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Steady VDC + Flashing BRAKE Dash Indicator Lights


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Christmas light will also come on if the gas cap is not properly sealed.

 

This will clear the lights:

 

Put key in car.

Rotate key to second-ON position but don't start engine.

Count ten seconds.

Return key to OFF.

Repeat two more times.

Start engine.

Lights reset.

 

In the future, consider an inexpensive OBDII BT adapter and Torque Pro app for androids. $20 solution that works on all cars with an OBDII port

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tjp I had the exact same code flashing on my '11 H6 auto. Car is going to the dealer tomorrow with a mechanic I trust. I will post his findings in detail hopefully tomorrow night.

 

On mine the codes/lightshow came back in a week.

 

How many miles on yours, we are at 21K.

 

60k

 

wife has made it to work by now and didn't hear from her so Im guessing its still clear........

 

we did try turning the key on and off and it did not clear

 

 

and yes, she did get fuel before the oil change so might be the gas cap

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wife had oil changed in 2011 legacy H4, 6 speed man, today. While driving home she has a steady check engine light, steady brake light, flashing traction control light (or maybe thats VDC) and flashing cruise light. No cruise control and parking break must be turned off manually. she tried the turning the key on and off 5 times, that didn't work. she is now trying the negative battery terminal disconnecting for an hour. What up? will that work or take it to the dealer.

 

It's always a good idea to read a code before clearing it - that way you will know if it's something simple/stupid like the gas cap or if it's something serious that means that you shall visit the shop right away to get fixed.

 

If you have a problem and clear the code the problem can grow worse and more expensive.

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For anyone with Dash christmas lights....

In the future, consider an inexpensive OBDII BT adapter and Torque Pro app for androids. $20 solution that works on all cars with an OBDII port
^ This ^

It's always a good idea to read a code before clearing it - that way you will know if it's something simple/stupid like the gas cap or if it's something serious that means that you shall visit the shop right away to get fixed. If you have a problem and clear the code the problem can grow worse and more expensive.
And ^ this ^.
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In the future, consider an inexpensive OBDII BT adapter and Torque Pro app for androids. $20 solution that works on all cars with an OBDII port

 

I have a throttle controller installed. Think using a OBD2 splitter will have a negative affect on having both a throttle controller and OBD2 BT adapter?

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Good question faded. I think it could... even with just one OBDII device connected, if the polling rate is too high it can wreak havoc in the bus and cause all sorts of issues (from christmas lights, to fake/false error codes, engine/transmission stalling).
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Good question faded. I think it could... even with just one OBDII device connected, if the polling rate is too high it can wreak havoc in the bus and cause all sorts of issues (from christmas lights, to fake/false error codes, engine/transmission stalling).

 

That totally sounds plausible. Thanks. :cool:

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I have a throttle controller installed. Think using a OBD2 splitter will have a negative affect on having both a throttle controller and OBD2 BT adapter?

 

I have the throttle controller too. I bought an inexpensive odbii port on eBay, used a couple of the extra metra connectors I had left over from the quad-brake light mod, added a fuse tap, and made a harness so I didn't have to use the car's odb port anymore for the TC. My UltraGauge now occupies that.

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Good question faded. I think it could... even with just one OBDII device connected, if the polling rate is too high it can wreak havoc in the bus and cause all sorts of issues (from christmas lights, to fake/false error codes, engine/transmission stalling).

 

The throttle controller is not an actual ODB device, it only uses the odb port for power. One connection is ground, the other connection goes from the odb port directly to the fuse box and then to the battery.

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The throttle controller is not an actual ODB device, it only uses the odb port for power. One connection is ground, the other connection goes from the odb port directly to the fuse box and then to the battery.

 

Reading up on the throttle controllers - it's essentially doing the same thing as the SI-Drive, which is tricking the driver into a different response of the car.

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  • 9 months later...
I have a 2011 Legacy 2.5 LTD. The brake light on the dash flashes steadily. My dealer says the module is bad for the electronic parking brake and must be replaced. And if I don't fix it, the parking brake could apply at any time on its own, even while I am driving. True or BS??
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  • 3 years later...
New to the page...I just purchased a used 2011 legacy about 4 wks ago. And this issue has happened 4 times during those 4 wks. The very next morning after I brought it home, I was driving to work and the dash lit up. I returned it to the dealer the next day as it was still drivable. They didn't tell me what the codes were but replaced the converter and told me it was fine. 2 days later lights on again. They replaced the MAF sensor. Needless to say, lights on again. They replaced the converter a second time. This time I got 5 whole days with no issues until this wk it happened again. They have been great to work with as far as paying for all the repairs and lending me a loaner while they had my car, but the problem I have is the issue is still occurring. This vehicle came with and aftermarket remote start. Would that have anything to do with what's going on?? Taking it to an auto store in the morning so I can see what the codes are. Any other ideas what it is? Thanks!
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