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Spark Plug Install Instructions


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^ And I, in turn, have no airbox! :D

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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  • 1 month later...
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Ok, this is a really dumb question, are the plugs angled upwards? I know the older Subarus had them exactly horizontal, but in '05 they angled them up? Haven't even attempted to do them yet, just wondering... :)
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  • 2 weeks later...

wow. that was a pain in the ass...took a good hour and and half to 2 hours and it honestly didnt look like it was gonna be that tough. i actually had a harder time with the passenger side trying to contend with the power steering lines from the reservoir.

 

i'm gonna try and tackle installing an Uppipe tomorrow. I saw the bolts and that lower shield and I'm already scared.

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^ It's just like the spark plugs... Its real fun. How did it go for you?
**There are two types of people in the world, those who build horsepower and those who buy it. Which one are you?
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  • 2 weeks later...
I changes my plugs for the first time this weekend, and am sure glad I had this resource to look at prior to starting. Thanks to BoxerGT for taking the time to impart his experience. Anyway, I haven't read through all the pages in this thread, so please excuse me if this subject has already been raised. There is one point that is not raised in the walkthrough that is CRITICAL for a much quicker completion of the task. Prior to loosening the bolts that hold the coil packs, remove the wiring harness to each coil pack. Then when the bolt is removed, turn the coil pack 180 degrees and it can then be reletively easily removed upwards, even on both rear cylinders. It took me awhile to figure this out, but sure made the process easier once I did.
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Put the car up on drive-on blocks, did the drivers side just as fat as the pass side, did not remove battery, did it all from underneith. Highly recommend doing drivers side from under side , pass from above. Took 1 hr.

 

Plugs were in bad (worn but no signs of engine isues) shape, 40k on them.

 

Rear set of coils are starting to rust, both of them. Coils are actually spreading apart due to the corrosion. Anyone else having that issue yet? 123k on the car, but bottom engine cover, "skidplate", has had a missing cover since 40k...Look just like this one:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bad-coil-pack-looks-like-67194.html

 

I just did my plugs and putting the car up on ramps helped strictly because of the increase in height. I don't see how being under the car helped you on the drivers side. The support directly underneath those plugs looks like it would have blocked most of the access. Kudos if it worked for you though.

 

A big plus to the guy that said to remove the wire clips from the coil packs and rotate them 180 degrees to get the rears out. Helped me a lot!

 

P.S. It took me 2.5 hours and I had never done it before.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good write up - I needed it today!

I had a heck of a time getting the driver rear coil pack back on the plug - I kept missing it somehow!?!? I probably spent 30-45 minutes just trying to get that sucker back on.

Also, I did remove the rubber from the plug socket for the passenger rear plug - there is no way I could have gotten my socket back out if I didn't!? I barely got it out of the driver rear after putting that plug back in.

The engine is running smoother now - I had 80k on the stock plugs - bad owner!

:)

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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  • 1 month later...

Would I be able to tackle this with a shorty swiveling 1/2 ratchet and a 3" extension and some shorty wrenches? Or do I need some smaller extensions and some 3/4 drive sockets? Pretty much all of my sockets are 1/2.

 

Don't know about for the OBXT, since our 2.5i Outback was different than my LegacyGT (SOHC vs DOHC?). It may be that the additional 3" of chassis heighth in the OB gives you more room around the frame, if the engine is mounted a little higher (?). But with the Legacy you definitely need the shorter extensions and a 1/4 drive ratchet. I scraped by with 2 1" extensions (total length about 2.5"), but a 2" extension would be ideal, if you can find one. The plug threads are so long that near the end you need to shorten up the extension to get the ratchet out (for the rear plugs). No way you can do this with 1/2 drive ratchet.

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Good to know. I don't have any experience with the LGT's but from what I can gather so far, the OBXT is the same as the LGT wagon under the hood. I doubt there will be any more room in there. I think I have all I need now. I got some smaller sockets and extensions.
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I just did my plugs and putting the car up on ramps helped strictly because of the increase in height. I don't see how being under the car helped you on the drivers side. The support directly underneath those plugs looks like it would have blocked most of the access. Kudos if it worked for you though.

 

A big plus to the guy that said to remove the wire clips from the coil packs and rotate them 180 degrees to get the rears out. Helped me a lot!

 

P.S. It took me 2.5 hours and I had never done it before.

 

Possible lgt vs obxt difference. Working from underneith means i can see where my figers/plugs/coils are. My big hands fit better, no issues with any blocked access. No guessing about how to turn the coils back into the hole...no bloody knuckles.

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I'm glad I only have to do this every 60k miles or so. This was beyond a PITA. I'd rather pull the trans off my former mini. With a design like this, they should have stuck with regular plug wires and forgot about the individual coils.
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  • 3 weeks later...

Doing the plugs right now. Got the drivers side out. It was a bit of a pain, but with the tips I read it wasn't too difficult.

 

One question before I move on, I bought the NGK iridium IX plugs,

 

my $1 gauge says there .40 and my old plugs say .30 Do I have to tap the new ones.

 

If i don't have too, then I wont do it

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nvm, I put them in anyways. So far the car running fine. Not much of a difference though. Maybe the plugs I pulled were fairly young, but they were oem. The only difference I can tell is that there is less hesitation from the 2-3k rpm range than before. I can't tell if its turbo lag or from the spark plugs.

 

ALSO, I thought the rear passenger was the hardest plug to change. That damn 12mm bolt had no room to put a socket on and loosen (and tighten) with that wire bracket attached to it.

 

All in All, it was a 3hr job.

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Holy crap... swapped my turbo today, also took the uppipe off, and the ported the manifolds... was going to tackle the plugs too, started on them but got terribly frustrated... I feel like paying someone to do them at this point...
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