boxkita Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 squeal goes away when pads are at operating temp. In the case of track pads, the rotors could cook an egg in seconds. Mine would be >1000 degrees after a hard track session. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 rear kit is on. Took some finessing but pleased with the result. Still need to bed them in but I drove on them and didn't crash into anything. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin case Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 Such a beautiful sight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 now, we need to find a vendor to put together a GB on the full kit. :-) Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kits gt limited Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 That would be a great idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted October 25, 2013 Share Posted October 25, 2013 I am in for the GB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) More pictures. 1. Special 10 in. long end to end brake line. Probably could have used a straight, but I opted for a 45 deg. fitting on the end to fit the 90 degree NPT to 3AN fitting on the caliper. 2. Shot of the top of the bracket. 3. Brake pads line up nicely with the outer edge of the rotor. You can see the 90 degree brake line fitting the Wilwood kit comes with. 4. Clears stock wheels no problem. damn, I should have gone even bigger. I'd say the brake bias of this Dynapro kit matches nicely with the brakeswap 4 piston front kit with stock size rotors. Oh, and the overall pedal feel is amazing with fixed calipers all around. Edited May 2, 2014 by Th3Franz -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 th3franz, I have a couple of questions for you. If you had gone bigger, what caliper would you have choose? Do you have a detailed parts list, you would be willing to share? How do able is this setup? How much do you have invested into the rear brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 (edited) This is the Dynapro rear kit I bought. It's for the 02-05 WRX. Wilwood # 140-7006 The other option is to get the Forged narrow superlite rear kit, Wilwood # 140-12878. I chose the Dynapro to maintain front brake bias with the Wilwood 4 piston caliper with stock size rotor. If I upgrade the front to a true BBK 6 pot, then I would have gone with the larger Superlite kit. I bought the Dynapro kit from Eric at brakeswap for around $900 with the WRX line kit. The Superlite is also nearly double that, around $1600. I haven't gotten the bill from my mechanic yet who did the rear brake install, but I think it will be a few hours of labor for grinding the "ears", removing the dust shields, and machining the caliper to fit the allen head machine screws that sit flush. I worked with him on the install and figuring it out. I don't have a detailed parts list at this time, but the main thing is finding a company that can provide the 10 in long 3AN brake lines to work with the kit. I had mine done by a local race shop (Pegasus Auto Racing), so you could order lines from them also. They are not technically "DOT" but they pressure test each line they make and they are great quality, so I trust the lines. This setup is doable if you have a good grinder and access to a drill press. You need the drill press to countersink the holes on the caliper to fit the flat head allen screw so that it clears the upper part of the knuckle. With the larger Superlite kit, maybe the extra .75" diameter will help it clear, but I doubt it. So, total invested in just parts for the rear brake kit is $900 for the kit + $60 for the custom lines + $20 for additional hardware. Figure 3 hours or so in labor if you have all the tools available. If there's interest in a group buy, maybe we could order a bunch of kits, do the machining (we'd have to open the boxes), and then send them out. If I can find a source of "DOT-approved" brake lines with the correct length, then it would be pretty easy. Eric and I were trying to work with Technafit on this but they weren't being very responsive. Edited November 11, 2013 by Th3Franz -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Thank you for the info and for putting in the effort, time and money to try something new! One more question for you. I am not sure I understand the brake line issue. Why can't we run standard brake lines, technafit, goodridge etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 what's the difference between dot approved and Pegasus tested? Honestly, Pegasus tested seems better to me (I've bought from them) Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 If they are DOT approved, then the supplier has gone through the process to have the DOT certify the product and they would be able to put the yellow "DOT" tags on them. I think it's just paperwork. As long as the lines are tested and quality made, I don't see an issue with non DOT approved lines. We can't run standard brake lines because you need to have a 3AN end on one side to use the NPT to 3AN fitting the Wilwood caliper comes with. An alternative is to rethread the hole on the caliper to accept the banjo connection, but I didn't want to do this. The WRX lines are 14 in. long, so they are way too long for the Legacy. