rtbrjason Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Idles rough to the point where it sounds and feels like the engine is missing the rubber portion of the motor mounts. No CEL's, the light does work because we d/c the maf sensor and it came on- the sensor is not at fault either. Pulled some logs and LV's, also pulled his map- its a stock map. At some points during logging i'd go to check the LV and it seems like the ecu was reset(0's across the table)- even though i did not reset it. I checl back again and the timing is pulled again. I'm on my phone, hopefully the OP will post all the files I gave him. Im wondering if the shaking is causing the FBKC to go nuts, so he's gunna check the mounts- When IAM changes the knock table resets back to 0. If you reset the car and it started at .5, knocked a bunch of times then went to .25 or 0 the table would have cleared. Any noises aside from the possible bad mount? I still think there is something mechanically wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PartyRock Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Some tapping but nothing crazy. Felt like a constant misfire. I suggested to move cyl 4 coil to another cylinder to see if that one misfires. What chaps my ass is that none of any of this debaucery is throwing a cel. Im waiting for youtube to process my video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Some tapping but nothing crazy. Felt like a constant misfire. I suggested to move cyl 4 coil to another cylinder to see if that one misfires. What chaps my ass is that none of any of this debaucery is throwing a cel. Im waiting for youtube to process my video. If it's running on a bad bearing or something it could limp around without ever throwing a code. As I mentioned earlier, I had total engine failure and never threw a code even when starting it back up. Still I think if this were the case it would be more audible.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PartyRock Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Yeah no bearing noise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy25GT2005 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 PartyRock, I want to thank you for taking the time to drive down and have a look at my son's LGT. I am sure your insight and knowledge will add greatly in the search to figure out what the heck is going on. Will post the files in an hour or so when the kid gets home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy25GT2005 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 first two links are romraider logs, second two are LV snapshots, last is ecu map. https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2aEuJiEjv06YTA5Y2QwYTQtMmJkNS00NGRjLTgxMGItOTllNTMyMzFiOWJh&hl=en_US&authkey=CLOVkN8N https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2aEuJiEjv06MjEzMWRlY2YtYzE1MS00ZWU3LThhMmItNjU4NTRhYTJlYTMx&hl=en_US&authkey=CLaCmNMM https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2aEuJiEjv06NWI1YjAwMGEtODU4My00NDVmLWE4MjctNTIxOWNhODMxMWNk&hl=en_US&authkey=CO_ApLIE https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2aEuJiEjv06MDAwZmU1ZDMtNThiOC00MDc0LTg2MjQtNWFmZTA1MmJmZGI0&hl=en_US&authkey=CNLF3eUE https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2aEuJiEjv06MDg4YzYyMWItYjIwOC00Y2FhLWJmMWItZGMxMmNlYTI5ODA5&hl=en_US&authkey=CNCJ2YUO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PartyRock Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 here is the video: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJ8bH9K4tFQ]YouTube - Legacy gt idle[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Sounds like mine and my brother's. Am I missing something? BTW, what is that red wire leading over the heat shield and under the intercooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Something sounds a bit odd towards the end of the video on the driver side as you get nearer the firewall. Might just be the video but there seems to be some noise other than the normal ticking. Looks like the wire is likely for an alarm horn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy25GT2005 Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Sounds like mine and my brother's. Is that good or bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 You and I seem to be having similiar issues. My brother and I are not. I'm debating doing a full remove and reinstall of all the group n mounts on my car this Friday when I install my stromung quad to see if one of them isn't quite tight enough. I get some juttering noise on startup and more vibration: it sounds like like something is shaking, same noise in reverse if I let the clutch out too fast. Hence my suspicion it's a mount or the flywheel/clutch. If it isn't the mounts, then I'm going to order a new front O2 sensor and a knock sensor to see if either of those is the culprit. I took the car to a Subaru pro shop and they said it sounded like it was missing a little, but my log of cylinder roughness has shown no indication of this. Do the automatics have a dual mass flywheel too? I am not very knowledgeable on automatics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 No, automatics have a driveplate that the torque converter bolts to... it's like a flywheel, but much thinner, you can see it here... http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/2696/enginepulled.