Brian3676 Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 So has anyone tried using the entire STI fuel harness 81803FG010 rather than just robbing the pins from it? Seems if the fuel pump plug is the same and the fuel pump controller is the same it would work with just some small splicing maybe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 So has anyone tried using the entire STI fuel harness 81803FG010 rather than just robbing the pins from it? Seems if the fuel pump plug is the same and the fuel pump controller is the same it would work with just some small splicing maybe Some of the plugs that come off of it are different, and its too short. As I remember its not even close to being the same. The STI FPCM has a short pigtail harness, LGT doesn't etc etc etc If you purchase it you will see what I am saying but its just been too long ago to remember all the details I bought it and robbed pins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Keys for scale... http://i.imgur.com/VNmekzTl.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 (edited) Yeah I looked around and found that. Ended up de pinning the harness and soldering 12g wire onto the pins so now I am 10 gauge from battery to relay, 12 gauge from relay to pump, and 12 gauge from pump controller negative to pump, and 12 gauge from pump controller ground to chassis Edited April 19, 2014 by Brian3676 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 (edited) 400 l/h (Available up to 720 l/h) Variable speed controlled by factory ECU Retains factory saddle tank siphon and jet pump Larger surge capacity than stock unit Fuel level and temperature sending units function like stock Sending unit is "drop-in" install http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/5250Performance/2014-12-28182322_zpsd53e2814.jpg Edited December 30, 2014 by mwiener2 My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bettner12 Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I know I'll be be switching over to Injector Dynamics intank fuel pump, new ID1700 Injectors and Holley HydraMat once all those are released in the next year. https://www.holley.com/news/articles/holley_debuts_new_hydramat_fuel_reservoir/ [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfE1v65fNZI]The Amazing Holley HydraMat - YouTube[/ame] http://bangshift.com/general-news/new-products/must-see-holley-just-changed-fuel-system-game-big-way/ And the ID pump: 620LPH at 7Bar( 100psi) Constant flow from 10-14volts Slightly larger than a dw300 or walbro 405 Uses a controller designed with Bosch Motorsports. I believe it's actually 3 phase, and the amp draw on it is HUGE. new ID1700 Ethanol compatible injector Hopefully this video works for most of you, there isn't too much data or pictures of it, but i dug up what i could. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=398486990302789 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 wow .. love the fuel mat ! need that for my 76 k10 pickup that i converted to efi Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elgin.owens Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 (edited) Anyone ever considered using a Solid State Relay (SSR) for controlling the fuel pump via the PWM signal from the ECU? I'm almost certain that is all the FPCM really is inside. It appears as though the Subaru FPCM just has two small wires for +5vdc/- from the ECU, then two sets of large wires for the Source +/- and Pump +/-. I'm thinking of trying out one of these 20A 5vdc Omron SSR's. First I'll need to confirm if the signal from the ECU is +5vdc PWM. I think this one from Digikey would be the best candidate, Omron Automation and Safety G3NA-420B-DC5-24 Edited June 12, 2015 by elgin.owens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Yea thats all it is . You can also just ground the negative of the pump and the pump Will just run at full speed all the time. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elgin.owens Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 (edited) I'm looking to maintain the fuel pump duty cycle control via the ECU. After speaking with the tech from Digikey I've decided to use this one from Crouzet... Crouzet C/O BEI Systems and Sensor Company 84137870 (SSR GN IP20 DC 30A/50VDC) Voltage - Input (Siganl) 3 ~ 32VDC Voltage - Load (Output) 1 ~ 50VDC @ 30A Output Type DC Circuit SPST-NO (1 Form A) Found a brand new one of these on Ebay for $44.00, now I just need to find the heat sink for it. Hopefully, this way I'll be able to control the duty cycle of up to 30A worth of fuel pump(s), using the PWM signal from the ECU! Edited June 12, 2015 by elgin.owens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 and i think the ecm is a low side driver not a high side ,, not sure tho. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elgin.owens Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 Yeah I figured out my idea to just use an SSR isn't likely to work. Primarily because the data sheet for the SSR says the PWM signals must be minimum of 8vdc. Then I read on nasioc from a guy who claims to have actually used an oscilloscope to measure the ecu signal, "The stock FPC receives a PWM signal from the ECU (to determine if the speed should be 100%, 66% or 33%) and then produces a high current 12V (or whatever battery voltage is) PWM signal to power the pump. The signal from the ECU is actually 3.8V peak with an approximate frequency of 80Hz." Here's the link to the nasioc.com thread incase anyone cares to read. