NickTej22 Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 why is there a spot for the 4th screw and a seconbd port on the gasket but not on the iac? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 This morning I took out my plugs and they were burnt black. Only a month old though so I cleaned them up. Also noticed the gaps were all at .050 or over so I set them at .044 and put them back in. I BELIEVE two of my plug wires were swapped wrong, I unplugged them without think but noticed they were crossed over so I put them on right. Cleaned the IAC a little better this time, and put the third bolt on. cleaned out the PCV valve and thew hoses around it, the one on it was gunked up. put everything back together and the car started right up without any hesitation at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 What did you use to clean the IAC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmd003 Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 why is there a spot for the 4th screw and a seconbd port on the gasket but not on the iac? I dunno, just is. Gasket is probably made to work for multiple different vehicles. This morning I took out my plugs and they were burnt black. Only a month old though so I cleaned them up. Also noticed the gaps were all at .050 or over so I set them at .044 and put them back in. I BELIEVE two of my plug wires were swapped wrong, I unplugged them without think but noticed they were crossed over so I put them on right. Cleaned the IAC a little better this time, and put the third bolt on. cleaned out the PCV valve and thew hoses around it, the one on it was gunked up. put everything back together and the car started right up without any hesitation at all. Hopefully that should take care of it. Keep us posted. What did you use to clean the IAC? 2+2 Carb Cleaner works great, spray in the valve and ports until it looks clean and no more black comes out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 I used just the PB blaster to break anything free, then cleaned it out thoroughly with MAF/Sensor cleaner. The problem still fully exists. Now I have videos. I posted the description in the,. Part 1. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkYVue1h6sA]YouTube - 1995 Subaru Legacy Brighton Starting Issue Pt.1[/ame]Â Part 2. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4NC62kr2I4]YouTube - 1996 Subaru Legacy Brighton Starting Issue Pt.2[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 everyone as stumped as me now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 After watching the videos what are the chances it's the MAF, TPS, IAC, IM gasket, or maybe a o2 Sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 Also I did some research, that mod I'm trying to explain is I guess called the "snorkus delete" I see a bunch of other people did it without issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 everyone gave up? Could it be the timing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted May 4, 2011 I Donated Share Posted May 4, 2011 I still think you have some kind of fuel deliver / fuel pressure problem. If you smell gas after you drive it, you have a fuel leak somewhere. That alone is probably half your problem. Or maybe even a short somewhere in the wiring harness really, it can be anything. This one is kind of hard to diagnose over the internet. Take it to the Subaru dealer and fork over $100 to have them diagnose it properly Sent from my Android Powered HD2 using Tapatalk -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 after finding out a tiny hose on the IM didn't get plugged back in we cleared the codes. I check timing belt, it was fine, crank sensor and all that. drove for a while, only codes that came back was heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 and coolant temp sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted May 4, 2011 I Donated Share Posted May 4, 2011 heater circuit? you mean o2 sensor heater circuit? Fix the check engine light codes and see what happens. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 O2 sensor is heater circuit on a obd2 scanner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted May 5, 2011 I Donated Share Posted May 5, 2011 O2 sensor is heater circuit on a obd2 scanner Some o2 sensors are heated, and some are not. fix the check engine light issues, then report back how its running. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 It'll be fixed around the 12th, I hope when I do that stuff. Now the Coolant temp sensor is that the one they put under the IAC just to piss people off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 vref is reference voltage. the ecu will learn as long as it is in the known good parameters. hence it has to be between .45v-.55v. .5v is prolly preferable. i discussed this same thing in another thread but i'll give you the illustration just in case you need it. and the a/c belt shouldn't cause that kind of problem. http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/207951_10150159160882679_506927678_6397180_1527060_n.jpg I'm going to check this out today, do you have a procedure to do this? Also do you probe the middle wire? I know the car is under different loads when the fans kick on and off, does this matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 So I had a non working multimeter, so can't do that today. BUT... I noticed my alternator was burning hot and I've replaced my link twice. I noticed my ground plug on the starter was REALLY gunked up, so I cleaned that, what lead me to believe that was because the car was giving me **** starting, and when I kept the key turned waiting for it to