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Cyl 2 misfire at idle


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  • 1 month later...

UPDATE: After my CEL came on (P0304) I replaced the #4 fuel injector. That made the car run better for ~1 week and then the problem returned. I then had the #4 coil replaced and that fixed the problem.

 

It's no fun driving the car if you can't give it full throttle once in a while!

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  • 1 year later...
Update- I just swapped coilpacks 4 and 2....misfire is still on cyl 2, so i'm assuming it's an injector problem. I'm going to read up on swapping injectors to see if I want to do it right now.

 

Edit- Gonna go swap injectors right now. It looks pretty easy based on my Haynes manual.

 

it's easy, should take you 10 min.

 

 

have any quick guide on how to swap injectors??

 

pages info from your Haynes manual??

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  • 1 year later...

I give up!

 

Yesterday the Subaru starts idling like crap and throws a code.

Runs OK above 2,000 rpm, but doesn't pull as strongly as before.

 

I pull a P0302 code on my 190,00 mile 2005 Legacy GT wagon.

Cylinder #2 misfire.

 

OK....I think probably the plugs, they're coming up on replacement soon anyway.

 

- I put in a new set of NGK SILFR6A plugs.

- The old plugs all looked good for their age.

 

Still hard to start and idling like crap and throws a P0302 code

Cylinder #2 misfire.

 

OK....probably a coil pack.

 

- I swap #1 and #2 coil packs. (easiest to get to.)

 

Still hard to start, idles like crap and throws a P0302 code!

Cylinder #2 misfire.

 

OK...probably an injector.

 

- I swap #2 and #4 injectors (again easiest to get to)

- Both injectors look great and are clean.

 

Still hard to start, idles like crap and throws a P0302 code!

Cylinder #2 misfire.

 

WTF?

 

Anyone have any ideas?

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You need to perform a compression test.

 

Yep. looks like you've checked the 'basics'. If the misfire stays in #2, you *may* have ringland issues or valve clearance in need of adjustment. I did the same as you but for #4. Turned out it was valve clearance issue for me.

 

I would avoid driving the car at this point until you do a compression/ leak down test.

 

This thread has other things you could troubleshoot if you wish. But a comp/leak down would certainly be next.

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I was tired of working on it in the freezing rain, so I dropped it off at the local Subaru dealer for a compression check.

 

Bad news:

0 psi compression on #2 and the other cylinders are down @ 20 psi.

$4,000 - $4,500 to pull it all apart and fix what is most likely the valves according to the dealer's tech.

Sorry, not on a 190,000 mile engine.

Subaru doesn't offer re-manufactured engines either.

 

The dealer kept trying to talk me into a trade in, but I find the new Legacy to be fuggly compared to my '05....plus they look just like a Camry/Accord/etc .....zzzzz

 

Can anyone recommend someone who offers rebuilt 2.5L engines, or a Mid-Atlantic region Subaru knowledgeable machine shop that could rebuild the engine?

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Here you go. This looks pretty good to me.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...rt-217196.html

 

Hmmm....it appears that this thread MAY be closed. Give it a try.

 

Hi. Sorry to see another engine failure. JmP is right, I do still have a complete engine with 0 miles on it. I'm unsure why my thread was closed, I will find out. You can check my itrader on here, as well as on nasioc under username boost2the_moon_ej20.

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Sorry to hear turbo4joe. Did they also do a leak down test to actually know where it's loosing compression? In my case, doing a valve clearance was not that costly. I basically had to get my heads refreshed, buy 8 new buckets and a full gasket kit. Good time to also check your clutch, and tob condition. I also changed my oil pick up tube for piece of mind with a killerb.

 

Good luck.

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Here you go. This looks pretty good to me.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...rt-217196.html

 

Hmmm....it appears that this thread MAY be closed. Give it a try.

 

 

Thanks!

 

 

Hi. Sorry to see another engine failure. JmP is right, I do still have a complete engine with 0 miles on it. I'm unsure why my thread was closed, I will find out. You can check my itrader on here, as well as on nasioc under username boost2the_moon_ej20.

 

Hmmmm......That is a sweet looking engine.

 

I am very interested in your complete LGT engine.

 

I will PM you to exchange phone numbers.

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I was tired of working on it in the freezing rain, so I dropped it off at the local Subaru dealer for a compression check.

 

Bad news:

0 psi compression on #2 and the other cylinders are down @ 20 psi.

$4,000 - $4,500 to pull it all apart and fix what is most likely the valves according to the dealer's tech.

Sorry, not on a 190,000 mile engine.