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PartyRock Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I brefly thought it may have been something out of balance while driving, but when the tc locks up, even slight drivetrain vibes can exacerbate worn motor mounts. What the real problem is- are the vibes causing the severe timing retard? it def feels like the engine is shaking and bouncing off metal back and forth...like coming to a red light is when its worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I brefly thought it may have been something out of balance while driving, but when the tc locks up, even slight drivetrain vibes can exacerbate worn motor mounts. What the real problem is- are the vibes causing the severe timing retard? it def feels like the engine is shaking and bouncing off metal back and forth...like coming to a red light is when its worse. I think we're on to something here. I have similar symptoms. If it is a motor mount, I am discrediting my brother's ability to do a group n motor mount install in an hour The threads on one of my mounts did get messed up on the install, but we managed to rethred with a grade 8 nut while installed. Also, I did notice my group n trans mount seemed to have the paint flaking off it a bit, like there was some uneven loading on it. Perhaps that is part of the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 I found that my IPR TMIC was resting on my clutch master cylinder, so I shimmed the bolt (It creeped about 1/4"!). I also removed the knock sensor and retorqued it to factory specs. I have to do some more logging, but I may have alleviated the problem after an ECU reset and a couple runs. If I end up back at DAM/IAM of 0.0 or 0.3, there is something else triggering it. I also noted that my lower control arm bushing on the passenger side is worn and cracked much more than the Driver Side, so that may be another source of vibration. For S&G, take a look at them - you can do it fairly easily. Link to what they look like (orange AVO in this pic): http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/43880/2299000110074087040S600x600Q85.jpg I know m sprank had an issue where his broken end links or swaybar bushings were triggering the knock sensor every time he went over a bump, so this could be it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 I think we lost the OP. Probably traded it in.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Shame. These mind-boggling problems are the most enjoyable when finally solved! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Yeah, what's the latest? Been following and would like to know the outcome as well. Nearly been a week now.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy25GT2005 Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 I think we lost the OP. Probably traded it in.... No, we're still here. Sorry for being away for a few days. No real advancement yet. My son wants to get the engine mounts checked as that issue has been raised before. I also like the idea of checking control arm bushings and related hardware because I do think there is something not quite right there but never considered the possibility that it could be tied to this other problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I found the thread where m sprank mentioned it. It ended up being his endlinks triggering the knock sensor. I'm almost certain one of those is causing my issues, as bumpy roads now equate to a knock trigger. Try resetting the ecu and driving on the smoothest road section to see if it remains in normal mode. Then drive it on a horrifically bumpy road and see if it returns. I took a look at my brother's endlinks that just got removed and they are weak pieces of crap. thin metal and plastic ends do not equate to durability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I found the thread where m sprank mentioned it. It ended up being his endlinks triggering the knock sensor. I'm almost certain one of those is causing my issues, as bumpy roads now equate to a knock trigger. Try resetting the ecu and driving on the smoothest road section to see if it remains in normal mode. Then drive it on a horrifically bumpy road and see if it returns. I took a look at my brother's endlinks that just got removed and they are weak pieces of crap. thin metal and plastic ends do not equate to durability. That might have been my post... broken and weak endlinks were creating noise and pulling timing for me... so were worn swaybar bushings... took care of all that and my car is happy... do the LCA bushings while you are at it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Gonna do it all. Might as well throw on some RCE T1's while I'm at it Thanks for the feedback. I bet the OP is on the same boat. This took FOREVER to figure out ha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lylefk Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Sorry to go a bit OT here, but kudos to this community. Glad to have found you guys, coming over from the BMW world (and forums). Quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 I think you'll find it a very nice community. Also, I am pretty sure we all love us a good E30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye27dr Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 did this issue ever get resolved? i have the same EXACT issue with my 5EAT, 05lgt. Took it to dealer, they updated the ECU which made it SLIGHTLY better but not really. then wanted to charge me 3 hours of labor @ 115 an hour to open up the turbo and engine to see if they could 'maybe' find the issue.... I don't want to give up on the car since i love it in every aspect except this. gonna try another dealership. was hoping this thread would shed some light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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