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 I was hoping to get away with reusing my goodridge lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 I had goodridge lines before too but had to change them. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhayward Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 The3Franz, nice work there! I was assembling parts for the same project, and ultimately left it with FW Motorsports in Rocklin, CA. They used a right-angle fitting as well, and had some trouble getting an adaptor to join at the OEM hoses. Also, they used the Legacy's own backing plates rather than the Impreza plates that I had machined per Wilwood's instruction. For authenticity - or rather, lack thereof! - I bought caliper decals from eBay and applied them both front and rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 I may be starting a group buy for rear kits. Post up if interested. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/wilwood-rear-big-brake-kit-potential-group-buy-219483.html?p=4695746 -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 So you lose the dust plates for the front brakes? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhayward Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Yes, they had to be removed because the rotors are much larger than stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Well, they're there for a reason, so I'll need a plan B. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 So you lose the dust plates for the front brakes? Well, they're there for a reason, so I'll need a plan B. they keep crap out of the back of your rotors, and they help with cooling. You can modify them to a smaller size. If you need more cooling, Pegasus sells connectors to allow brake cooling hose to attach to the plates. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 The brake swap wilwood kit with the stock sized rotors works well and you get to keep your dust shields SBT I just have always wanted a matching rear set Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskoolbiker Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 So I've had this Wilwood kit for a couple of year, and it does work great. However, I have a problem and I'm not exactly sure how to solve it. Heat! I've got the Willwood kit up front and Legacy GT brakes in the rear. I drive the car pretty hard at the track. I've been running in the advanced group and the last set of front rotors only lasted 4 days on the track. There is no issue with the rear setup. I just put a new set on and did track sessions and micro cracks were starting to form. I'm running Hawk DTC 60 pads and DBA Rotors. I also have RooDucts cooling ducts (photos of that setup earlier in this thread). I'm looking for what I can change? I almost think it's the reduced contact patch this caliper has on the rotor makes the rotor really heat up super hot and when it cools the cracks start. Do I get a bigger BBK like Stop Tech, or is it just the combination of pads / rotors? I attached a picture of one of my front rotors after 4 track days (approx 7 hours on track) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Have you checked your calipers to make sure the pistons are retracting. IIRC, there's no dust seals on the WW, and they're designed to be rebuilt after a few hard track days, so, in your case, a rebuild may be in order. Especially if you're going through pads and microcracking the rotors. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 So I've had this Wilwood kit for a couple of year, and it does work great. However, I have a problem and I'm not exactly sure how to solve it. Heat! I've got the Willwood kit up front and Legacy GT brakes in the rear. I drive the car pretty hard at the track. I've been running in the advanced group and the last set of front rotors only lasted 4 days on the track. There is no issue with the rear setup. I just put a new set on and did track sessions and micro cracks were starting to form. I'm running Hawk DTC 60 pads and DBA Rotors. I also have RooDucts cooling ducts (photos of that setup earlier in this thread). I'm looking for what I can change? I almost think it's the reduced contact patch this caliper has on the rotor makes the rotor really heat up super hot and when it cools the cracks start. Do I get a bigger BBK like Stop Tech, or is it just the combination of pads / rotors? I attached a picture of one of my front rotors after 4 track days (approx 7 hours on track) very interesting. My bet was on the quality of rotor itself but since the same issue goes on with DBAs maybe it is in fact inefficient use of rotor space by WWs. Heat plus actual clamping stress only on the upper part of the rotor may in fact produce those cracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskoolbiker Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 So literally the day after I posted my problem, a set of 332mm StopTechs came up for sale for $500, so I jumped on those. Not exactly sure how to check if the calipers were retracting, but a test of feeling the wheel for heat after normal street driving resulted in front and rear feeling about the same. I'd expect wheel to be really hot if they were dragging the whole time I was driving. Since I swapped over to the StopTechs, I'll be selling my old Willwood kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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