custom_junky Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 ^^o now that's cool...never have to borrow a reader for this car ever again...thanks bro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2304577&postcount=10 ****** tits. That's awesome. P0113 and P0102 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 ****** tits. That's awesome. P0113 and P0102 Bad MAF. Try to borrow a friend's or go buy a new one. Hope that is the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 Bad MAF. Try to borrow a friend's or go buy a new one. Hope that is the problem. You're The second to tell me that. I'll roll with majority. I'll get one tomorrow and let you know. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Before buying a new one you can try checking the connector first or the wires to it eg: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine-modifications/110951-p0102-p0113-after-up-tbe-install.html Also... you didn't remove the MAF while you had the key to on did you...? (It could give a false code) Shrugs... i hope its something easy like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 have you tried starting it with the MAF unplugged yet? My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 How do you clear the codes that are in there? My battery was out before I checked, so a reset ECU doesn't clear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 have you tried starting it with the MAF unplugged yet? Yeah. Doesn't run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 Before buying a new one you can try checking the connector first or the wires to it eg: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine-modifications/110951-p0102-p0113-after-up-tbe-install.html Also... you didn't remove the MAF while you had the key to on did you...? (It could give a false code) Shrugs... i hope its something easy like that Yeah actually I realized it was unplugged. I'll check tomorrow afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 Plugged in MAF and both codes disappeared unfortunately. Back to square one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Plugged in MAF and both codes disappeared unfortunately. Back to square one. I'm back to my original guess then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Yeah. Doesn't run. you have a mechanical problem. you need to seek professional help My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 you have a mechanical problem. you need to seek professional help Sorry. I do my own work. Thanks for the suggestion though. That's what forums are for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 I'm back to my original guess then. You think it could be timing then? I'm with you.. Hopefully be checking that tomorrow. Thanks for the help and not telling me I need to take it somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 You think it could be timing then? I'm with you.. Hopefully be checking that tomorrow. Thanks for the help and not telling me I need to take it somewhere NP man. Excuse for a 257 shortblock? I think so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Sorry. I do my own work. Thanks for the suggestion though. That's what forums are for. Well you've proven how good you are that. Before you continue to drive your perfectly good (at least it was a few weeks ago) car into the ground, take it to someone who can fix it properly. And get the stock intake back on there till you are ready for a tune. If it jumped a tooth or two, it should still start and idle... rough, but still fire. If it jumped more than that, you borked your motor and that's why it won't start. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 NP man. Excuse for a 257 shortblock? I think so. Maybe. Unemployment frowns on stuff like that though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 what is a 257 gonna do that the 255 can't? besides run because it's not borked My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 what is a 257 gonna do that the 255 can't? besides run because it's not borked 257 will hold more boost, better pistons, can't remember if the rods and crank are different. May not be worth the price difference if it is $600 or more, but, if a 257 shortblock is just a hair more than a 255, I'd go 257 with no hesitation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 Well you've proven how good you are that. Before you continue to drive your perfectly good (at least it was a few weeks ago) car into the ground, take it to someone who can fix it properly. And get the stock intake back on there till you are ready for a tune. If it jumped a tooth or two, it should still start and idle... rough, but still fire. If it jumped more than that, you borked your motor and that's why it won't start. Aparently you missed the part where I said it did idle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Aparently you missed the part where I said it did idle I must have missed that part too. Do you hear knocking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 No. Seems to idle fine. Any throttle and it bogs and dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 That info changes everything. I'd still check the timing, might as well replace the timing belt while you're in there, it is almost due anyway, then, if that doesn't fix it, return to stock. If you do the timing belt, get new pulleys, and get a new tensioner also, it will save you head ache down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 I'll check timing hopefully tomorrow. In the meantime, if it's not timing...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyBob Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Got a friend with a version 2 Access Port? If so update it to the newest firmware, unmarry from their car, marry to yours temporarily, and grab some datalogs of idle and acceleration. Sounds like a good place to start to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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