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Running too lean after intake install


Lardo420

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So I made a cold air intake yesterday that used to be on a 5.0 Mustang, but adapted it for legacy use by hole sawing a hole in it to put the MAF in. Ran great for 160 miles. Now my check engine light is on, as well as the cruise light flashing and the flashing in the display as well. Went to Autozone to get it scanned and the guy said it was running too lean. Has anyone else run into this problem or a similar one? I have included a picture of the intake so maybe it needs to be adapted to fit the application better? The filter sits right where the bottom section of the stock airbox sits. Please let me know if theres anything to do besides chipping to fix this problem.

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0220111449a.jpg.48470100e3be68b170c3bc29006f28e5.jpg

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Or buy an intake that was made for the car...
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Thanks for all the input, I took it off and put the OEM one back on. Will it see the OEM intake on in about 160 miles and get rid of the check engine light on its own or will I need to get it scanned again?

Got to a local parts store and borrow their OBD2 scanner. Clear it in the parking lot and be done.

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While this might be a stupid question, is there a way to scale the maf for a intake. I only ask because I'm about to order a kstech intake in the next week or two. Debating on installing it when I get it or wait to early spring when I get a much deserved retune.

276hp/347tq On a DynoJet

Dyno Video - Had a big lean spot as you can tell in the second pull

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So I made a cold air intake yesterday that used to be on a 5.0 Mustang, but adapted it for legacy use by hole sawing a hole in it to put the MAF in. Ran great for 160 miles. Now my check engine light is on, as well as the cruise light flashing and the flashing in the display as well. Went to Autozone to get it scanned and the guy said it was running too lean. Has anyone else run into this problem or a similar one? I have included a picture of the intake so maybe it needs to be adapted to fit the application better? The filter sits right where the bottom section of the stock airbox sits. Please let me know if theres anything to do besides chipping to fix this problem.

 

 

highlighted = FAIL

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Proper MAF sensor placement is also key. You can't scale it accurately until it's getting consistent readings. Placing it right after a bend in the intake will cause even a well scaled MAF sensor to get inconsistent readings due to the air not flowing in a linear pattern. Research http://www.romraider.com or get a book on engine tuning. I can recommend a good one if you'd like.
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OP: Things got kinda rough in here, but you really did just step off the curb and into a pile of dog poop.

 

These cars are very moddable. But you have to do it right, and with proper forethought. Couple of quick pointers:

 

The stock air intake is good out to over 300awhp. (all-wheel horsepower) If you replace it you MUST get a tune no matter what people say.

 

An aftermarket downpipe can free up a lot of power with a proper tune. This is called Stage 2.

 

Do not replace the stock bypass valve (BPV) with an atmospheric blow-off valve (BOV). If you upgrade it because you're going Stage 2, get an aftermarket BPV.

 

If a set of coilovers are under $1500 new, don't get them. Stick with Bilsteins and springs.

 

And search! There's tons of good info already here.

 

Enjoy!

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Yes

 

^+1

 

The good news is that, with a tune, you're not just compensating for the new part, you're actually getting MORE performance out of the car. If you're coming from the mustang world, think of it like this: You can put better heads on, but if you leave the stock cams not only is it not going to run right, but you'll be leaving power on the table. The tune is essentially a power mod in and of itself.

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I'm not coming from a mustang, (civic Si) but thanks man, thats a very understandable way of putting it. I just dont really want to break down and spend the money on a tuner, or pay someone 200/hr to tune it. But i guess this is something that needs to be done. This is my first time modding a car, so i do not know a whole lot about this.
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What most people don't get coming from NA vehicles is that a CAI is one of the last power mods that should be added to these cars. I feel that it should only be out of necessity. Getting more intake noise is the only other benefit. A tune should be had either way. These are the only three scenarios I can think of for going with a CAI. Either because your turbo and fuel are maxing out the airflow of your unit, you are going FMIC and need the extra space, or you're ok with losing a little low-end power for top-end power which will happen with or without a tune.

 

The cheapest route for tuning these cars is through Infamous1 (a Vendor and long time member on the forum). All you need is a laptop, some opensource programs, a specific type of cable, time, money, etc. Way cheaper than a ~$500 Acessport. Whichever way you go, you won't have an easier way to tune than through him (you may have to do some slight learning and reading but its worth it).

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