MasAyinde Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 Yeah I can figure out how to do it, I'd like to see a video of the shifter movement though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Mine isn't adjusted at full either... if I bend up that metal like in the install pics above I can get a bit shorter throw. http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/th_VIDEO0010.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Hmm, the reviews were right. 1,3,5 have a longer throw than 2 and 4. You can clearly see it in your video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 indeed they do...hmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Shit, forgot about this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 The geometry is indeed different. Here's a photo I took a few years ago. STi short throw is on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 I'm wondering WTF I have now. The top of mine looks like the OEM and the bottom is as long as the STi. I guess I need to hunt down pictures of the linkage now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Here's some dimensions I pulled for you yesterday.. Throws average about 4.5-5inches OD to OD Height from the trim to the top of the knob in neutral is about 6.25 This is all with a Momo Shift knob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Well, since I have an extra shift assembly, I'm going to take BGTLimited's advice and order the Perrin SS adapter and bend the linkage inside the car so that I can get some crazy short throws. I'll use the extra assembly to cut some of the material from right below the threads weld it right above the ball and bend the linkage inside the car. I'll see which one I like more and when it's all said and done, one of them is going to be up for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Diy ftw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 I'm not against DIY, I just didn't want to do it when I only had one assembly and it's my DD. I bought an assembly from a guy who told me it was the STi/SPT and it turned out to be the OEM. He refunded my money so it's all good. Now I just have an extra to play around with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 You don't bend the linkage, but you bend a metal bracket that is right near where the linkage goes into the tunnel and out of the car, when you are lifting the linkage up to meet where you put the Perrin adapter it will touch when using 1st 3rd and 5th so just a little tweak up to clear is fine. You'll see exactly what I mean when you go to install it. Also Perrin includes instructions on how to adjust it and what to bend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 What I'm saying is that I want to bend the linkage so that instead of it going a little forward for 1st and all the way back for 2nd, it will go the same amount for both. I want to bend it so the clevis is physically higher. Attached is a drawing done by a 2nd grader of what I want to do. http://i.imgur.com/YW6lC.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I see what your saying... Actually not a bad idea to try one of these days on mine. Did you pay the second grader with a cookie for that one? because it has really good detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 I plan to get the cutting/welding done this weekend, so I'll have some pictures for you folks. Hopefully it turns out as well as I'm imagining it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I don't think bending the linkage is a good idea. The linkage is designed to operate within a certain range of motion for positive engagement of your gears. The reason the throw feels longer in one direction is because of the messed up positioning of the shifter. By bending the linkage, you are transferring the messed up positioning to your transmission instead. I wouldn't chance it. But hey, if you want to risk damaging something in your expensive transmission as opposed to just forking over a bit of money for a used STS, be my guest. You want the throw to be shorter but the height to be just as high? Solution: get a taller knob, or don't thread it in all the way. Wrap the threads with teflon tape so it threads down tight but higher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 I'm not touching the bottom linkage, only the top one to change the pivot point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 The plan MasAyinde has will not blow up his turbo like every wants to think when someone decides to do a DYI or custom project on their car. The linkage he is changing will not affect anything in a negative way, he is simply correcting the geometry change in the linkage arm for what he is changing in the shifter pivot location height. I'm very interested to see his results and will probably modify my own in the same way if the results are better than the Perrin or can work in conjunction with the perrin adapter. Then again I did buy the GMK test setup and M2 down pipes, then weld V-bands on them so I guess that would make me a rebel and willing to do just about anything. Rather than paying for a name or something thats half of what you really want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 If I'm understanding what you're trying to do, I think you're mistaken. That's not how it works. The bottom of the shifter is a ball that is used for swiveling/pivoting, nothing more. That hole that it sticks into is just that: a hole, nothing more. There's no second "bottom" linkage that attachs to that ball. The only piece that is attached to your transmission is that one long