faded-a-fool Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 Sadly, yes and I've even switched to those VLEDa Platinum v2 bulbs. I need to install some resistors. Managed to read a few codes with Torque. All generic and benign. CANbus going crazy. I'll post up the codes soon. OK cool. Nevermind the PM I sent you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faded-a-fool Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 I'm trying to find out some answers in the Outbak forum as well. A few members over there are using the VLEDs Red Platinum led's without issue (recently purchased less than 2 mo ago). A member mentioned that the issue could be coming from bad BIU control units. Would it be beneficial to try and purchase these platinum LEDs again? Or am I comparing apples to oranges in regards to model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 I think its apples to apples. I wish the Platinums' wouldve fixed it and I'm unwilling to buy the Tritons (4x or 2x). I got my Platinums in late May/early June. Same difference. Swapped out a set of perfectly working superbrightLED 45 SMD towers. In both cases, after repeated stop/drive cycles (especially when the stop light circuit is triggered a few times quickly and/or for longer periods), the 'christmas' lights on the dash come back on. No DTC codes, just CAN bus errors that clear with each ignition cycle. Total crap. What's a BIU control (Body Integrated Unit) unit?... UPDATE: Nevermind, found this thread: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/19097-biu-body-integrated-unit-location-print.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 Sadly, yes and I've even switched to those VLEDa Platinum v2 bulbs. I need to install some resistors. Managed to read a few codes with Torque. All generic and benign. CANbus going crazy. I'll post up the codes soon. I have a bunch of power resistors that I removed when I installed my TapTurn relay. If we are able to meet up at the next TSD July 27th, we can try them out and see if they help any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 I have a bunch of power resistors that I removed when I installed my TapTurn relay. If we are able to meet up at the next TSD July 27th, we can try them out and see if they help any.That would be great nstg8r! Thx. I will be there. Have a early prototype 2nd gen TapTurn installed (Scott's revision before the nice OE housings were added recently with a few new functions). I also have two 50ohm resistors waiting to be spliced in. I'll hold off so we can look together on the 27th. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 That would be great nstg8r! Thx. I will be there. Have a early prototype 2nd gen TapTurn installed (Scott's revision before the nice OE housings were added recently with a few new functions). I also have two 50ohm resistors waiting to be spliced in. I'll hold off so we can look together on the 27th. 50 ohm or 50 Watt? The ones I have are 8.2 & 10 ohms and are rated for 50 Watts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Oops, 50W yes @ 6 ohms. http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/tail-light-load-resistor-kit/190/831/ Lets see what works best and is the minimum needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 Oops, 50W yes @ 6 ohms. http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/tail-light-load-resistor-kit/190/831/ Lets see what works best and is the minimum needed. Keep in mind, less resistance = more heat (Wattage). A 10Ω resistor will produce around 16W while a 6Ω resistor will produce around 27W. Unlike turn signals which blink on and off, when you're sitting at a red light there will be constant power to the resistors and they will heat up significantly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Makes perfect sense. If I can (aghem) 'borrow' (read: buy) your 8.2 or 10ohm 50W. That would be great. I'd take two and I guess I'd use some metal zipties to hang them by the sheet metal near the tailights. Even @ 16W I guess they can get fairly hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Makes perfect sense. If I can (aghem) 'borrow' (read: buy) your 8.2 or 10ohm 50W. That would be great. I'd take two and I guess I'd use some metal zipties to hang them by the sheet metal near the tailights. Even @ 16W I guess they can get fairly hot. I got a few spare LEDs and other stuff, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faded-a-fool Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Just picked up some 7 watt 7443 brake LED's from China... We'll see if the 7 watt draw makes a difference. Hopefully my car doesn't burn to the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marjonz Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Hi all, just my two cents. My JDM Legacy 2003 GT did the same as the rest: SPORT icon blinking and the transmission upshifts to 4th gear on about 20-30 kph. Brought it to the dealer and they confirmed it is the LED Brake lights that I swapped. I used the same as ^faded-a-fool's China 7443 high power LEDs (off of ebay "2 x 7.5W Lens Buid-In Chip Red Cree Q5 T20 7443 7440 Car Tail Led Bulb Light New"), but that I guess did not help. Even at 7.5W draw (which is freaking bright!), I still get the error and the ECU goes