johnegg Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 check to make sure the air filter box is secure connected, especially at the lower end closest to the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 Thanks for the tip. Will check that out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 Started changing the plugs but got pissed off and let it be cos one of the wires left it's little rubber ring stuck in there. Can't get the damn thing out and the access is very tight! Argh! gonna try again tonight or tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted September 11, 2011 Author Share Posted September 11, 2011 Well after fighting with the damn stuck rubber ring thingy, I put some glue on the boot and stuck it back in, waited a bit and pulled it out ... IT WORKED! lol Got to my 3rd plug and found a completely wrong plug in there. talk about a colder plug, this plug literally had half the thread length as what's supposed to be there! haha, it wasn't even in the chamber!!! Well, not it's all done and the engine still vibrates at idle and even when it's revved up. Checked spark and have it on all the plugs and it's not fueling either. Probably something mechanical 'cos I don't have a check engine light on either? So my question is, after I read through a few posts on engine vibration/etc., some say reset the ECM and some say that the flywheel was probably not torqued down right ... I think I may have don't the latter. I snugged them all up and them went around tightening them all, however I didn't criss-cross them when I did that, just went around in a circle and did all 4. Probably the issue? Will re-torque them tomorrow, but I'd like your opinions on this pls!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted September 11, 2011 Author Share Posted September 11, 2011 So I re-torqued the flywheel/TC bolts and it got much better, there's still a slight bit of vibration/hesitation when first getting on the gas. May have to run some fuel system cleaner through it ... or maybe re-torque them again; third times the charm! lol This was the first time I had it running for longer than a few minutes and also outside in the daylight. There was a bunch of white smoke coming out the tailpipe and it got me pretty worried that it may be headgaskets. However, after taking the maiden voyage up and down the street and around the neighborhood, it cleared out and there's only a very slight hint of it now. Possibly was coolant in the exhaust (it dumped a bunch of coolant through the exhaust valves when it blew the block) burning off ...hopefully. it's not perfect, but it'll do for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 11, 2011 I Donated Share Posted September 11, 2011 The white smoke is probably condensation in the exhaust. It takes awhile to burn off sometimes. If it never goes away, I would do a compression check and a leak down test -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 White smoke has disappeared. Engine still runs a but rough and it's most noticeable at about 1k-1.5k then gets a bit better. Runs awesome at higher revs. Swapped out the coil pack, gonna swap out the wires, and also put in a bottle of injector cleaner. Hope it helps. Also gonna recheck the tc bolts ... again lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 15, 2011 I Donated Share Posted September 15, 2011 Also gonna recheck the tc bolts ... again lol How many times have you pulled the engine or trans now? lol. I suggest putting locktite on the TC bolts. Buy the red shit at the auto parts store -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 i doubt very seriously that it is the TC bolts. did you replace the timing belt? is it right?  if it is a a couple of teeth off, it can cause the issues you mentioned. but wires first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 lol no I didn't pull the engine. Just re-torqued the tc bolts through the access hole on top. Will take the front covers off and check the timing belt next after I swap the wires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted September 27, 2011 Author Share Posted September 27, 2011 So I pulled the front end off and installed new cam seals and made sure everything was lined up perfect when I put it back together. Started her up briefly and theres still a slight vibration! kinda bummed right now :-( next is to pull the trans and check everything over but first, I will see how it goes when I get everything buttoned up and I can take her out on a test drive around the neighborhood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Do these motors have any weights on the flywheel? I seriously doubt it but... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 I suggest putting locktite on the TC bolts. Buy the red shit at the auto parts store Don't use red loctite. Just blue, and only a drop of it. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 16, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 16, 2011 why blue? whats wrong with red? -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 Red, you need to use heat to break them loose if you don't want to break a bolt accidentally. Blue is a bit more forgiving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdaddy41301 Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 HUh...Learn something new every day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 16, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 16, 2011 I've always used red and never had a problem breaking the bolts later on -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Finally got the time to go buy a compression tester. All the cylinders posted numbers in the 118-122psi range so I'm guessing a bad cylinder/valve is not an issue here. This vibration is pissing me off cos I need to get her on the road but don't want to before I know everything is good to go and safe. On another note, I wrecked my company truck on Friday evening so kinda doubled bummed right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 14, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 14, 2011 Have you done a leak down test? -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 Nope, would have to buy another tester for that. But what would I be gaining by a leak down if all the cylinders are making approx. the same overall numbers? I'd see a point if i had a wide range of numbers, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 How long did you hold the pressure for? -Subikid90Â 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 How long did you hold the pressure for? It was a compression test so the gauge wouldve held it indefinitely until I pressed the button to relieve the pressure. About 3-4 cranks and it usually built it up on the first 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 No when you do a compression test, dont relieve the pressure for like 15-20 sec, if you lose more than a few psi, then you have a compression issue. A lot of people just see the highest pressure and think it is okay. -Subikid90Â 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 15, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 15, 2011 subiekid90 is right. It needs to be able to reach the specs, and hold them in order to be considered good compression. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 Compression test is a dynamic test, therefore the gauge works like an analog tire gauge and holds the reading due to the one way check valve. I could unhook it from the tube that threads into the spark plug hole (which has no valves, just a hollow tube) and leave it on the table for an hour and it'll still hold the value! I think you guys are mixing up the leakdown gauge or are using some kind of super leak/compression tester combo gauge. Not trying to be a dick, just stating what I have and how a general compression tester works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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