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2203955 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 So just put a driver to raise the voltage to 12 v for the solidstate relay . Your talking a 40 cent part just do it. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Has anyone with the wiring upgrade verified that the relay is switching open/off when the key is turned off? I have found that my relay is staying latched - details here. Quick summary of things I have verified: - Pin 30 gets 12V+ direct from fused battery connection - Pin 87 feeds new 12ga wire run to FP+ at pump - Factory green/yellow FP+ wire terminal removed at FPCM - Pin 85 to chassis ground - Pin 86 tapped off red/black B+ wire at FPCM - New 12ga wire in parallel with green/red FP- wire from FP to FPCM - New 12ga wire from black "E" wire at FPCM to chassis ground - With LGT FPCM the pump operates but relay stays switched with key-off, yielding .1A draw which kills my battery over time. - With two different STI FPCMs the pump will not operate and the relay closes with key in IGN, but opens with key off. - After cycling the key I can make the relay switch off by removing the new fuse that feeds power to pin 30. - After cycling the key, removing the M/B #11 fuse that feeds the B+ wire does not switch off the relay. - 12V+ is going from the FP+ through the pump and back to the FPCM via the FP- where it travels through the internal circuitry and keeps the B+ hot, in turn keeping the relay switched. At this point I am seriously considering removing the relay and direct battery feed, or cutting the B+ wire and using it to switch the relay and send battery power direct to the FPCM B+ terminal (and reinstalling the FP+ terminal to the FPCM). However I have found that the voltage drop from the battery to the B+ terminal at the FPCM is ~.05V, so I may just go the simple route and remove the relay altogether. 1 The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Resolved the battery drain and picked up .6V at the FP+ terminal of the FPCM. Now seems to be within .1V of battery voltage, at warm idle anyways. More info and a schematic here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fpcm-wiring-upgrade-relay-staying-switched-w-key-off-242295.html?p=5175418 The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elgin.owens Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Just thought I'd post an update about my idea for a DIY fuel pump control module. I finally received a response to my thread on the Electrical Engineering Community (EEweb.com)... "Hi, Elgin using a mosfet will solve your problem, mosfet IRF540 gate threshold v is min 2v and max 4v and has a max load current of 33 amps provide a good heat zing for the mosfet. good luck – Sambath kumar" Now I just need to look into how to actually use that mosfet IRF540 in place of my FPCM. Time to read start reading data sheets and asking my questions on EEweb! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeleodee Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 I've skimmed through this thread and find it fascinating. Currently running a AVO 245lph fuel pump on E85. 50# turbo at 24psi is leaning me out with 1100cc injectors. My IDC gets up to 111%. My upgrade I have purchased is move to a Walbro 450 along with a Fuelpro pump controller. Check it out HERE Anybody here run one of those? First I'm going to install the pump controller and see if just that makes a difference. Next, I'll drop the pump in. I will report back my findings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) ^^^ I tried it & did work. Send it back & they checked it out, it fine. Reinstalled it again & still didn't work. Thru it in a box of used parts & been running my DeatschWerks Fuel Pump - DW65c at 100% duty cycle for over a year/40K miles, with no issues. Maybe you have better luck. Edited January 1, 2016 by HAMMER DOWN Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeleodee Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) ^^^ I tried it & did work. Send it back & they checked it out, it fine. Reinstalled it again & still didn't work. Thru it in a box of used parts & been running my DeatschWerks Fuel Pump - DW65c at 100% duty cycle for over a year/40K miles, with no issues. Maybe you have better luck. Thanks for responding. What exactly didn't work? Supposedly, it regulates pump duty based on necessity. And would you recommend I just drop the 450 in as is and run that? Edited January 1, 2016 by joeleodee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) Short answer, after installing it, the car idle fine, ran ok up to around 3k, if you pressed the throttle slowly, but the rpm's fell on it face around 4k. If you go WOT, it will lean out & almost stall out. Little more detail, I get 14.2v-14.5v output from the alternator. 