Mass Loaded Vinyl for soundproofing - very satisfied!

[Istvan_Sz]

As dr_sharp points out, they're easily found on the forum.

 

I searched 'vacation pix 2008':

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

Thank you guys for the replay.

I used the white bar under "Legacy Owners Association".

When dr_sharp pointed out the Search meny in the blue feeld I found much more.

 

Again, thank you guys for the help.

[dr_sharp]

Found about 80 sq. ft. of MLV today. If I have any leftover, I'll cut wicked deal to somebody on here.

[BlackHole]

I'm in IL. Where are you? Let me know, I'm looking for some MLV.

[BlackHole]

Wow - I'm driving around without an interior and it's amazing how much noisier the car is.

 

If your local Home Depot doesn't have the red tuck tape, you can use Tyvek sheathing tape which is essentially the same thing. About $10 a roll, and so far it looks like I'll only need one.

[JoeFromPA]

I'd be more curious if there are specific areas of the car that create the most interior volume.

 

I actually find the legacy to be very quiet in terms of WIND/air noises - a lack of rain gutters and a very nicely setup front windshield are my guesses as to why that is, despite the frameless windows.

 

However, I get a tremendous amount of road noise - partly due to the type of tire I have on.

 

If there are specific areas I can increase noise deadening, I might be interested in doing it. For example: under the back seats going down into the floor and in the floor pans of the front seats.

 

The one other thing I'll mention is that I feel, if noise is a concern, that the switch to more aggressive suspension bushings (specifically LCA) is going to introduce a significant amount of noise.

[BlackHole]

The large bulk of my noise seems to be from the trunk of the wagon with the key sources being (% of total noise perceived, street vs. highway):

1. 70% / 50% = exhaust (3" DP+mid, 2.5" Y to stock mufflers)
   
2. 20% / 20% = road / tire noise (% increases with speed)
   
3. 10% / 30%= wind (% increases with speed)
   
4. Barely noticeable = suspension noise (RCE T1 coilovers, bushings & braces everywhere)
   

Now this is without any interior. With the interior in, the suspension is more noticeable, but still the least of the sources. I suspect that just doing from the end of the factory carpet at the rear seats back to the trunk would be a significant improvement. Assembling / diassembling the trunk is pretty easy, especially compared with pulling the whole front carpet.

 

Just my $.02,

[BlackHole]

Duh moment - any place the factory puts a damper on the floor (see the first front floorboard picture in post #13) is probably a good place for more damping.

 

The toughest part of this install so far is removing the thick foam the previous owner had installed. I'm sure it's supposed to damp noise, but it doesn't.

[BlackHole]

Well, four months later the body is finished (no doors yet, but those are easy). Thanks again to the OP, this thread was invaluable during my damping installation. I ended up using B-quiet, 1/8" sheathing foam for the isolator, 1# MLV, and Tyvek tuck tape. All-in-all, I probably spent 12 hours total to do all of the damping, across multiple stages - from the back of the car to the front. My subjective evaluation:

 

Overall:

 

• Noticeably quieter interior and better sound quality.
  
• I now run -1 to -2 on stereo volume vs. stock, and need less mid and treble correction.
  
• The biggest challenge is removing and re-installing the carpet, seats and trim. The actual damping installation is pretty quick.
  
• Is it worth the $150 and 12 hours of labor (I'm slow and methodical) I spent to DIY? I'm on the fence and would have to think about it long and hard before trying again.
  

Notes:

 

• Doing the wagon trunk helped and is pretty easy.
  
• Doing the passenger compartment is a pain, but the difference is significant.
  
• Tyvek tape works ok, I wish there was something that stuck better to the MLV (Gorilla duct tape didn't stick at all).
  
• I found it easier to cut holes for mounting points with the trim / seats / etc. in place, since that provided some tension and took any slack out of the damping.
  
• I did have the elongate the rear seat center mount holes to fit - the added thickness of the damping threw off the front bolt alignment just enough to be a problem. Fixed by 2 minutes with a die grinder.
  

[Brock Samson]

Resurrecting this thread as I'm going to do some sound deadening in my wagon. I'm going to start with the trunk since access is so simple, then move on from there. I'm not excited about stripping the interior carpet, or removing and fuztzing with the door cards.

[Rhitter]

I have done it. It's not that hard. Just take your time and use baggies to label where you got everything. Time consuming is right. But it's not technically challenging and you don't have to contort in weird ways.

[digdug18]

I find this thread amusing myself, the OP adding weight after adding parts to increase Hp/Tq. He could've saved money and time keeping it stock.

[CDN 2.5i]

I find this thread amusing myself, the OP adding weight after adding parts to increase Hp/Tq. He could've saved money and time keeping it stock.

 

Different mods for different purposes. Both yielded great results.