m sprank Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 Sorry. Been a while since I checked this thread. If anyone has questions, I am here and can answer them. I greatly appreciate fahr_sides work on updating this thread and the BNR turbo thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT05Legacy Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Can't remember how the lower turbo heat shield goes on. Anyone have a pic of it installed? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 What lower turbo heat shield? You using a stock up pipe and down pipe and trying to keep all the OEM shields? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT05Legacy Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 yep. switched to STI uppipe, but that doesn't come into play with the install of the lower heat shield IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 Forget how it connects to DP. Been a long time since I took one of the DP. But it connects the the up pipe via two bolts/nuts that attach to a flat bar on the up pipe. Makes a "T" on the up pipe. Holes on heat shield are slotted so you can slip them over bolts. 10mm bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT05Legacy Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 got it on today. not sure why i was having so much difficulty before. just a matter of jiggling the shield enough to fit around the downpipe, coolant hoses, and in between the turbo and transmission. definitely would have been easier to install this thing right before the turbo goes in i think. may want to mention that in your writeup. anyway, thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 Most dont use OEM down pipes. I did not in the installs used for the write up. If using an OEM with all the heatshields, the turbo still goes in first. Cant have a heatshield attached to the DP sitting in the car while trying to get turbo in. DP has to be out. The trick is paying attention when you take it apart. OEM heatshields have a ton of 10mm bolts holding them together. All can be accessed with everything in the car, but it is tight and you might give some skin. I leave all heatshields except turbo (top) on the DP. Then bolt them back together as the DP goes in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT05Legacy Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 didn't take off the heat shields from the down pipe. just the two turbo heat shields. lower one attaches to uppipe, downpipe, and turbo upper heat shield. definitely needs to go in before downpipe and turbo because there's a tab on the lower heat shield on transmission side that sits atop a nutplate on the downpipe...won't go in with turbo and downpipe installed. so downpipe has to come back out to get it in there. stinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 That is what I mean. You took it off the DP. I do not take the lower heat shield off the DP. I only release it from the up pipe and the turbo heat shield. It stays attached to the DP during the entire operation. Then it gets attached to the up pipe when the DP gets installed. Turbo heat shield is last thing to go on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT05Legacy Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 right, now i gotchya. makes sense. wish i did that initially. oh well live and learn. actually, hope i never have to do it again...probably would mean another blown turbo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 I try to look at the car and imagine how it was assembled at the factory, then try and replicate that process as much as possible. Always makes life easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Just bumping this so i can find it easier when I tackle the 39 install, thanks as usual Mike your always a huge help! [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 Just bumping this so i can find it easier when I tackle the 39 install, thanks as usual Mike your always a huge help! I didn't take the time to look back through this thread but I think it's here or over in the Bolt-up turbo upgrade thread where Bryan took Mike's walkthrough and converted it to a Word document. I'm pretty sure I have it saved in my documents so if you can't find send me a PM with your email and if my recollection is correct I can forward it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocHolladay23 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 PM sent Subadozer, thanks! [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] You want stickers? Hit me up here!!! You want a shirt? Hit me up here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sumfoo1 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 anyone have any tips with a friggin gimmick turbo inlet ??? WILL NOT BUY AGAIN (couldn't afford anything else though since it wasn't really by choice that i'm replacing it... the turbo sucked in a piece of plastic from it. Â Â I swear i can either get the inlet on or get the oil drain lined up, if i replaced the oil line with one ~2" longer would the S it makes restrict oil flow too mucht? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 That *&^$%@ inlet took longer to install than the turbo, ELH, and injectors combined. I loosened up the bolts for the uppipe and the turbo bracket, then I squeezed it onto the turbo and tightened the hose clamp at the same time. Never again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper8406 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Did you have to take off the intake manifold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Gimmick is pretty bad. It does not have the slight bend at the end required to align to the turbo properly. Same as eBay stuff I have seen. I guess with a name like "Gimmick"... Sorry for your troubles. There is no "correct" way with that inlet. You just have to fight it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sumfoo1 Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 ok... my GMS inlet trick..  SHOVE inlet through with turbo off, adjust turbo and TIP to get them aligned...  clamp them down .... while turbo is still off... wrestle with bypass valve connection Wrestle turbo onto up pipe... bolt down then proceed with misc lines...  it was a bitch but i felt it was nearly impossible any other way...  it seems like it was made for a jdm car with no tgvs or something. not gonna lie after wrestling with the inlet pipe i was about to swear off gimmick but their copper gaskets work damned well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 I have the IP&P oil line filter through the acvs. since the oem oil line is going to be blocked, doesn't that mean the banjo bolt with filter isn't going to matter if I leave it there ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sumfoo1 Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 it still had me pull it out in my instructions, that line feeds other things too so if it is blocked... it'd blocking flow to something else too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 You can leave the OEM filter or remove it. Up to you. It wont help the turbo, but it cold possibly sightly help the ACVS. But, it could plug up too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 I took the filter out, it was pretty clean anyhow. Â I accidentally shearing off a bolt trying to loosen it. It one of the bolts that hold upipe mount. You can see it here, the bolt on the right. The body is still theaded in, but th head broke off. MMmmm, what to do ? At least I can still get to it with the turbo on. http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/SAM_1560.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 Try an out. Reverse drill bit first. At least you still have the rear bracket holding the up pipe in place. So, it is not the end of the world. More than a few WRX's run without at least 1 of those brackets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 Thanks msprank for the great walkthrough & TurboBrett for the word doc! Very helpful & much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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