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its not a subaru but i need your help anyways


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i picked up a 90 Nissan 300zx last monday, and lately its gettin stuck in second or 3rd gear (not sure) once i've been driving for awhile, wont down shift back into first, i already changed the tranny filter and it didnt happen again for atleast 150 miles, any idea what may cause this to happen?

 

i tried asking the guys on the Nissan forums but they cant seem to figure it out, so im gonna try asking you guys. you guys always been helpful in the past so maybe someone can help me out here.

 

http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac236/Brian_Kearney/300zx001.jpg

http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac236/Brian_Kearney/300zx003.jpg

http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac236/Brian_Kearney/300zx004.jpg

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thanks bro and yeah theres no room but im about to take off the clutch fan and put electric ones in

 

yep its auto, i traded my lancer for this believe it or not, pretty sure from the way it takes off its in second but i can still get the car up to 80 but i cant tell if its shifting or not but the rpm goes down as soon as i take my foot off the gas, its a weird problem

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RPM's in my subie goes down when I let off the pedal too. Maybe it needs new trans fluid? I really can't think of why it wouldn't shift right unless something was sticking.

 

But as far as I know in Automatics when you let off the gas pedal the RPM's drop.

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is there anyway to test this problem?

 

 

hey the lancer didnt come out so bad, i lowered it, had exhaust done, strut bars all around, it took a jetta once lol but i love this car soo much more, only downside its auto but im gonna save up and drop in a twin turbo motor with a 5speed

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you could throw some trans-x into it; as far as testing it...that's a good question. I mean, it definitely sounds like you've got an internal transmission issue. Same kind of thing like us 4eat guys have with the quirky shifts and shit. the trans-x is a simple cheap way to start eliminating things it could be; that's where I'd start at least.
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I have a friend with the same exact car luckily his is a stick. He went down the whole road of swapping in a twin turbo a lot more work than he was expecting. I grew up with him building crazy honda swaps (LS V-techs, B16head on B20 blocks, now I see him dropping k series in old hatches like its nothing), but something seriously deterred him from dropping that TT motor in which in my mind was something he had more than enough knowledge and funds for. I hope you can do so though as I think his car is beautiful in all ways except for its lack of power, I just don't know how attainable the swap is without a full shop at your disposal.

 

As for your problem, it definitely sounds like something is sticking when the tranny is heated up. I don't have a immense amount of knowledge dealing with auto's but I get the feeling that whatever is sticking isn't an easy fix (such as fluid flush)

 

I will say sitting in those 300zx's makes your feel like your in the cockpit of a jet fighter or something. Pretty cool car man I hope everything works out for you!

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I have a friend with the same exact car luckily his is a stick. He went down the whole road of swapping in a twin turbo a lot more work than he was expecting. I grew up with him building crazy honda swaps (LS V-techs, B16head on B20 blocks, now I see him dropping k series in old hatches like its nothing), but something seriously deterred him from dropping that TT motor in which in my mind was something he had more than enough knowledge and funds for. I hope you can do so though as I think his car is beautiful in all ways except for its lack of power, I just don't know how attainable the swap is without a full shop at your disposal.

 

As for your problem, it definitely sounds like something is sticking when the tranny is heated up. I don't have a immense amount of knowledge dealing with auto's but I get the feeling that whatever is sticking isn't an easy fix (such as fluid flush)

 

I will say sitting in those 300zx's makes your feel like your in the cockpit of a jet fighter or something. Pretty cool car man I hope everything works out for you!

 

i plan on saving up for a tt swap but right now i just wanna get this damn tranny working right, i can get about 30 miles outta it b4 it goes into limpin mode as my shop teacher told me, we dont have all the fancy gear at my school so its slightly harder to figure out

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so turns out the whole transmission needs a complete rebuild, finally got pissed and brought it to a shop, 2000 for a rebuild, but i lucked out and found someone selling a 91 300zx with a bad motor cuz he gave up on swapping out a 350z motor in it, so im puttin my motor in since its a 5speed car
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Probably not. VG30DETT = 280-300 hp. So roughly equivalent.

 

 

Just remember guys, we don't drive dyno's.

 

 

We drive cars. Big difference. Dyno's measure power and torque, not real-world performance.

 

The VG30DETT will probably have more off-the line torque (before the boost kicks in), less parasitic loss, less rotating mass, and taller gearing in a lighter car. An EJ257 Subaru will have more traction, better turn-in, broader torque band, and a higher RPM band to play with.

 

 

Its less about total output and more about the torque band and how flat it is, the gearing, and the power/weight ratio. This is extremely important with my hobby grade R/C race cars. I was able to post similar off-road lap times in a Losi XXX-T MF1 19T electric truck as a Losi XXX-NT AD1 0.12 cu/in gas truck because I had the torque advantage and better gearing, even with a heavier car.

 

 

Another good example is my VG33E 12V SOHC V6 Pathfinder and my Legacy. The Pathfinder might take an eternity to hit 60 with its heavy sheet metal, low redline, and lazy transmission whereas the Legacy is a fair bit quicker, but from 60-90 the Pathfinder has the gearing and enough low-to-mid range torque (Peak torque @ 2,800) to pull right past the Legacy, leaving nothing but tail-lights. Neither car is "fast", its just for comparison sake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just my $.02.... Carry on. :)

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The VG30DETT will probably have more off-the line torque (before the boost kicks in), less parasitic loss, less rotating mass, and taller gearing in a lighter car. An EJ257 Subaru will have more traction, better turn-in, broader torque band, and a higher RPM band to play with.

 

 

Its less about total output and more about the torque band and how flat it is, the gearing, and the power/weight ratio.

 

Some (not all) of this is irrelevant, because the debate was which one would be faster in a Z32 300ZX. I assume the diff in the Subaru transmission would need to be welded, of course. The only advantage you listed for the VG30DETT that would apply in this case is off-the-line torque (taller gearing is a disadvantage in terms of acceleration performance, not an advantage).

 

Also, the GD STI and the Z32 2-seater are basically identical in weight at a bit less than 3300 lbs (the GR is about 80 lbs more, and the Z32 is over 3500 lbs). Makes you wonder where all the weight on the Z32 came from...

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(taller gearing is a disadvantage in terms of acceleration performance, not an advantage).

 

Not if you have enough torque in a light enough car. Vipers, Mustangs, and Vettes have tall gearing. In fact, those cars will just about hit 60 in first gear. With a low redline and enough low end torque with a flat torque curve tall gearing can be a strategic advantage. When I was on a big block supermodified racing team, the cars only had 2 gears. Go and neutral, with no clutch. We would change gears out of the quick-change rear end for just about every track, in an effort to keep the 830HP fuel injected Chevy 454 (Bored to 468) at its peak torque around 6-7K RPM. If we got our gearing wrong, we got lapped within the first 5 laps. If we got it right, we could hang with the pack.

 

Civics and Corollas have very short gearing, and they aren't fast.

 

Gearing is more about finding a sweet spot that keeps the engine close to its torque band, and less about "OMFG LOWER IS ALWAYS BETTER!!!!!111"

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