haywire. Might need to install the resistors, but hesitant to do so on the basis of the heat it produces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 Faded and Perscitus, you both have 2010's, I have a 2012. There must be something different about the ECM from My to MY. Also, after looking at the wiring diagram, there is a Stop Light Resistor and Stop Light Condenser located somewhere in the dashboard behind the radio. Not sure what the condenser does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faded-a-fool Posted July 8, 2013 Share Posted July 8, 2013 Faded and Perscitus, you both have 2010's, I have a 2012. There must be something different about the ECM from My to MY. I think you are right and is the reason why the same bulbs I used work in your car. FML Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 Yep, same here. Would also explain why some 2012/13s have no issue with the LED turn signals and 'hyper flash' with stock flasher units. In part because of the LED turn signal strips in the Outback special USDM trim for 2013. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Yep, same here. Would also explain why some 2012/13s have no issue with the LED turn signals and 'hyper flash' with stock flasher units. In part because of the LED turn signal strips in the Outback special USDM trim for 2013. I had the hyperflash with the turn signals until I used resistors which I eventually replaced with a TapTurn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faded-a-fool Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 So I guess I'll need resistors if I want to use LED brake lights. Shitty :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 Yeah, it seems we'll have to. I will be trying some 50W 6ohm ones in a week or two, hoping they'll be enough to bring the draw back within spec. If not I'll just continue to drive with them off. The dash Christmas light come on eventually after x miles and stop/brake cycles, but reset with each ignition cycle. Annoying but I'll live with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faded-a-fool Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Yeah, it seems we'll have to. I will be trying some 50W 6ohm ones in a week or two, hoping they'll be enough to bring the draw back within spec. If not I'll just continue to drive with them off. The dash Christmas light come on eventually after x miles and stop/brake cycles, but reset with each ignition cycle. Annoying but I'll live with it. Ok cool. Let me know how the resistors work and how/where you mounted them. Less heat the better as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjp Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 wife had oil changed in 2011 legacy H4, 6 speed man, today. While driving home she has a steady check engine light, steady brake light, flashing traction control light (or maybe thats VDC) and flashing cruise light. No cruise control and parking break must be turned off manually. she tried the turning the key on and off 5 times, that didn't work. she is now trying the negative battery terminal disconnecting for an hour. What up? will that work or take it to the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 wife had oil changed in 2011 legacy H4, 6 speed man, today. While driving home she has a steady check engine light, steady brake light, flashing traction control light (or maybe thats VDC) and flashing cruise light. No cruise control and parking break must be turned off manually. she tried the turning the key on and off 5 times, that didn't work. she is now trying the negative battery terminal disconnecting for an hour. What up? will that work or take it to the dealer.Likely a hard-DTC that's registered in the ECUs memory and won't clear with just one or a few iginition cycles. Best to get the code scanned at an AutoZone/PepBoys/AdvanceAutoParts/Napa/etc. to see what got triggered and take it from there. Depending on what it is - you can decide if its worth the hassle of going to the dealer, something you can fix on your own or clear and forget (until/unless it sets again). Disconnecting the battery is not the best idea because you'll likely clear the code but won't know what happened or what triggered it in the first place. Wait for it to come back and read it before you clear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjp Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Will it clear for now until it returns. she has already disconnected the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 Yep should clear after even a short period of time. 15-30 minutes for a complete reset, overnight if you want to go brute-force. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjp Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 yep, its gone. Hope it stays that way. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DugsSin Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 tjp I had the exact same code flashing on my '11 H6 auto. Car is going to the dealer tomorrow with a mechanic I trust. I will post his findings in detail hopefully tomorrow night. On mine the codes/lightshow came back in a week. How many miles on yours, we are at 21K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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