williaty Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Also, starting fluid. Never used it. Just pour it through the throttle body and see what happens or what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 what i remember about the injector wiring is there is a wire color difference between front and rear. i don't know any more than that. but a wiring diagram for your year should tell you. link to FSM , i haven't used it, i got mine from another site. but this link was just posted this week here. http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=20753 starting fluid comes in a spray can like spray paint. spray short bursts it into the throttle body when cranking. if it has spark in the correct combination with compression, it will fire. if it does not fire then something else is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Wiring confirmed to be correct by comparing it to a running 2.2L just now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Given all the cranking I've been doing, I would expect to be smelling gasoline from the exhaust by now. I'm not. It makes me wonder if there's a clog in the fuel lines under the intake manifold. This would explain how I have fuel pressure at the fuel filter and how I have the injectors being commanded to fire but don't smell fuel from the tailpipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 not necessarily, remember, the fuel has to go through the cats and the rest of the exhaust before you can smell it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Given all the cranking I've been doing, I would expect to be smelling gasoline from the exhaust by now. I'm not. It makes me wonder if there's a clog in the fuel lines under the intake manifold. This would explain how I have fuel pressure at the fuel filter and how I have the injectors being commanded to fire but don't smell fuel from the tailpipe. double check the routing of the fuel lines from the filter to the metal lines on the intake. compare to running 2.2L. it's easy to get them confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Large diameter hose coming off the fuel filter goes to top port on the intake manifold. Large diameter hose that bypasses the fuel filter goes to the middle port on the intake manifold. Small hose goes to the lowest port on the intake manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicdeng Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 if the crank pulley is from a different car, will it have this problem? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 no, the part number for the crank sprocket 90 - 98 ej22, and 90 - 99 ej25 are the same. no difference. #13021AA091 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 4 stuck injectors. Swapped the injectors from the 2.5L into the 2.2L and it fired up after about 2 seconds of cranking. Has me worried now, though, because it has either a HORRIBLE case of valve tick or a barely audible case of rod knock. Grrrrr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Glad that the solution was at hand. Even though it has been nerve wracking, I'm sure. Valve tick is common. Generally quiets after running a while. To eliminate you have to adjust the valves. If you decide to do this,see attachment. O.Valve Clearance.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Is the 95 2.2L a HLA or roller-rocker? Some people on NASIOC were suggesting that the 95 2.2L is a HLA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 it's HLA, let it idle or just drive it. it will quiet down. no adjustment needed. glad you got it figured out. did you have a CEL? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 it's HLA, let it idle or just drive it. it will quiet down. no adjustment needed. glad you got it figured out. did you have a CEL? Currently has a DTC for "Injector #1 open connection". Injector #1 is plugged in and the car isn't misfiring. However, yesterday, I had the wire off of #1 with the car on during testing. I think it probably set the DTC then. The Innova scan tool was unable to clear the DTC/reset the ECU. No idea what's up with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 I just found an Endwrench article about the 2.2s that says that they switched to roller-rockers in 95. I hate when things get confusing like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 my 95 AND my 96 have HLAs. roller rocker came in when the engines went interference in 97. apparently HLAs require less maintenance but roller rockers give you more power. and everything about the engine changes in 97 were for more power. i have no idea why end wrench said what it did. maybe the asian market got the ''new '' engine a year early. and end wrench may be talking build dates. but my real world experience is HLAs 90 - 96. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 i guess 96 could have been a transition year. early builds = HLAs ; later builds = roller rockers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vicdeng Posted April 9, 2011 Author Share Posted April 9, 2011 Do you guys know why the Invova scantool would not clear the DTC. I disconnected the battery for over night and see if it reset the ECU. Hopefully it did. any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 over night should clear it unless there is still a problem. if it is still there in the morning, maybe put an ohm meter on the injectors and see if #1 is different from the others. then check the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Is it possible to have roller rockers AND HLA's? I thought someone at Delta Cams told me I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 NO one or the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 I may have misunderstood them. Just checking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmd003 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Alright guys. It seems that my 98 Outback is about to throw a rod so it's parked in front of the house until I can get a new engine. It had been knocking since I bought it a few weeks ago, but the other day I had to have it towed home because it started knocking and squeaking loudly before dying, and I couldn't get it to crank after that. I got her to start today but it sounds horrible. So my question is this: EJ22 swap or JDM EJ20 swap? Not really looking for more power, just looking to get the most reliable engine for my buck, and I'm afraid if I pick one up from a junk yard it will just go up on me again. Also, anything I would need to know about what year engines I can swap in and such would be appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Buying a used engine is the same no matter which one it is. You dont know the history so it is a luck game. Your best bet if you dont want to rebuild an engine is a JDM EJ25. They run about $1000 with 30-50k miles on them. You will need to either tap for EGR or use your current heads and intake manifold, this is the easier route. I refuse to buy a used engine without at least pulling the heads and check everything out. I am kinda anal though lol -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmd003 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 What websites for JDM engines are recommended to look at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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