mmoreau Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 Got a friend with a version 2 Access Port? If so update it to the newest firmware, unmarry from their car, marry to yours temporarily, and grab some datalogs of idle and acceleration. Sounds like a good place to start to me. I'll ask. I doubt he'll go for it though:mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 these cars don't have wires the blind leading the blind:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyBob Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I'll ask. I doubt he'll go for it though:mad: Lame friend! I do vote for taking it somewhere at least for a quick once over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 257 will hold more boost, better pistons, can't remember if the rods and crank are different. May not be worth the price difference if it is $600 or more, but, if a 257 shortblock is just a hair more than a 255, I'd go 257 with no hesitation. 257 has a slightly different shape piston... that's it. They cost about the same as well. One won't hold power any better than the other. They're both stock blocks. only other difference is which heads match up properly Aparently you missed the part where I said it did idle Yeah. Doesn't run. the blind leading the blind:lol: go change your wires, tell me how that goes My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 257 has a slightly different shape piston... that's it. They cost about the same as well. One won't hold power any better than the other. They're both stock blocks. only other difference is which heads match up properly Thanks for the clarification bro! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 257 has a slightly different shape piston... that's it. They cost about the same as well. One won't hold power any better than the other. They're both stock blocks. only other difference is which heads match up properly Doesn't run without the MAF. You're the one that told me to try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laverne Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 http://www.gruppe-s.com/Clearance/EJ25-SOHC-CABLE.jpghttp://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1650/541/29122770017_large.jpgthe blind leading the blind:lol: No wires??? welll not a distributor but wires??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Doesn't run without the MAF. You're the one that told me to try it. Dude, if you can't even tell people in a simple manner what is wrong, how do you expect anyone to help you. When you unplug the MAF, it puts it in a Speed Density based limp mode. You can take everything off up to the throttle body and it should run adequately. If this is not the case, then you have an issue with the MAP sensor or something is totally borked. If it idles with the MAF connected, especially if the idle is smooth, then you most likely don't have any large boost/vacuum leaks. When you say it dies, is this when you try to load it, or when you touch the pedal in N? No wires??? welll not a distributor but wires??? those aren't 2005 OBXT engine bays, now are they? My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyBob Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 No wires??? welll not a distributor but wires??? In the context of the discussion, mwiener2's correct. 2005+ turbo = no spark plug wires, so testing with the wire to ground method doesn't work. 3. Ignition Coil A: REMOVAL Direct ignition type has been adopted. Refer to “Removing Spark Plugs” for removal procedure. <Ref. to IG(H4DOTC)-4, REMOVAL, Spark Plug.> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Just out of curiosity... when you checked the timing belt were you checking the mark on the pulley or the dot on the actual sprocket? If it actually is off, it should be corrected before other stuff is tried. However i wouldn't think you would be able to start it like you were before if it was actually off by that much... Try checking your fuses/relays and make sure that they are not blown Try plugging the blow off valve's vacuum lines incase that's where the leak is, it should be able to idle ok without the blow off valve (assuming that's where it is). Also check your brake booster vacuum line, and any boost gauge lines that could be bleeding. Do you have a way to verify that you still have fuel pressure? Try checking that the in-tank filter(s) are not clogged Is there any way to verify that you don't have water/diesel/other crap in your gas like siphoning some into a clear bottle? Also.. you do have fuel in the tank right. Trying to throw some ideas you way... Hopefully the list of things to check/try is getting smaller :O\ Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 did you by any chance get soap on your front mount inter cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 Just out of curiosity... when you checked the timing belt were you checking the mark on the pulley or the dot on the actual sprocket? If it actually is off, it should be corrected before other stuff is tried. However i wouldn't think you would be able to start it like you were before if it was actually off by that much... Try checking your fuses/relays and make sure that they are not blown Try plugging the blow off valve's vacuum lines incase that's where the leak is, it should be able to idle ok without the blow off valve (assuming that's where it is). Also check your brake booster vacuum line, and any boost gauge lines that could be bleeding. Do you have a way to verify that you still have fuel pressure? Try checking that the in-tank filter(s) are not clogged Is there any way to verify that you don't have water/diesel/other crap in your gas like siphoning some into a clear bottle? Also.. you do have fuel in the tank right. Trying to throw some ideas you way... Hopefully the list of things to check/try is getting smaller :O Good luck Haven't truly checked the timing yet. All I did was check the mark on the crank pulley. I'm moving my car into our other garage today that's heated so I'll pull off the belts and look at the sprocket. I quickly checked the fuses, but I will recheck. Is there a way to check a relay? I will recheck vacuum lines as well. I checked my fuel pump, and when I disconnected the lines, I got some pressure relief spray from them, so there is fuel pressure at the pump. When I pulled my plugs, they were wet with gas, so I have to assume it's getting fuel. How do I check the in-tank filter? I was told it was a "non-serviceable filter" Bad fuel was a thought because I was so low when it happened, but after it died I putted about a mile go a gas station and filled it, so I think I can eliminate that too. Thanks for the suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 did you by any chance get soap on your front mount inter cooler? ?? No? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Newb My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I meant check the fuel pressure with a gauge if you had one readily available You can check the intank filter(s) by removing the fuel pump assembly there is the prefilter bag like thing and then the "non serviceable" one which should be attached to the pump I actually bought the pre filter bag thing last week but havent put it in yet... :O\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I highly doubt the fuel pump filter is clogged. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hops Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 did you by any chance get soap on your front mount inter cooler? Buy my cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Haven't truly checked the timing yet. All I did was check the mark on the crank pulley. Ugh... dude, the pulley has nearly nothing to do with the timing belt, aside from it is bolted to the crank shaft... Go look up how to check your timing, then check it, and then tell us what the results are. I don't want to see another post from you till you do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 way to deliberate My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hops Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 I still think you have a gasket or a vacuum leak... Buy my cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 When I pulled my plugs, they were wet with gas, so I have to assume it's getting fuel. Red Flag! Red Flag! My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Red Flag! Red Flag! yeah the engine sounds toast to me. i usually dont like being a dick but this whole thread kinda ticked me off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 Back to basics. Fuel, air, spark. we now know he has plenty of fuel My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sschmelcke Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 and we know the plugs are also gapped incorrectly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 ****** tits. That's awesome. P0113 and P0102 A code for an unplugged MAF and IAT sensor. The first code you posted (p0030) was an unplugged O2 sensor, which you seemingly needlessly replaced. I think your problem is that all your wires are unplugged. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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