Subaru doesn't offer re-manufactured engines either.

 

The dealer kept trying to talk me into a trade in, but I find the new Legacy to be fuggly compared to my '05....plus they look just like a Camry/Accord/etc .....zzzzz

 

Can anyone recommend someone who offers rebuilt 2.5L engines, or a Mid-Atlantic region Subaru knowledgeable machine shop that could rebuild the engine?

 

Pull the engine and take it apart to assess what the problems are. But getting a replacement engine from a junk yard that you go through is probably the cheapest option. Just make sure that you can get a compression test on it before you buy.

 

The down 20psi is no big deal, it can be just about anything from the weather that day to the punch of the battery and starter.

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I was tired of working on it in the freezing rain, so I dropped it off at the local Subaru dealer for a compression check.

 

Bad news:

0 psi compression on #2 and the other cylinders are down @ 20 psi.

$4,000 - $4,500 to pull it all apart and fix what is most likely the valves according to the dealer's tech.

Sorry, not on a 190,000 mile engine.

Subaru doesn't offer re-manufactured engines either.

 

The dealer kept trying to talk me into a trade in, but I find the new Legacy to be fuggly compared to my '05....plus they look just like a Camry/Accord/etc .....zzzzz

 

Can anyone recommend someone who offers rebuilt 2.5L engines, or a Mid-Atlantic region Subaru knowledgeable machine shop that could rebuild the engine?

 

Normally they tell you what compression it was making not what it was down.

 

You could determine if it's the heads vs rings prior to pulling. Get a comp test done elsewhere. Have them add a bit of oil into the cyl after your first figure. If the comp comes up it's rings, if it stays the same it's the heads. Typically speaking.

 

Replacing heads will be less costly though you'll have the motor out anyway.

 

Subi says you should make 140psi but I will only make about 125 on a new motor because we're at 4500 feet.

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Here you go. This looks pretty good to me.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...rt-217196.html

 

Hmmm....it appears that this thread MAY be closed. Give it a try.

 

John,

 

Would like to thank you again publically for keeping an eye out for two fellow lgt-ers.

 

Turbo4Joe is going to travel to CT from Maryland to pick up his bargain engine and a couple other parts this week.

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  • 6 months later...

I have 255k miles on the orig motor/trans. Rebuilt turbo at 250k.

 

I started having rough idle, then shaking at idle and at stops, then getting CEL P0302 - Cyl 2 Misfire. I did some troubleshooting; plugs, coil pack, couldn't solve it. Took it to a local shop and they did a compression test. Cyl 2 was 30 psi.

 

Note that the roughness smoothed out at highway speed.

 

There's lots of advice on pulling a compression and leak-down test and it's something we should do for these cars.

300k miles, BNR 16g, CryoTune, 'Bullet-Proofed' IC, Motor rebuild @ 250k b/c of a cracked exhaust valve. Original 5 EAT. Oil changed religiously @ 3,000 mi.
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I have 255k miles on the orig motor/trans. Rebuilt turbo at 250k.

 

I started having rough idle, then shaking at idle and at stops, then getting CEL P0302 - Cyl 2 Misfire. I did some troubleshooting; plugs, coil pack, couldn't solve it. Took it to a local shop and they did a compression test. Cyl 2 was 30 psi.

 

Note that the roughness smoothed out at highway speed.

 

There's lots of advice on pulling a compression and leak-down test and it's something we should do for these cars.

 

You got a lot more out of that car than you should have IMO.:lol:

250k before a turbo rebuild or any significant engine / trans problem is impressive for an LGT.

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Yea, I figure I got my money's worth! And the turbo didn't 'go', the problem was that it quit making boost.

 

After opening it up, saw the the wastegate bushing had walked out, making the flapper jamb open against the wall. The core had basically no play. But since I had it all apart and it had 255k, I wasn't going to put it back in. So I swapped out the CHRA and hot side and put it back in.

 

I talked about this with a Subie mechanic. He rolled his eyes and looked at the shop guy standing next to him and said, "See, you keep the oil changed and you have no problems with the turbo." I had told them earlier that I changed the oil every 3k miles.

 

Note that I had thought that rebuilding the turbo might have caused the skipping problems with the motor - worried the CHRA might have been shedding metal into the oil. I had performed a series of oil changes after install and felt it had plenty of chance to break in.

300k miles, BNR 16g, CryoTune, 'Bullet-Proofed' IC, Motor rebuild @ 250k b/c of a cracked exhaust valve. Original 5 EAT. Oil changed religiously @ 3,000 mi.
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