strykr Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Oh well. I can do it, but was hoping there might be another way rather than buying something I will only use once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris87 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 I realize this thread is nearly 4 yrs old, but I just have to comment. I have a 2008 Subaru Outback Wagon, with a 4 banger and a manual tranny. Ever since I got the car the stock shifter always seemed too tall. After my fiancee got an Acura TSX 6 spd manual last fall, my Subie transmission seemed even worse (we also have a '03 miata 6spd so the tall 5spd in the Outback really stands out when driving our cars). Anyhow, I was on the verge of ordering a real short throw shifter, most likely from Cobb, but they never answered an email I sent them to confirm that the Outback XT and mine had the same shifter. So fast forward to this week and I stumbled upon this thread. About 8 yrs ago (and long overdue at the time), I took a hacksaw to my '95 Nissan 200sx SE-R's shifter & put a Momo shifter knob w/ 3 screws to hold it in place, but since I picked up the Momo STI Subaru shift knob a while ago, I didn't want to give up the threads on the shifter in the Outback and have to buy a new shift knob. And even though I've used tab and die sets before at work and in my garage, it never occurred to me that I could cut in more threads in the stock shifter. If you're still reading... I can say that this mod took me about 2.25 hrs tonight (including set up / clean up), going really slow (using the carpenters motto of measure twice, cut once). It could have taken about an hour if I was rushing, or even less. Now my shifter feels exactly how I wanted it. Slightly shorter throws and the shifter knob is where it feels natural from an ergnomic perspective. Shifting action might require slightly more effort, but not much, if any. Definitely, definitely worth the $6 + tax the 12mm cutting die cost me from Ace Hardware! Thanks to the original poster and everyone else for this thread. I appreciate it. Saved me about $125 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strykr Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Just gotta say, this is probably the best decision I have ever made. Car drives infinitely better already. At least a 15hp gain . Thanks OP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 I wouldn't recommend it. The metal shavings would fall into the pivot and cause issues. It's really easy to get the shifter arm out. Use a magnet in a bag to catch the shavings. 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strykr Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Use a magnet in a bag to catch the shavings. Not a bad idea. for those of you (like me) without many tools, to get the flange off, I used my hacksaw to take off most of it, then filed down the little that was remaining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Cut corners if you want and run the risk..... but it takes 3 minutes to get the shifter arm out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjl0792 Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 best gain/time. bout a 1/2 hour. it fells much firmer. with the stock height it felt flexible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravengage Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I think I'm gonna give this mod a whirl on my factory-installed STi STS. It seems the concensus is that although a bit more torque is needed to put the stick into the proper gear due to the shortened lever arm, the shorter arc-length of throw & lower stick position overall is of greater benefit. Can anyone provide the link to the thread with a photo-essay on how to safely remove the shaft from the console & its linkages? I'd rather not mess that part up trying to perform this mod. Thanks all--I'll try to take photos as I go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtothe Spec B Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Without busting out MS paint for force balance drawings (I guess you never took a statics class, or even got very far in physics) think of it this way. Why the hostility? It's responses like yours that will deter people from taking the time to make outstanding posts like this one. Keep it to yourself man. I assure you, nobody cares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravengage Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 I think I'm gonna give this mod a whirl on my factory-installed STi STS. It seems the concensus is that although a bit more torque is needed to put the stick into the proper gear due to the shortened lever arm, the shorter arc-length of throw & lower stick position overall is of greater benefit. Can anyone provide the link to the thread with a photo-essay on how to safely remove the shaft from the console & its linkages? I'd rather not mess that part up trying to perform this mod. Thanks all--I'll try to take photos as I go! Well--I found it on my own. LOL Here's a link from MUD--first part is how to remove the shifter: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16708&highlight=kartboy+sts+install I'll try this as soon as I can find all appropriate tools. Details/photos to follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papp101 Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Did it. Loved it. Didn't even remove it, just dremeled it in the car with a cutoff wheel, then tapped it. Boo ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravengage Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 To those of you who have done this mod-- How did you secure the shaft while you ground down the flange? Did you vice grip over the existing threads? (Seems to me that wouldn't hold very well & you'd have to adjust it several times to turn the shaft in order to grind the backside of the flange....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 I put it in my bench vise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtothe Spec B Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Bench vise all the way. Run the tap down past the threads you're going to grab so you don't have to worry about getting it started after cutting and life will be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravengage Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 What part of the shifter did you guys grip in the vice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 The lower part of the stem... right above the rubber insert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I may be mechanically challenged (I really don't think so), but I could NOT get the tap to thread more than about 1/2 turn past the existig threads, an dI ended up stripping the stock threads. I ground down the shaft below the factory threads, but even my snap-on threader was unsuccessful. Patrick Looking for spacers or adapters to install aftermarket speakers in the doors of your Legacy? CLICK HERE or PM me! http://www.carstereoadapters.com./ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papp101 Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Are you sure you're using the correct tap? Have you used a tap before? You need tapping fluid and a lot of patience. Also, you should be tapping on a place where there are NO threads previously, i.e. a straight piece of round metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 It's not a tap. A tap is to cut threads in a hole.This is a DIE. A die is used to cut threads on a shaft. Just FYI. phenryiv1, I ground my shaft diameter down and then used a die to cut the threads. I only needed an 8" crescent wrench to turn the die.Turn it about 1/4 to 1/2 turn... then go back 1/2 turn. Repeat... each time going a little further down the shaft. Slow and steady wins the race... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Are you sure you're using the correct tap? Have you used a tap before? You need tapping fluid and a lot of patience. Also, you should be tapping on a place where there are NO threads previously, i.e. a straight piece of round metal. It was definately the proper die (I always get those names backwards), and obviously I was threading a section of the shaft that was not already threaded, but it butts against the existing threads. I did use cutting fluid, but I still F'ed it up somehow. Should I not have used the existing threads to give the die something to "push" against when cutting the new threads? Patrick Looking for spacers or adapters to install aftermarket speakers in the doors of your Legacy? CLICK HERE or PM me! http://www.carstereoadapters.com./ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 No.. you did it correct. You should thread the die over the existing threads.. then continue down the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravengage Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Phen--How did you grind the flange down? Is the area on the shaft where the flange was flush with the rest of the shaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 I ground the flange off the shaft with a bench grinder... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMF154 Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Anyone know if the STI shifter available from Subaru for the LGT is the same as the WRX STI shifter? A friend gave me his shifter from his 09 STI, wondering if i can swap that in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravengage Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 I ground the flange off the shaft with a bench grinder... I was wondering if Phen got his flange-grind flush with the shaft. If he didn't, that might be the cause of his re-threading troubles. JMF--I'm not sure. It's a good question. The stealership would probably know (quick phone call). Isn't the WRX STi a 6 MT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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