mwiener2 Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 it should pulse in just about any engine except ones with a dry sump, at idle My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 Drain the oil, drive until it spins a bearing, call your lawyer, get a rental for the next few months. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Drain the oil, drive until it spins a bearing, call your lawyer, get a rental for the next few months. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA:lol::lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 it should pulse in just about any engine except ones with a dry sump, at idle Even on those, you'll get pulsing out of the filler neck. You always have some crank-case pressure, that's the whole point of a PCV system. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csbrown28 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 +1 "After you recognized a problem, they told you to drive the car back with no oil in it ,which is absolutely the stupidest thing they could have told you." Here is an example of what an engine can take.... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtKgOk-j3Zo]YouTube - HONDA CIVIC ENGINE BLOW UP[/ame] Course There was a V6 Taurus in another vid that didn't last 1 min. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RabidWombat Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I'd bet the turbo would fail before the engine. If its a standard quick lube place, drive in, pour oil out, add new oil, drive out, they won't let the car sit for long enough to really drain the oil out of the engine. They'll get almost all of it, but it'll leave a thin film on everything, which may protect you for a short period of time, so you may actually be fine. See if you can get a 1 yr warranty on engine/turbo. You'll get piece of mind and they won't have to immediately cover a new engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 So the problem with your honda video is that if you stopped the engine at any point of that, it would most likely not restart. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 That and it was under no load. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 bouncing off the rev limiter it was probly only firing every third My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csbrown28 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Look I hear what your saying, but running a car 1k over its redline for 5 min is pretty impressive, load or no load. In the end I'm not trying to prove anything, just though a few people might see some humor in it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDRVSLO Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 I love how it stopped....almost and just fired right on back up to redline.....and beyond. Hahaha! [ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 No load invalidated anything that video is trying to prove. Most engines would do the same thing if you just sat there and revved it to death. Hopefully you get in writing that they will replace the engine. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csbrown28 Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 No load invalidated anything that video is trying to prove. Most engines would do the same thing if you just sat there and revved it to death. Hopefully you get in writing that they will replace the engine. I'll respectfully disagree....The forces placed on an engine form 1k rpm to 2k rpm might be an additional 50%, but going from 6k rpm to 7k the forces are increased exponentially, it's possible the forces could be up 300-500%. Look I wish I was a math wizard and had the inclination and patience to calculate the change in forces moving 1k over the redline, I think it's safe to say that the lubrication system was never designed to lubricate the engine at those speeds. Furthermore, based on the condition of the car, a recent oil change and a full oil pan are unlikely, though I'll admit that these are things we can't know. Again, no point, but a decent show none-the-less.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SurlyOldManMN Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 What nobody has mentioned yet is the shop knows the engine is damaged. They're trying to limit exposure to "a few months" because they know full well what they did. It's a good deal for them if they can get you to commit in writing to releasing them from liability after a few months. Don't let that happen. Tell them they're paying for a full dealer/ase tech tear down and inspection, right now. They'll probably push back because they know what's going to happen next... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murderDOCkill Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 If you're still driving without 'problems' I'd suggest going to an independent place and getting a compresssion/drip/leak down test. Local DEALERSHIP charged me $200 but revealed that even though the car had good boost and drove decent enough on my day to day that there was indeed a problem with my #3 cylinder. Be proactive about this, the longer you wait the harder it will be to pass blame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhoggattjr Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Course There was a V6 Taurus in another vid that didn't last 1 min. well of course. its a ford. you be lucky if it runs with oil in it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1454 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 HAHAHAHAHAHAHA:lol::lol: Laugh, but that's what I would do. Unless the go ahead and buy the long block and pay for the labor at subaru to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Opie will get screwed on this, just watch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topshelfs30 Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 Well... still driving. still ok. Still thinking about trading in though. But the Legacy is the only car i like. Might just keep it. I am hoping as Rabidwombat said, maybe there was enough oil from not draining it fully to protect the engine enough for that minute or two. The car actually feels better than it ever has. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 I'll respectfully disagree....The forces placed on an engine form 1k rpm to 2k rpm might be an additional 50%, but going from 6k rpm to 7k the forces are increased exponentially, it's possible the forces could be up 300-500%. Look I wish I was a math wizard and had the inclination and patience to calculate the change in forces moving 1k over the redline, I think it's safe to say that the lubrication system was never designed to lubricate the engine at those speeds. Furthermore, based on the condition of the car, a recent oil change and a full oil pan are unlikely, though I'll admit that these are things we can't know. Again, no point, but a decent show none-the-less.... You can disagree all you want, but that doesn't mean you are right. What you run into at those high RPM's, is head failure (snapped spring, floated valve, spit shim, etc). Barring head failure, I'd say that almost any previously healthy engine will be able to do just what that Honda did. Look how many people rev their Subaru's above 6500. People take EJ25's and run them to 7500 or higher all the time. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csbrown28 Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 You can disagree all you want, but that doesn't mean you are right. You are correct....Just not sure what's so important in the overall scheme of things...Pick your battes I guess.. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Like I said, opie will get screwed or screw somebody else in advance. Topshelf, you need to get in writing that future failures related to lack of lubrication will be covered by the shop in question. Anything short of that and you are on your own. Trading it in is bending over backwards for that oil place AND "paying it forward" to a future fellow subie owner. Karma is a bitch and is like a boomerang, it comes back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1454 Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Seriously man, for your own sake and wallet, pull the thing up on jack stands and drain the oil, run it for 5 to ten minutes, take to the subie dealer, say it's knocking, then call the oil change place and tell them the issue. If they don't fix it get a lawyer and sue them for damages, legal fees, and hassle. That's what I would do. Rebuilds aren't cheap, and factory long blocks are even more expensive. I'm telling you this to protect yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topshelfs30 Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Seriously man, for your own sake and wallet, pull the thing up on jack stands and drain the oil, run it for 5 to ten minutes, take to the subie dealer, say it's knocking, then call the oil change place and tell them the issue. If they don't fix it get a lawyer and sue them for damages, legal fees, and hassle. That's what I would do. Rebuilds aren't cheap, and factory long blocks are even more expensive. I'm telling you this to protect yourself. What you are actually doing is telling me to screw myself in the ass. It would be very easy to launch an investigation which would require taking an oil sample and discovering the oil i re-fill the engine with is not the oil the shop put in my car when they sent me away. They would know i re-drained it and filled it back up after running it raw. Then i would be out a car, an engine, and a WHOLE LOT more money in leagal fees and possible jail time for fraud. Not to mention the record of this very webpage which is forever documented on the web. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 What you are actually doing is telling me to screw myself in the ass. It would be very easy to launch an investigation which would require taking an oil sample and discovering the oil i re-fill the engine with is not the oil the shop put in my car when they sent me away. They would know i re-drained it and filled it back up after running it raw. Then i would be out a car, an engine, and a WHOLE LOT more money in leagal fees and possible jail time for fraud. Not to mention the record of this very webpage which is forever documented on the web. This post makes me happy that my wife and I are considering relocation to Charleston. Draining the oil and running the car until death is a terrible idea. Even if you collect the drained oil, run it till death, then put the old oil back in, you are asking for trouble. Whatever you do, get in writing that they'll cover it. Then, take the car to an ASE certified shop and have them write off that the engine was designed to run with oil installed and the lack of oil causes irreparable damage and requires replacement of the engine. All that's left after that, is learning to change your own oil. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.