13.8v-14v at the FP. Put the FPC in between the Alt & FP. Last 2 Email with then explains it all; The returned FuelPro was received this morning and tested this afternoon. The unit is functioning fine and no issue was found with it. I asked him to get a video off of the scope for you. The video is in two parts, first is the pwm input and second the PWM output on a fuel pump with max. 14 Amps draw. Here is the link to the video on dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4vinudnlitfsurb/20150511_161158.mp4?dl=0 Please let me know if you have further questions. Best regards, DCCDPRO INC. Reply; That's not good. Just means I wasted more of my money, time & your time. All I know that it didn't work in my car. With over 14v supply & a 5v ECU signal. Pump voltage at start up is almost 11v. Just to shortly drop to 2.6 & max out at only 2.85v. Dumb question, did you checkout voltage to the pump? Whatever, if you say it's good. Return it & I will reinstall it again. And if it don't work, I guess I just have a $200 paper weight. Good day, End FYI, they was very helpful to answer all questions & exchanged ideas to work out my issues with their FPC. But the end of the day it didn't work. On the bright side, I been running their ProDCCD controller for 8.5yrs. & over 200k miles with no issue. It's an awesome controller. Edited January 1, 2016 by HAMMER DOWN Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pazuzu Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Short answer, after installing it, the car idle fine, ran ok up to around 3k, if you pressed the throttle slowly, but the rpm's fell on it face around 4k. If you go WOT, it will lean out & almost stall out. Little more detail, I get 14.2v-14.5v output from the alternator. 13.8v-14v at the FP. Put the FPC in between the Alt & FP. Last 2 Email with then explains it all; The returned FuelPro was received this morning and tested this afternoon. The unit is functioning fine and no issue was found with it. I asked him to get a video off of the scope for you. The video is in two parts, first is the pwm input and second the PWM output on a fuel pump with max. 14 Amps draw. Here is the link to the video on dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4vinudnlitfsurb/20150511_161158.mp4?dl=0 Please let me know if you have further questions. Best regards, DCCDPRO INC. Reply; That's not good. Just means I wasted more of my money, time & your time. All I know that it didn't work in my car. With over 14v supply & a 5v ECU signal. Pump voltage at start up is almost 11v. Just to shortly drop to 2.6 & max out at only 2.85v. Dumb question, did you checkout voltage to the pump? Whatever, if you say it's good. Return it & I will reinstall it again. And if it don't work, I guess I just have a $200 paper weight. Good day, End FYI, they was very helpful to answer all questions & exchanged ideas to work out my issues with their FPC. But the end of the day it didn't work. On the bright side, I been running their ProDCCD controller for 8.5yrs. & over 200k miles with no issue. It's an awesome controller.So did you do this mod or just bypass the fpcm completely? I destroyed one of the pins for the fpcm harness and I'm considering just wiring around it. I guess a few sti guys have done that. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Have you guys had good results with telling the ECU to always use 100% duty cycle? Or is the problem just that the stock pump controller doesn't provide enough power at 100%? There are definitions for the thresholds that cause the stock ROMs to switch from 33% to 66% and 100%, would it help to change those? They're based on injector duty cycle and I gather that large injectors can necessitate lowering the thresholds due to the smaller duty cycle. I posted the definition for A2WC522N for 05 LGTs at RomRaider, and I could be persuaded to find it for later models too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 So did you do this mod or just bypass the fpcm completely? I destroyed one of the pins for the fpcm harness and I'm considering just wiring around it. I guess a few sti guys have done that. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Have you guys had good results with telling the ECU to always use 100% duty cycle? Or is the problem just that the stock pump controller doesn't provide enough power at 100%? No, I bypassed it. Been running at 100% duty cycle for almost 2yrs.(about 70k) with no issues. IIRC, LGT as smaller gauge fuel pump & FPCM wires then the wrx & Sti's. Do to voltage drop off, FP never runs at 100% flow rate. I ran a 10 gauge wire power & ground wires for the FP. And use a relay & the FPCM wires to turn on the FP when the key is turn to "RUN". Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bettner12 Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 I will be running the iWire dual pump hardwire kit, it uses the factory FPCM to trigger the first pump on at 100%, then uses an adjustable pressure switch to trigger the second pump when the demand is needed. This still keeps the safety of the ECU controlling the fuel pump relay and completely eliminates any of the issues with voltage drop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 No, I bypassed it. Been running at 100% duty cycle for almost 2yrs.(about 70k) with no issues. IIRC, LGT as smaller gauge fuel pump & FPCM wires then the wrx & Sti's. Do to voltage drop off, FP never runs at 100% flow rate. I ran a 10 gauge wire power & ground wires for the FP. And use a relay & the FPCM wires to turn on the FP when the key is turn to "RUN". That sucks, so running fuel pump at 66-100% all the time might overheat the wires then. Do you know if the wires are thinner from the dash to FPCM too? 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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