you to cut that left corner out so it doesn't hit the shift rod when you increase the pivot angle.

 

Here is mine from being cut out when I had the Cobb Shifter with my five speed.

 

You can just barely see it but i cut it so the plat was square instead of angled across the upper left area where the shift rod goes through.

 

http://gallery.me.com/gregnauman/100050/Spec%20B%20STD/web.jpg?

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If you read the instructions on the Cobb double adjustable it tells you to cut that left corner out so it doesn't hit the shift rod when you increase the pivot angle.
I know, I have a Kartboy STS, I had to grind the corner down too.
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I was.... I had a cobb STS in when my 5 speed was still in the car. In the installation instructions it tells you to cut the corner of the plate you see behind my 6 speed shifter in the picture. I was just providing a current picture of what the plate looked like and how I cut it out in the past.

 

I actually am going to get the new Cobb STS for the 6 speed as well, they just came back out with them.

 

Hope that helps clear it up.

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