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Using a lower weight of oil is going to be better protection for cold starts. Keep in mind that the further the weights spread apart (e.g., 10w30 vs. 0w40) the more additives it takes to produce that behavior, and as you go further on a change interval, the oil may lose some of its range.

 

Worry less about the brand and more about the appropriate weight / change interval. For pretty much any given brand of oil you will find someone who SWEARS it is the greatest oil ever invented because it is actually formulated from synthetic unicorn blood in a secret underground laboratory. Everyone is gently fingering Rotella's starfish right now because it's cheap and the EJ motors don't seem to drink it.

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Below is a quote from a local Subaru focused performance shop stating that the Rotella formula has changed and is no longer recommend by them at least. I believe the link asks you to login so I've pasted the quote.

 

http://www.buffaloscooby.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16583

 

I don't expect everyone to listen to us, but for those who do...we no longer recommend Rotella engine oil for high performance applications.

 

We recommend and sell the following for high performance use:

Brad Penn - Penn Grade 1 10w40

Brad Penn - Penn Grade 1 20w50

Amsoil - AMO 10w40

Amsoil - ARO 20w50

 

That's it? Yup...that's it. There are a few other oils with appropriate amounts of zinc and phosphorous for high performance, but because we haven't tested them thoroughly we aren't recommending them at this time.

 

Rotella has been reformulated for lower emissions in line with the other systems on the new clean diesels. To do so, they've changed their additive package so it's similar to other oils we don't recommend designed for gas engines, such as Mobil 1 5w30 and many other GF-4 oils.

 

These high detergent oils are designed for emissions compliance, not performance. Modified turbocharged engines require a great deal more protection than the average engine. Only certain racing oils have the high zinc content and other additives necessary for high film strength and anti wear capability in a high performance application. These additives are at odds with emissions standards. For example, Phosphorous is found in good racing oils, but is limited in street oils because of its long term negative effect on catalytic converters.

 

Also be aware that oils from the same manufacturer don't necessarily share additive packages. For example, Amsoil 10w40 XL and 10w40 Premium are not the same. We don't sell their XL oils and they're not appropriate for racing use.

 

Some of you are probably saying...but we sell Amsoil 5w30 and 10w30? That's true. They offer superior protection compared to Mobil 1 5w30 and 10w30 and they're sufficient for most bolt on setups driven on the street. They're also great for short trip and all season driving in stock engine and turbo street cars. For example, you don't want 20w50 in a basic stage 2 STI driven through winter. On the other hand I wouldn't use Amsoil 5w30 or 10w30 on a road course. I also wouldn't use them on any of our built engine packages.

 

We have seen significant evidence of piston/ring/bore wear, engine bearing wear and turbocharger bearing damage caused by the lack of protection oils like Mobil 1 provide so we take this very seriously. Some other companies like Forced Performance have clamped down on people sending in failed turbos that have clearly been damaged due to sub standard oils such as Mobil 1 5w30 being used so we're not alone.

 

As emissions compliance takes more and more precedence over the actual protection engine oils provide this is going to get even worse.

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I read that thread when it first was started... Only place I've seen talk like that about Rotella T6...

Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT

Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon

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As always Dudes, very good info .. thank you. For just an everyday "spirited" driver as myself I tend to believe frequency of change (oil/filter) is the key .. been doing it every 2K 2.5K miles for 6 years .. Amsoil 5w 30 ...
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As always Dudes, very good info .. thank you. For just an everyday "spirited" driver as myself I tend to believe frequency of change (oil/filter) is the key .. been doing it every 2K 2.5K miles for 6 years .. Amsoil 5w 30 ...

 

Probably wasting money, but I do every 2k to 2500 or so with Penzoil Platinum 5w30. New engine has about 20k on it now and considering going to 3k intervals..

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Ah yes the debate continues .. but I can guarantee one thing .. the more often you change oil/filter .. the happier your engine/turbo .. I'm no racer, just a "spirited" driver like i've mentioned .. I don't mind spending $$ on oil/filter "prematurely" .. if I have peace of mind . just my thoughts
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You know, I use 5w30 and 10w30 interchangeable on the older suby, and 5w30 with subaru filters on the shiny new one. All Mobile one. I must say, I haven't been greatly impressed with the stuff. I change the oil every 3k in my car and 4k in my wifes car. It always looks seriously beat coming out of both cars. Mine get's driven slightly harder than hers, but hers is driven like an old woman. 7k on mine and hers has 60k on it. I used Castrol GTX in my built 3000gt's and it seemed to hold up a bit better. That is completely subjective of course.
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