linkage that attachs to the Perrin adapter. You are talking about bending your ONE and ONLY linkage that goes to your transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 The plan MasAyinde has will not blow up his turbo like every wants to think when someone decides to do a DYI or custom project on their car. The linkage he is changing will not affect anything in a negative way, he is simply correcting the geometry change in the linkage arm for what he is changing in the shifter pivot location height. I'm very interested to see his results and will probably modify my own in the same way if the results are better than the Perrin or can work in conjunction with the perrin adapter. Then again I did buy the GMK test setup and M2 down pipes, then weld V-bands on them so I guess that would make me a rebel and willing to do just about anything. Rather than paying for a name or something thats half of what you really want. Well, he's free to do whatever he wants. I'm not saying it will blow up his transmission for sure, but I don't like telling people to do things without letting them know about the possible repercussions. I'm a DIYer too but I think it's silly what he's attempting to do because the geometry problem is a direct result of the Perrin STS adapter being "off". Bending the shift linkage to fix that problem sounds like trying to make two wrongs make a right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 If I'm understanding what you're trying to do, I think you're mistaken. That's now how it works. The bottom of the shifter is a ball that is used for swiveling/pivoting, nothing more. That hole that it sticks into is just that: a hole, nothing more. There's no second "bottom" linkage that attachs to that ball. The only piece that is attached to your transmission is that one long linkage that attachs to the Perrin adapter. You are talking about bending your linkage that goes to your transmission. I actually do see what you're saying. But what would be the difference between bending it and moving it up higher for the Perrin adapter? The effect on the transmission itself should be the exact same. It will only be a very slight bend to move the clevis forward by a bit more than half an inch, and a bit higher by about the same amount. I don't think that's enough to damage anything in the transmission. And the bending of that linkage is something I'd like to try even without the Perrin and just the welded lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I actually do see what you're saying. But what would be the difference between bending it and moving it up higher for the Perrin adapter? The effect on the transmission itself should be the exact same. It will only be a very slight bend to move the clevis forward by a bit more than half an inch, and a bit higher by about the same amount. I don't think that's enough to damage anything in the transmission.If you're willing to chance that, by all means, go right ahead and let us know how everything goes. If anything though, you should be thinking of bending your SHIFTER, not your LINKAGE for several reasons: 1) Your SHIFTER is off alignment, not your transmission. 2) A SHIFTER is significantly cheaper and easier to replace 3) You can work on the shifter from outside of the car and make more precise adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 So if you buy a STS the distance from the ball to where the arm that goes to your trans still moves up thats right? but if you do that with a perrin adapter then your making it wrong? From what I can see a STI STS shifter is a new physical shifter and also both the lower support arm, and the connecting arm that goes to the trans, so if he takes the two stock parts he has and tries to replicate what the STI shifter does then I see nothing "wrong" with that. also all the other aftermarket STS are simply the arm so they do nothing more than the Perrin adapter, so if you think the Perrin is a wrong then the others must also be doing the same amout of wrong, leaving only the STI as the right way.... Thats if I'm understanding you correctly. note the three arms included... yes the one with the bushing in it doesn't matter since it doesn't move, but the other two make up the shift geometry as a whole. http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/i/m/imagemakercanqtx0p_1.jpg The worst he can do is make it physically harder for him to shift by messing up the geometry, I doubt it would cause any damage to the trans itself since the shifting parts in the trans wont be modified. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 I'm only doing this because I have a spare shifter assembly, so destroying a part isn't a big concern. I saw a short shift assembly for the STi that had a more aggressive bend in the linkage, which gave me the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I'm only doing this because I have a spare shifter assembly, so destroying a part isn't a big concern. I saw a short shift assembly for the STi that had a more aggressive bend in the linkage, which gave me the idea. That's my exact point, the arm is modified/different to accept the higher point on the shifter... Where when using the Perrin adapter to achieve that higher point you need to now bend a metal plate to allow your shift arm to clear... Sounds smarter to me if you correct the bend in the arm to match that of the STI one... You don't necessarily have to cut or weld anything on the shifter unless your trying to obtain something slightly different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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