scoobydoobie Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 The IPR is more or less a Perrin replica for cheaper. With the RacerX FMIC available this week and last for $550 shipped that seems like a no-brainer to jump on that deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Meh, not everyone wants an FMIC. Plus, $550 shipped is more than I paid for my IPR TMIC. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Meh, not everyone wants an FMIC. Plus, $550 shipped is more than I paid for my IPR TMIC. Agreed. I wanted to stay TMIC for a few reasons and getting a great deal on a coated IPR helped make that a simple choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolksey85 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 So, what do you guys think of this top mount after install? I have most everything I need minus a few gaskets for my stg2 setup. Last big piece is a top mount. Are you happy with what you have or would you go back and spend the extra $250 or so for an AVO/other? Keep in mind there's some sales right now available so pricing is a little more competitive than the usual MSRP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 I'm quite happy. I've retuned a bit for it and am running a fair amount of boost through it. The slight fitment fix I had to do doesn't seem to have had any adverse effect as of yet. For the price (with Swain coating) I'd definitely make the same choice again. I believe I would have had the same problems with the Perrin for more money. I'm not sure on the AVO but it was too pricey to even be in contention for me. I gave some brief thought to the ebay TMIC method but after seeing the price on this it just made sense to go this route, especially with BNR now supplying us with low cost bolt on turbo choices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 Meh, not everyone wants an FMIC. Plus, $550 shipped is more than I paid for my IPR TMIC. Touche. FMICs are not for everyone. If I were to go back to a TMIC for some reason, it would be an IPR for the price alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 I wonder what the problem with fitment really is. Is it the flange angle at the turbo outlet? I wonder if I could just clamp the IC on the mill and use an end-mill to get the angle right. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock2534 Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 Not at all. Got the engine cover back on as well with no trimming. It's not attached with plastic clips, but it locks itself in around the intercooler. The hood holds it from moving at all and even when popping the hood you still need to pry the cover off. How did you get the cover back on?? I have the IC on but could not quite get the cover to fit back on. If I pushed it on top of the IC, the end closest to the front wanted to stick up. Did you use any force to do it? I was trying not to be too rough and break something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolksey85 Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 From the sounds of it, the issues with the IPR is the same as the Perrin. Which in turn, I assume, means the problems are hit and miss. Some encounter them, others don't. I think for the price, I wouldn't be able to beat it. Any opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock2534 Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Mine looks to be on with no issues, I don't remember how the stock one fit over on the right side, but now there is just a little gap of clearance between the IC and cap. Also, there looks to be some sort of riser/bolt that lifts it a little, again not sure if that was there with the stocker as well. Here are a few pics. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v95/rock2534/12022010809.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v95/rock2534/12022010810.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 How did you get the cover back on?? I have the IC on but could not quite get the cover to fit back on. If I pushed it on top of the IC, the end closest to the front wanted to stick up. Did you use any force to do it? I was trying not to be too rough and break something. I just set it back on and the hood holds it in. In my case, it tucks into the front of the intercooler and seems to lock itself on pretty well without the clips. Once the hood is down though it makes a good seal on the cover which can be seen by the clean area where the hood scoop touches the cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 that doesnt look like the stock bracket bolt to me...looks like its longer to allow for adjustments Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock2534 Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 that doesnt look like the stock bracket bolt to me...looks like its longer to allow for adjustments I was thinking that myself, but I didn't pay attention to what was on the stock one. I guess they did that to make it work, sits very level...probably not a bad idea for people getting this IC to pick one up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 What kind of spacer is that underneath? I will probably use a longer bolt and put a nut and pair of washers beneath it. That should do the trick, I would think. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock2534 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 It is just a quarter inch rubber spacer. There are two of them, one under the washer on top, and one beneath the IC and mount bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock2534 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 It is just a quarter inch rubber spacer. There are two of them, one under the washer on top, and one beneath the IC and mount bracket. It sits great, but there is no way the engine cover is going back on without trimming it. I saw someone else had theirs on, but that thing is not going on for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark34 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 I installed this a couple weeks ago. I had the hardest time with it at first. Finally got smart and put a film of oil around the throttle body connector and it finally slid fully into the throttle body hose. So far no rubbing issues on the clutch cylinder that I can hear and it looks like decent clearance. I used the Mr. Gasket idea over the plexi glass part provided and also did the mod to the support bracket. The support bracket bolted to both intake manifold attach points. I also opted for an AVO throttle body tube. This intercooler also fits with a Cusco strut tower bar and Zero/Sports intercooler splitter. I'm not running the engine cover. One note, the BOV flange threads got stripped after one time. I had to drill and helicoil repair those holes. But I had the car pressure tested and no leaks, so I'm happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 It is just a quarter inch rubber spacer. There are two of them, one under the washer on top, and one beneath the IC and mount bracket. that seems like an easier fix than the threaded bolt/riser trick. im attempting this ASAP.. did u get the spacer at lowes etc? and how long a bolt/ stud do i need (inches) i can always just make a stud by cutting a bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark34 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 that seems like an easier fix than the threaded bolt/riser trick. im attempting this ASAP.. did u get the spacer at lowes etc? and how long a bolt/ stud do i need (inches) i can always just make a stud by cutting a bolt. I couldn't find the right thread pitch at Lowes to use a longer bolt and spacer, so I got something close to the same size diameter and then tapped the hole. I think it was a M8 1.25 by 1.5" that I replaced with a M8 1.0 by 2". I went and looked at lunchtime and it looked like I have about 1/8" clearance and with no spacer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 good i think that will fix the clunk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark34 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Were you able to get it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 yes i even get a CH of clearance but a clunk when i leave in first...but only get the clunk one time i been researching the rod and nut adjuster but cant seem to find the right threaded rod..lowes/hdepot didnt have so i think i need a longer nut for the same style spacer. ur method is new and i think im gonna give it a shot %5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b468/Fearless_French/CIMG0061.jpg[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock2534 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 that seems like an easier fix than the threaded bolt/riser trick. im attempting this ASAP.. did u get the spacer at lowes etc? and how long a bolt/ stud do i need (inches) i can always just make a stud by cutting a bolt. Believe it or not, I got it from the dealer, I was there for something else and had them take a quick look. I can measure the bolt if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 PLEASE! YOU DA MAN! so i could theoretically go to subaru and request a bolt? perfect lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock2534 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 THe bolt is 2 in tops, the rubber washers are probably 1/4 in. It basically gives one RCH of clearance over that resevoir cap. NO clunking issues at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.