m sprank Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 We are in San Marcos on the Escondido border. San Diego North County. I bet there is at least one shop in Chino Hills that knows how to get those off, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blklgt05 Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Absolutely. The shop is called La Puente Tire. DO NOT LET THEM TOUCH YOUR CAR! Bad work, bad customer service. Read Post 13 I went thru the same sht you are going thru and this is what solved the problem without damaging anything but that single lug nut. mod journal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew888 Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 a.lim Did you get any of them off yet? Is that pic of the wheel lock recent as in after they overtightened it? [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 I know someone who just had his tires changed over on his Pathfinder. The shop snapped a stud off tightening up a lug. Is there a good chance they've damaged the other studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Yes. Replace all of the studs. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Those locks are pretty easy to get off, go to any wheel shop in Pomona Stud changing on an LGT isn't bad at all (Rubber mallet), I had to change a few on my old LGT due to "excited wheel guys". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 It's pretty easy to replace the studs. A few swift hits, and they'll pop out. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milesej05 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 There's a reason why it says DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH right on the packaging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew888 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 I'm not seeing damage in that pic (or it's just my eyes). With key and a long breaker bar (or cheater bar added) I'm sure they'll come off. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.lim Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 a.lim Did you get any of them off yet? Is that pic of the wheel lock recent as in after they overtightened it? yupp still stuck. i got a letter from the bar today and my complaint is being resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.lim Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 I'm not seeing damage in that pic (or it's just my eyes). With key and a long breaker bar (or cheater bar added) I'm sure they'll come off. ive tried to get them off with a breaker, but no luck. im easily applying 200+ ft lb of torque on my wrench and it doesnt budge. the grooves on the key are too fragile for the applied stress.. it just snaps. oh yea btw.. my brand new premium rotors are starting to chatter under high speed braking.. could it be a relevant issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blklgt05 Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 ive tried to get them off with a breaker, but no luck. im easily applying 200+ ft lb of torque on my wrench and it doesnt budge. the grooves on the key are too fragile for the applied stress.. it just snaps. oh yea btw.. my brand new premium rotors are starting to chatter under high speed braking.. could it be a relevant issue? Yo, have you tried welding a nut on to the lug? My same oem mcgard lock was broken when the shop torqued it down the same way. My buddy had a welder at the time so we weld a nut on to it and easily took it off with a long ratchet. Just take it to any exhaust shop like valley mufflers or something. mod journal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.lim Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Yo, have you tried welding a nut on to the lug? My same oem mcgard lock was broken when the shop torqued it down the same way. My buddy had a welder at the time so we weld a nut on to it and easily took it off with a long ratchet. Just take it to any exhaust shop like valley mufflers or something. i havent yet. im going to see if a shop can take it off first, if not ill have to resort to this. thanks for the tip though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 You are running a pretty big risk by driving the car like it is. It's not unheard of that over-torqued lugs snap. It happened to someone with a red wagon on this board. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I told you we could get them off and replace the studs. Have tools, welders, everything required. Do it a few times a month. Someone always seems to forget their wheel lock key when they drop off their car, LOL. Getting them off is not a problem. It is putting them back on with out a key that we cant do, LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice_rocket Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I got these stupid kinds because my wheel holes are narrow: http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/3404/6ba520mz8.jpg Wondering if you can shed some advice on a type of larger bore key to get them off. I got a few off, but some are starting to strip with the key and I just decided to leave them for now until the summer kicks in where I can clean them with some penetrating solution to get the rust out.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBad Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I can't believe a shop actually used a torque gun on one of those... I had a partially broken wheel key lock myself that happen over the winter in a curb incident, took it in to my local dealer and they had it off in no time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.lim Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 I told you we could get them off and replace the studs. Have tools, welders, everything required. Do it a few times a month. Someone always seems to forget their wheel lock key when they drop off their car, LOL. Getting them off is not a problem. It is putting them back on with out a key that we cant do, LOL. i just dont have it in my schedule to drive down there.. if the shop was closer i would be down there asap can you quote me for taking off two wheel locks and replacing all the studs on the front two wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 I understand. I will send you a quote. You want OEM studs, or ARP? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.lim Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 I understand. I will send you a quote. You want OEM studs, or ARP? Can you quote me for both? And also if i supply my own studs? thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.lim Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 ok so to update this thread.. i went to a local tire/muffler shop and they got the wheel lock off! they welded on a socket on it and it came off after a couple tries. thanks blklgt05 for that tip! another thing.. im on new rotors with not even 5k miles on them and im experiencing violet vibrations when braking at high speeds. ive researched around and found that overtorquing causes the rotors to "warp" but there are so many misconceptions about this topic i dont know what to believe.. certainly my only assumption is to believe its true because my rotors started vibrating coupe months ago, which was around the time i took it to the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blklgt05 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 ok so to update this thread.. i went to a local tire/muffler shop and they got the wheel lock off! they welded on a socket on it and it came off after a couple tries. thanks blklgt05 for that tip! another thing.. im on new rotors with not even 5k miles on them and im experiencing violet vibrations when braking at high speeds. ive researched around and found that overtorquing causes the rotors to "warp" but there are so many misconceptions about this topic i dont know what to believe.. certainly my only assumption is to believe its true because my rotors started vibrating coupe months ago, which was around the time i took it to the shop. no problem @rotors... We all know rotor warping is caused by heat, so a lot of times that has to do with braking style. When I learned to downshift and make habit to brake shorter distances without holding on the brake pedals for too long especially at the light, my rotors seems to stay in good condition until next pad change. I can't really see how the lugnut would have anything to do with the rotor, but either way, the obvious thing to do now is to simply get them resurfaced. If you want to prevent warping, ceramic pads should help. mod journal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomkat1127 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 no problem @rotors... We all know rotor warping is caused by heat, so a lot of times that has to do with braking style. When I learned to downshift and make habit to brake shorter distances without holding on the brake pedals for too long especially at the light, my rotors seems to stay in good condition until next pad change. I can't really see how the lugnut would have anything to do with the rotor, but either way, the obvious thing to do now is to simply get them resurfaced. If you want to prevent warping, ceramic pads should help. I disagree. Improper lug nut torque can warp wheels and rotors, IMO. It has been my experience that resurfacing either can not cure warping or it just happens again but at a much faster rate. Besides heat/over use of the brakes. Sticking caliper slides, non-oem spec cheap pads and rotors, collapsing brake hoses can all cause braking issues which lead to warped rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lardo420 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 if an impact gun was used to put them on, couldn't an impact gun be used to take them off? If its the mere fact that the impact gun over-torqued them, wouldn't it posses the same power in the opposite direction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 You have pad build up. Not warped rotors. There is a ton of misinformation about rotor warping on the internet. I have pics of me racing where my rotors are glowing red in the pix. They never warped. Used for many races afterward. For all intents and purposes rotors do not warp. Not on street cars. 99.99% of driver complaints about shimmy are not from warping. It is pad material build up. Simply clean and re-bed. Then check your LCA bushings.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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