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Rough start, rough driving and stalling


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Sometimes when I start my car it'll take a second to turn over and when it starts it'll putt, and I give it some gas and you can hear it stuttering. I shut it off and turn it back on and it runs fine.

 

Other times it will be driving under normal throttle and all of a sudden it will feel like I nailed the brakes even with my foot on the gas and it wont go anywhere and have to throw it in neutral, it will then stall out on me. Sometimes when it does this it doesn't always stall, but since it's acting weird i'll have to shut it off and restart it, sometimes a few times.

 

I have replaced the plugs, but then had a minor oil leak near them on the oil crank case, replaced the plug wires, sprayed the MAF with MAF spray, cleaned the throttle with throttle cleaner, sprayed the IAC with throttle spray and then a few days later took it off the car and sprayed it with MAF spray. I removed the air intake baffle(the big box part inside the fender that quiets the intake down) but I don't see why that would do anything considering aftermarket intakes would do the same problem if that's the case. I did notice the previous owner did a EGR bypass. But the car only just started really doing this recently.

 

Other notes, I'm losing some coolant it seems from the reservoir but not the actual radiator because it was full when I checked it. Also I'm burning through a lot of oil and the exhaust smokes white smoke under heavy throttle at a higher rpm. It is not overheating at all. Any thoughts would be awesome and I appreciate the reading I know I wrote a novel here.

 

The car is a 95 brighton 2.2, 163,xxx miles. 5 speed.

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Odd thing happened.. On my way home it didn't stall once, which is new. I got home and unplugged the fuel pump and started the car to depressurize the lines...however when I started the car it didn't die, it just sounded like a horizontal pumping lawn mower. Since I have my 8 month old by myself I just put the lid back on and said screw it for now.
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Is this something for like EVAP?? What happens if this goes kaput?

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/226623_10150585340715228_625470227_18386647_4188630_n.jpg

 

MY tank looks a little rotted if this is the tank? beside the fuel pump. I didn't even open the pump yet and it already completely smelled of fuel.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/225354_10150585341420228_625470227_18386655_5388138_n.jpg

Cant really see the angle, but where it starts to go down towards the ground it was chipping paint and crap.

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stopped doing it today for 2, 15 mile trips(usually it stalls about 6 times in a few miles lately). But on the way home tonight I was driving with my foot on the pedal at one spot, not accelerating or decelerating, and all of a sudden my car slows way down, and then all of a sudden speeds up really fast to where it should have been, and it caused my fiances sobe drink to go up her nose. The whole time my foot was at one position.
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already messed with that, it's still working.

 

is it at the correct vref? should be .45-.55v at closed throttle. that was my problem. it was set at .2 at closed. morons at the sube dealer did that to the previous owner. i actually fixed it on the test drive.

I'm a native of South Carolina. I am a dying breed.
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One thing I noticed, I had some a/c issues, and had to use some sealant and 2 cans of freon, and my a/c makes a loud sound when it comes on, it sounds exactly as if you were to take to ratchet extensions and hit them together, kind of like a pop. I noticed my a/c belt was too lose and the tensioner was screwed up so I tightened the tensioner by tapping it down (tightening the belt direction) with a small hammer. Now my belt seems really tight, Could this be a problem?
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vref is reference voltage. the ecu will learn as long as it is in the known good parameters. hence it has to be between .45v-.55v. .5v is prolly preferable. i discussed this same thing in another thread but i'll give you the illustration just in case you need it. and the a/c belt shouldn't cause that kind of problem.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/207951_10150159160882679_506927678_6397180_1527060_n.jpg

I'm a native of South Carolina. I am a dying breed.
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oh, I don't have a voltmeter but I started the car and just took a shot at adjusting it and getting lucky. That and the a/c belt was WAY over tightened. I have to go out at 8pm tonight so I'll report back with my findings.
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oh, I don't have a voltmeter but I started the car and just took a shot at adjusting it and getting lucky. That and the a/c belt was WAY over tightened. I have to go out at 8pm tonight so I'll report back with my findings.

 

You can get a multimeter for a few bucks at harbor fright or any electronics store. I have my money on TPS sensor or MAF. I had very similar problems that you had and it was a bad MAF and out of spec TPS sensor.

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Il have to see if I can get one, I'm dirt broke..

 

Weird, I had the issues on the way to the store I checked under the hood and it turns out one of my plug wires want fully clipped on. But its still stalling.

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ok so in the walmart parkinglot I swapped my fuel pump itself and the old unit after sitting for about an hour was SCALDING hot. Switched it out and it still died. car stalled a little backing out and leaving. So we adjusted the TPs AGAIN, and drove home and the car felt smooooth, sounded smooth, smooth in between shifts and coming to stops, so I believe that those two were the problem. Why would the pump overheat like that to the point where it's tough to hold? Next mission is to find out why I'm burning oil, losing coolant and it's not mixing in the radiator/reservoir or overheating.
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Nope problem is still going on.... things to note:

- I'm smelling fuel after driving.

- when i'm driving it's not always a problem, it drives like normal and only does it occassionally

- gunk around each injector even after I changed the o-rings.

- I recently removed the air intake baffler that is inside the fender. All there is, is the air filter box and an opening to the fender.

- there is only 2 screws holding the IAC on, the top two, which I figure is ok since there is nothing going to the bottom of it.

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Nope problem is still going on.... things to note:

- I'm smelling fuel after driving.

- when i'm driving it's not always a problem, it drives like normal and only does it occassionally

- gunk around each injector even after I changed the o-rings.

- I recently removed the air intake baffler that is inside the fender. All there is, is the air filter box and an opening to the fender.

- there is only 2 screws holding the IAC on, the top two, which I figure is ok since there is nothing going to the bottom of it.

 

The IACV is leaking is your problem. You need all 4 bolts and they need to be torqued down properly with a new gasket, make sure it is clean also.

 

http://i51.tinypic.com/nquqx.jpg

 

free multimeter from harbor freight if you buy something, or $5 on sale right now.

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ive sprayed the iac 3 times. As far as bolting it on there is only a place for the 3 of the 4 bolts.. where the 4th bolt would go through the iac on the bottom left there is nothing there...
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