turn over last time is how I melted the fusible link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joelwatts Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 throttle position sensor. it is located on the pass side of the throttle body. you will need dvom (digital volt meter). take the red lead and backprobe the middle pin. i think it is a white wire. place the black lead on ground. w/ the key on, engine off, the volt meter display should be between .45v and .55v at closed throttle. then slowly open the throttle to wot (wide open throttle). the voltage should raise at an even rate and not go over about 4.5v. your not really worried about the wot range so much as 5-10% throttle opening range. your reference voltage (vref: the amount of voltage the tps sends as a location signal to the pcm) is prolly too low. as you depress the throttle, your pcm is looking for over .55v to know that the throttle is opened. if your closed throttle is low, the pcm wont realize that the throttle has moved until you have it open a good bit. then, the maf (mass air flow) and 02 sensors are sending conflicting signals to the pcm. maf vs. tps. the pcm then just dumps everything at once. if you don't have a dvom or the where-with-all to use one, you can trial and error it. loosen (just a little, don't remove them) the two phillips head screws on the tps. rotate the sensor until the screws are kinda in center of the slot in the tps. give it a drive and see if that helped. if not, you can keep moving and driving it a very small amount at a time. I'm a native of South Carolina. I am a dying breed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 I just did that yesterday, out was about .48 .49 at idle and hit .47 .38 when revved. It's hard to be certain with it digital it takes time to think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 I checked the TPS again and it was set wrong so I got a better ground and tested again and set it to .5003 something like that. When I revved it though it's unclear it seems to go up to 1.x and then down to .4xxx I can't tell if it's just because of the digital meter. When I went to start it it didn't turn over it just tried to turn over and eventually got a VERY hesitated start, When I gave it some gas it would sputter and then rev up hesitating kind of felt like a misfire or like it wasn't getting correct fuel or something. Plugs are fairly new and wires are fairly new. I tried to take a video of it idling weird but this is all I could get: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76DRc6mpm7U]YouTube - video 2011 05 09 16 15 03[/ame] The main symptoms: -Tough to start sometimes, If I shut it off and restart it, it'll either run better or give me a rough time - Car will die on me at very random - Car will seem to nail on the breaks while driving, if I throw it in neutral it will coast but hesitate idling and die. - I noticed everytime I start the car the exhaust sounds different. The other thing I noticed is my front coolant switch is leaking a little bit of oil from the top and my fans dont kick on and off correctly, they work whenever they want to, sometimes go on and off and on and off, sometimes on for a minute, sometimes only a few seconds. I had a code for coolant temp sensor, idk if that counts as the switch or the sensor itself. Also oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2, not sure where on the car it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 This is exactly what mine does!! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTniWdaKxew&NR=1]YouTube - Subaru Legacy 2003 start failure 08-04-07[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 So based off of about 7 threads around the webz I think I discovered the problem. It seems like my p0115 code for the coolant temp sensor is causing my fuel system to go into a choke type mode and based off of what I have for symptoms and codes and what other people had this has to be my exact issue. i'll get that on the 12th and report back here what I find. Do I have to drain the coolant??? Any other thoughts or suggestions please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 What other symptoms would p0115 coolant temp sensor, cause other then rough starting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joelwatts Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 just off the top of my head, the ects shouldn't cause a rough start. the engine controller isn't even looking at coolant temps until the engine is started and at steady idle. then it will determine where and how to idle/run the engine based upon engine temp and other things. if its cold, it will dump a lil more fuel. if the engine is already at n.o.t., then it should run a "slightly" leaner mixture and keep idle down. if your coolant temp sensor is bad, or if your not operating at temps the engine can manage, then you should have idle and light throttle problems. but not super significant ones. i'm with everyone else and think that it is definately a fuel problem. and being a technician, i would tell you to shell out and take it to someone well qualified to diagnose the problem. the chance that you'll come across a treasure map that leads to the source of all your problems on the web are slim to none. it sounds as if this veh has seen better days and that it will take a good bit to get it back to running properly. sorry. i know this doesn't help and i know how expensive it is to have things properly diagnosed but sometimes, you just have to know when to punt. I'm a native of South Carolina. I am a dying breed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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