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2.2 in Outback, swap?


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As i'm sure most of you know, by my 10 million other posts, i have a 1997 outback, the 2.5 in it blew a head gasket and was also run with no oil. I found a 1996 Impreza for sale for $300 with a strong running 2.2L but bad transmission. Since its cheaper to buy the Impreza and put the 2.2L in my outback than it is to rebuild the 2.5, i was wondering if the 2.2L would be sufficient for an outback? i know the 2.5 is 165hp and the 2.2L is 145, so its a loss of 20hp. The outback is automatic. The Impreza has 160k miles on it but supposedly never used any oil. Overheated only 1 time when water pump went bad a year ago but that was fixed. Had oil changed every 3000 miles. I will most likely just run the 2.2 in the outback just to get me around, not a race car or dragster or anything obviously, and slowly build the 2.5 as i get little bits of money, probably sti internals and try and do a turbo project or something. Only time will tell what decisions i will make or deals i might find down the road. But please tell me what you think. Thanks
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I swapped a 2.2 that came out of an Outback into mine. You need to keep the y-pipe and swap it too. Mine runs great and is getting around 25 MPG with very little highway miles and lots of snow and a very easy swap.
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so the car is an automatic. but i was reading about some of the 2.2 being single port and some dual port. I know my 2.5 is dual port but im not sure about the 2.2 in the impreza...will it be dual port also? If not how am i going to get it to work with the exhaust in my outback.
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okie dokie. thanks a bunch. So the 96 will be single port, but the y-pipe from the impreza will fit in my outback? Good to know the 96 is non-interference! Also what was you saying about the flex plate, will i need to use the flex plate from my ej25d or will whats on the 2.2 work? Also since i will have the ej22 on a stand at one point, should i go ahead and replace the oil separator plate, rear main seal, cam seals, front crank seals, anything like that?

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leave the rear main alone.

 

replace the oil separator. and all of the front seals.

 

reseal the oil pump.

 

subarus are like legos, they snap together. they only make one single port y-pipe and they use it on all of their cars. they only make one auto trans, they swap in different differentials and they install them in all of their cars. same with the manual trans.

 

not all parts will swap from impreza to legacy, but lots of stuff will.

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leave the rear main alone.

 

replace the oil separator. and all of the front seals.

 

reseal the oil pump.

 

subarus are like legos, they snap together. they only make one single port y-pipe and they use it on all of their cars. they only make one auto trans, they swap in different differentials and they install them in all of their cars. same with the manual trans.

 

not all parts will swap from impreza to legacy, but lots of stuff will.

 

sounds good to me. The cam seals are a quite a bit different in the SOHC 2.2 than in the 2.5. it has a wierd housing that slides on the outside shaft of the cam and has an O-ring on one side. seems like it may be easier to do than the 2.5 Did the 2.2s have a history of blowing head gaskets? or was that a 2.5 only thing. Should i do head gaskets while the motors out? Just askin

 

and thanks a bunch for all your help on all the threads ive posted

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well now im caught between a rock and a hard place. I can get a 2007 Ej25 SOHC in a straight trade for some electronics of mine. The story on the 07 is, the guy had oil changed every 3500 miles, well the shop that changed the oil didnt put enough oil back into the motor and so on the way to work one day the motor started pecking, the guy said it sounded more like a lifter, so he stopped and had the car towed to a subaru shop. The shop told him it was a knock and tricked him into buying a used motor from them. They installed the new motor, and then told him that when they added oil to the old motor, the noise went away. They tried to get him to give the motor to the shop but he kept it instead. Now this motor can be mine. Its from an 07 legacy, has around 80k miles on it. What do you think? I know the 07 is MAP and my outback depends on MAF, so couldnt i use the intake manifold from my 97 ej25 on the 07 ej25? And have the crank and cam sensors changed between the year 97 and 07? or will the 07 crank and cam sensors plug into my 97s wiring harness? If not can i use the crank and cam sensors from my 97 outback in the 07 block? Im most likely going to go through with the trade cause i could part out the motor and get my money back.
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backed out on the 07 motor. too much work to get it to fit in my car. and yea now i cant decide which to fix, the impreza or the outback. the outbacks blue book value is twice the value of the impreza though, so ill probably try and fix it then build the 2.5 for the impreza :) is the Outbacks Auto trans stronger/beefier than the imprezas auto trans? cause i know theres no way the impreza can tow what the outback is capable of towing.
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what year, trans impreza??????

 

thats the 1996 Impreza. auto trans. ej22 165k miles. trans engages in D and R, never tried 1 or 2, but vibrates weird when accelerating from a stop with wheels turned. never tried with the wheels turned straight. but it doesnt fell like its slipping at all though. but why is an outback 1 year newer worth twice that of the impreza? whats so special about the outback

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try this, under the hood on the passenger side near the fire wall behind the strut tower, ther is a small black module with FWD on the top. (about the size of a zippo lighter.) open it up and stick in any spare fuse, size does not matter.

 

then take it for a test drive. slow tight turns. see if it is better. (also check to see if the tires are all the same brand and size and inflation. this can cause binding as well.)

 

it sounds like the car has torque bind. the AWD unit in the rear extension housing of the trans is bad. could be the duty c solenoid, if you have the AT TEMP light flashing at start up. or the clutch plates are gummed up. or ...... something else.

 

but the first step if the fuse helps, is to replace the fliud in the trans. do a drain and fill , 3 times with driving in between. and then give it a while to ''clean up''.

 

if that does not help, then you will have to remove the housing and start replacing parts. dealer charges 1500$ for this repair.

 

in the mean time. if the fuse helps, you cas drive it like that for a while. or remove the rear section of the drive shaft and drive it for ever in FWD.

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try this, under the hood on the passenger side near the fire wall behind the strut tower, ther is a small black module with FWD on the top. (about the size of a zippo lighter.) open it up and stick in any spare fuse, size does not matter.

 

then take it for a test drive. slow tight turns. see if it is better. (also check to see if the tires are all the same brand and size and inflation. this can cause binding as well.)

 

it sounds like the car has torque bind. the AWD unit in the rear extension housing of the trans is bad. could be the duty c solenoid, if you have the AT TEMP light flashing at start up. or the clutch plates are gummed up. or ...... something else.

 

but the first step if the fuse helps, is to replace the fliud in the trans. do a drain and fill , 3 times with driving in between. and then give it a while to ''clean up''.

 

if that does not help, then you will have to remove the housing and start replacing parts. dealer charges 1500$ for this repair.

 

in the mean time. if the fuse helps, you cas drive it like that for a while. or remove the rear section of the drive shaft and drive it for ever in FWD.

 

yea and the owner, who was slightly knowledgeable about cars, mentioned it acted like a differential problem. I didnt move the car more than 3 or 4 feet back and forth. Plus this is probably going to just be a parts car for now..

 

and the car isnt at my house yet, i'm getting it towed here Sunday. But i will take a fuse with me and stick it in the FWD place so i can drive the car up on the trailer.

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Well i did some reading online about adding Trans-X LSD gear oil additive to the ATF in these transmissions, so i drained about half a quart or less of the ATF in the transmission and added an entire tube of that Trans-X stuff, i didn't even do the drain and fill, then drove the car around my yard for a about an hour, making sure to take tight slow circles repeatedly, left and right. The torque bind is completely gone in all forms, and there is no loss in power, no slippage, and may i add this transmission from the beginning feels very very strong.
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